By Lisa Variano

From the Brauerie Hurlimann A.G., the Swiss brewery famous for its heady high alcohol Samichlaus, comes what may best be described as a spring warmer, Caesarus.

With nearly twice the alcohol of most dopplebocks at 12.5%, the Caesarus exudes a deep warmth well balanced by a rich maltiness and a dry finish. Brewed with Pilsner and Munich malts and the addition of Hallertau and Super-Styrer hops, Caesarus Heller Bock is substantial enough to stand up to Bock beer's legacy as a liquid bread.

Lucy and Ethyl, beer judges extraordinare of The Beer and Tavern Chronicle evaluated the Caesarus for appearance aroma and flavor using their fifteen pint rating scale. Here are their comments.

A deeply golden brew with a compact sturdy head, the judges decided that it was an attractive beer and gave it three pints for appearance.

Of the aroma, Lucy declared along with the malt and pronounced alcohol she detected essence of Bit-O-Honey candy and Sugar Babies. Ethyl told her she was hallucinating because she had given up sweets but did agree that the aroma held a warm, honey like fragrance. Aroma was awarded four pints.

One taste was enough to convince the ladies that this was a beer brewed for sipping slowly. The luxurious malt flavor succeeded by a lengthy dry finish did not diminish the blood warming effects of this deceptively strong beer. Lucy said it could sure chase the chill of a spring evening from your bones. Ethyl likened the effects to those of her recent hot flashes. After a few more dainty sips the judges decided on four and one half pints for flavor.

After the ladies had finished their beer Lucy remarked that the warrior on the label had more muscles than the strong man at Coney Island. Ethyl proclaimed that it takes nearly as long to say Caeasrus Imperator Heller Bock as it does to drink one. She also said that it was obvious why this style of beer was consumed by monks during the Lenten fast, after a few you probably couldn't remember that you hadn't eaten in weeks anyway.

A thoroughly satisfying way to celebrate the arrival of spring Caesaurus Imperator Heller-Bock received an overall score of eleven and one half pints and the seal of approval from Lucy and Ethyl, who were last seen headed to the trailer for a nap.

appearance - 3 pints
aroma - 4 pints
flavor - 4 1/2 pints
total score - 11 1/2 pints