Yankee Brew News Archive

Brewpub Review: John Harvard's Brewhouse

Originally Published: 12/96

By: Bob DiCesare

The legend of John Harvard has spread to the Metrowest section of Massachusetts in the form of a new brew house. John Harvard's Brew House at Shopper's World in Framingham opened in September and is targeting a customer much like the ones who visit its Cambridge hot spot in Harvard Square.

"We had so much business coming to Cambridge from this area, it became a natural," said co-owner Grenville Byford. "Plus, this area has produced 2 million square feet of retail space in the last three years. Framingham is where it's happening. There's a lot of retailers and shoppers who are looking for honest food and real beer."

Honest food and real beer are slogans at John Harvard's Brew House. They also happen to be a taste of reality. Brian Sanford is the head brewer in Framingham after the past one and a half years as head brewer at John Harvard's in Harvard Square. Sanford plans to keep eight beer/ale selections readily available on tap here. They include Light Lager, Pale Ale, Nut Brown Ale, "AAA" Gold, and Raspberry Red Ale from the year-round group, a Porter and Irish Stout on an alternating basis, and two special seasonal draughts.

"We have extra space and a few extra tanks here," said Sanford, "so we'll be able to sneak in a few extra choices. We run six (taps) in Cambridge, but we'll run eight here."

One of his first special recipes for the new location was a Harvest Spice Ale with a hearty blend of cinnamon and nutmeg. For autumn, Sanford is putting out a stronger, malty Octoberfest Amber Lager. Right now, he is making a Mid-Winter Strong Ale which is 8.5 percent alcohol. Sanford will also present an Imperial Stout in December.

Other seasonal selections on a rotating basis include: Old Willy IPA, German Alt, Rye Beer, Export Stout, Celtic Strong Ale, Big Bad Bock, Harvard Hefe-Weizen, Smokin' Joe's Lager, and Cristal Pilsner. John Harvard's also has one of its beers always served as a traditional English cask-conditioned or cask-style beer.

"The whole point of this concept is to have a range of beers," said Byford. "So far, I'd say we have an educated consumer here," said Sanford. "Right now, we're trying to cover all the of the spectrum. We already know that the Pale Ale is the biggest seller in Cambridge."

For dining pleasure, John Harvard's offers a rather simple menu, but with a robust style. In addition to some of the more traditional appetizers everyone's come to expect, John Harvard's features fried mushroom fritters, roasted or grilled portabello mushroom, and house-made, grilled sausage skewers.

"Brew House Classics" include old-fashioned chicken pot pie, grilled meatloaf with mashed potatoes, beer-battered fish and chips, and slow-cooked chunky beef and bean chili. There are also chicken, ribs, steak, and salmon entrees available, burgers and sandwiches, and a harvest of seasonal salads.

"The chefs and brewers have a certain amount of freedom to do their thing," said Byford, who also has two John Harvard's in Atlanta, Georgia and one at Union Station in Providence, Rhode .Island. "If what they do is what people like, then I have no problem with it."

"Our success will be made by two groups of people -- the staff and the customers. We want to be a friendly neighborhood place where everyone is content and leaves their own stamp on the place."