Yankee Brew News Archive

New England Winner Responds to GABF Medal Drought Controversy

Originally Published: 06/97

YBN Letters

New England Winner Responds to GABF Medal Drought Controversy

Dear YBN:

I am writing in response to Kerry Byrne's recent article "GABF Medal Drought Leaves New England Brewers Leery" which ran in the February - March edition of Yankee Brew News. However, before I respond, I would first like to recognize my brewing staff for their accomplishment in receiving a Gold Medal for Munich Gold at the Great American Beer Festival this past September. I am thankful to have such a talented and dedicated staff of brewers led by Scott Hutchinson, Dan Cahill and Gerry O'Connell.

Throughout the article several issues were presented surrounding the lack of medals earned at GABF by N.E. - this in contrast to the many medals earned by California (19) and Colorado (22), not 23 as reported in Mr. Byrne's article. Although the "hometown advantage" theory sounds plausible, under closer scrutiny this theory falls apart. Before continuing I should point out another reporting error in Mr. Byrne's article. The Institute for Brewing Studies is not the organizer of GABF. Brewing Matters Incorporated is the organizer.

If GABF were held in different areas throughout the country there might be an advantage for local brewers. However, it is a fallacy of logic to infer that because the convention is held in a particular region local brewers will dominate the medal hunt. If this were true N.E. brewers had better hope GABF is never held in California -- with their track record and the hometown advantage, there will be no medals left for us poor souls from the East to win.

A still greater fallacy is to believe that GABF would not insist that local brewers conform to the same drop off and shipping deadlines as the remainder of the nation's brewers. It is irresponsible to report that "Colorado breweries can bring their beer two days before the show" while the rest of the American brewing community must package and ship one month in advance of the competition. This is particularly irresponsible when there is no indication that festival organizers were given an opportunity to respond to this specific allegation.

Let's assume that this allegation is true. Then Alaskan Brewing Company has achieved a remarkable feat. This past year ABC received a medal at GABF for the tenth consecutive year. No "hometown advantage" there. ABC shipped their beer farther than any other brewery in the country. Even more impressive is that ABC earned not one but three medals at GABF last September. Go figure. Additionally, ABC is one of only two breweries to have medalled in each of the ten years since GABF instituted Professional Panel Blind Tasting (PPBT).

Prior to PPBT, medals awarded to brewers may have been the "crap shoot" as described in Mr. Byrne's article. I wonder if Tim Morse's response would have been worded any differently had Harvard's or U. Station received the only gold in New England. Of course these breweries would have had to first enter the competition before they could actually earn a medal. Their absence at GABF seemed not to be an issue for Mr. Byrne, but I can assure you that if these breweries had entered, their chances of earning a medal at the "crap shoot" would have significantly improved.

Additionally, I have yet to meet a brewer who did not attend GABF because they felt they could not win based on shipping distance or fear of regional biases. Speculation does not constitute fact. GABF takes all competitors on a first come, first serve basis. How many N.E. brewers simply missed the deadline? I know of 3 myself.

N.E. placed 78 different products into a competition pool of 1,448 beers (5.4%). Assuming each beer entered has an equivalent chance of earning a medal, then N.E. came up short. Statistically, we should have earned 6 medals instead of 2. By this same logic Colorado and California combined should have earned 38 medals instead of 41. A few medals here or there and the numbers come out right on the money. Scary isn't it?

To further clarify: Colorado sent 76 breweries to GABF (400% more than N.E.), California sent 72. Combined these states accounted for 41% of all breweries at GABF and 34% of all competing beers. Sure they won a lot more medals than we did, but they also entered a lot more beers. Am I going slow enough for you Mr. Byrne? For the record N.E. sent 19 breweries to GABF not 22: Massachusetts (11), Vermont (3), Maine (2), New Hampshire (1), Connecticut (1) and Rhode Island (1).

The most compelling information which I gleaned from Mr. Byrne's article was his stunning revelation of the "Ringwood factor." Are the judges biased? Is there some kind of conspiracy? Was there indeed a second shooter in the grassy knoll? Spare me the drama of the unnamed source. Some mysteries will never be solved, but I think I can help answer a few questions concerning Ringwood yeast.

First of all this yeast strain is about as special as getting a sharp stick in the eye. Its ability to ferment beer in 7 to 8 days is nothing unique. I challenge any brewer to recirculate a fermenter with non-Ringwood yeast. I'll guarantee that they'll have the same high quality beer after 8 days as those using the Ringwood. What their beer will lack is the maturation that only additional aging can provide. Even the most novice of brewers will tell you that beer made in 8 days just doesn't taste as good as beer that has been properly aged. Time is an ingredient in any high quality beer.

The majority of Ringwood breweries perform what is called a forced fermentation where the primary fermenter is constantly recirculated. This is done to ferment the beer faster. One result of this mechanized fermentation is the production of those "distinctive buttery notes" as described in Mr. Byrne's article. Those notes are a compound known as diacetyl. Although some diacetyl is acceptable at very low levels in certain beer styles, no beer should be dominated by this compound. While Mr. Byrne's unnamed source might believe diacetyl to be character, the truth of the matter is that diacetyl is a flavor defect in beer and is recognized as such all over the world -- even here in New England.

As the head of brewery operations, I am proud of each of my brewers and of our collective accomplishment. After reading Mr. Byrne's article I am disappointed with his irresponsible journalism. A Gold Medal is what it is - recognition of a superior beer in a particular category. Nothing more. Nothing less.

Tony Vieira

Director of Brewing Operations

Brew Moon Restaurant & Microbrewery

...And a Past GABF Medal Winner and Judge Replies

Dear YBN:

In response to Tony Vieira's letter on Kerry Byrne:

Tony, Tony, Tony. What the hell is going on up there on the Moon, anyway. You had oughta lighten up, man. Kerry Byrne's article on brewers who didn't win the only gold medal in New England may have been a bit sweeping, and a bit like sour grapes, but your tome seems like an overreaction. It's not like anyone cast aspersions on the lunar brewing that you do. In fact, if nobody else in New England could win, that makes you guys look pretty good.

As a participant in the Great American Beer Festival on and off since 1988, past medal winner, and Professional Panel Blind Tasting (PPBT) judge, I find it particularly distressing that my comments to Mr. Byrne are being portrayed as those of a disgruntled non-winner. I done already won. Twice. My comments about the judging reflect some of the practices of the PPBT in the late '80s. In those days, a beer could be placed in a different category than the one that was entered. We won a medal in a different category than we entered, and I was confused, but pleased.

The PPBT no longer makes these decisions, allowing the judges to make the final cuts on beer styles. And that was my point, that the judging changes year to year, allowing for brewer comments to be integrated into the program. It looks like that was left out of the article, which is not my call, obviously. How Mr. V equates observations about judging practices to unbridled envy is beyond me.

The judging can sometimes be confusing to outsiders, but that's life. PPBT takes great measures to ensure impartial, professional judging. All 1996 judges were convened before the event last year to share their concerns and recommendations. We don't all agree on everything. The GABF expects that.

Furthermore, I have repeatedly told brewers over the years that if you go to Denver expecting a medal, it's a crap shoot, because you never know how a particular panel will review your beer. I don't think a comment like that detracts from the brewers who win. The beers that do win are the best beers at that panel. You can be sure of that.

Finally, whether we enter or not, I still have reservations about how things proceed and how things wind up. I find it hard to believe that there are judging sessions where no medals are awarded. Over two years ago I recommended to the PPBT an arbitration panel for awarding medals when a panel is deadlocked. That's well before the only gold medal in New England landed on the Moon.

Also, the next time you feel the urge to settle a score with a beer writer who panned your beer, leave me out of it.

Brewing for a better America,

Tim Morse

Director of Brewing Operations

John Harvard's Brew House

In Defense of F.X. Matt

Dear YBN:

In reply to Steve Farrell's letter in the last issue of YBN regarding "Koch had it coming?" I take exception to his comment that FX Matt is a "substandard beer factory".

FX Matt makes some of the finest beers at a most reasonable price: their Saranac Line. The Saranac Pale Ale, Amber and Black and Tan are not substandard by any means.

Nor do I think that the beers that Matt contract brews are substandard. Ever had a Brooklyn Lager or Brooklyn Brown? I don't consider them as substandard and they are made in Utica!

Rather than calling Matt a "poseur" I would argue that they helped the craft brewing industry (and of course themselves) by brewing on contract. Brooklyn for one, wouldn't be in existence without Matt.

I wonder if Mr Farrell has tried any of the Matt's products, whether its Saranac line or its contract brews.

Kieran O'Connor

koconnor@cnyric.org

Syracuse, New York USA