September, 1999

By Bobby Bush

We started this particular beer journey in Denver at Pint’s Pub. Probably the smallest brewpub in the Mile High City, this very-English pub was voted 1998’s Best Brewpub by the readers of Westworld, a local nightlife tabloid. Accompanied by a variety of piped-in music- from opera to bagpipes to Beatles -our fish ‘n chips lunch went down well with Pint’s Pub’s six house brews. The reddish-brown ESB-style Dark Star Ale and Lancer IPA, hoppy but not obnoxiously so, were the two cask offerings. The mild Phonebox Amber, hoppy Airedale Pale Ale, creamy headed Alchemy ESB and Scottish Export style, i.e. malty sweet, Gael Force Ale were entirely quaffable.

Pint’s Pub also features an extensive list of imports, including several Fullers ales, Felinfoel, Newcastle, Guinness, Boddington Pale Ale and Tennent. And, as if there wasn’t enough going on in this small bar, the single malt scotch whiskey menu features over 100 different choices, including one at $65 per shot. Pint’s claims to have the largest selection in the US.

Leaving imports and whiskeys behind, but departing with fond memories of the smooth Dark Star, we left, in search of another Denver brewpub.

It’s hard to believe that a city as profoundly versed in craft beer as Denver is- 15 brewpubs, not counting suburbs or microbreweries -would have room for one more. But there, in the southside warehouse district not far from Breckenridge Brewery’s microbrewery/keg/bottle operation, we found a brand new brewpub. Heavenly Daze Warehouse Brewery & Bar is a sprawling complex incorporating two dining areas, a long bar, a 30 barrel brewing system and a 1962 vintage bottling line that perviously packaged olive oil.

Open since June 1998, there are 14 televisions, four Ventura pro pool tables and nine most excellent brews. But let’s review a little history before the fun. Named for a ski run that terminates at the brewpub, the original Heavenly Daze opened in 1991 in Steamboat Springs, CO. Owned by the Crider brothers, sibling Pete is responsible for the Denver franchise. His brewer is Rick Whitehouse, who formerly worked as brewer for Breckenridge. Rick was pushed for time, but spent a few minutes talking about his brewery and beers. With an annual capacity of 7,000 barrels and nine fermentation tanks, he has plenty of capacity to be creative. The seasonal Winter Heat Strong Ale, which revealed strong alcohol power (9% by volume) and biting sweetness, is a Belgian-style ale boosted by 350 pounds of candi sugar in the boil. Whitehouse keeps three yeasts in propagation, which assists in style flexibility.

Other Heavenly Daze beers proved just as enticing. Thin but flavorful, Sunrise Rye Ale was golden clean, departing with short bitterness. Crafted from five malts, wheat and oatmeal, Colorado Cream Ale presented a fruity body and sweet finish. The quick berry taste of Raspberry Wheat evolved into a nasty koolaid aftertaste, while the Munich Red left a suggestive burnt caramel flavor. The six malt recipe of Dogs Breath Brown was balanced by proper hopping. Steamboat Scottish was out-of-balance, decidedly too malty and marginally medicinal. Back on track, Paramount Porter was medium- medium body, medium roast flavor, mildly bitter with a tinge of harshness mid-taste. Though dry-hopped, Backpacker IPA could have used more bittering and hops flavor. All-in-all, good beer, definitely something for everyone.

Only time will tell if Heavenly Daze can make it on the low-traffic south side of Denver. My fingers are crossed.

[Note, both Heavenly Daze closed in late 1999. The Denver brewpub re-opened in mid-2000 with new owners].

We had time for one more quick stop before heading to higher elevations. Just because we hadn’t been there in a while, downtown’s Rock Bottom Brewery was our destination. Open since November 1991, this Rock Bottom was the Boulder-based chain’s first out of town brewpub venture. Back about 1994, I noticed a de-emphasis in beer and deterioration of beer quality. I’m happy to report that brewmaster Debbie Svoboda seems to have a better grip on the brewing side. Her cask Pale, though colder than it should have been, was cloudy gold and brimming with pale ale taste. In comparison, the Falcon Pale Ale was thinner and less hoppy, just what was expected. Black Diamond Stout was also a winner; rich, full bodied and roasted flavor, close to Imperial style and close to perfection.

This article first appeared in Focus, a weekly paper published in Hickory, North Carolina.

© Bobby Bush