One of downtown Providence's most
thirst quenching attractions today, Union Station Brewery offers that
perfect place to catch a pint even if your not catching a train. Situated along
the Waterplace Park and Riverwalk of the Woonasquatucket River, the brewpub is
an easy walk from the downtown Civic Center, Convention Center, government
offices, and public transportation systems such as busses and AMTRAK. Neon beer
signs just above ground level offer the first signs of something different
inside. A small outdoor patio area is open during warm weather and offers
seclusion from surrounding downtown activities. Inside, a merchandise counter
showcases the brewery paraphernalia available, with some items on display
across the walls of the lounge area. A few tall wooden tables stand adjacent to
an interior stone wall and accompanying flower pots. Ground level seating
features a dozen dark wood tables and chairs surrounded by red brick walls and
drop-down lights and fans from the 15 foot dark grey textured beamed ceiling. A
long Mahogany bar offers a clear view of the nearby copper brew kettles and
stainless steel tanks. Two chrome tap towers host eight long ebony tap handles,
with the single handle of a beer engine along side. Smoking is allowed in most
of the building and cigars are even sold behind the bar. The far left side of
the room offers a raised non-smoking area decorated with framed black &
white prints of the turn-of-the-century brewing scene. A large Naragansett Ale
painting is especially unique. Toward the rear of the building three shiny
serving vessels are visible in their coldroom, all labeled with incredibly
large Surgeon General Warning notices.
The food menu is very popular
with the downtown office crowd, where lunch entrees such as burgers, Fish &
Chips and Spent Grain Pizza run $7 to $9. Appetizers range from $2 to $6 and
include calimari, wings and homemade chili. Monthly "brewer's dinners" provide
a special four-course meal for $35. At the light end of the beer spectrum, the
Northern Lager Light comes in at 3.4% and is a clear light gold color
with pronounced carbonation, a soft mouthfeel, mellow light hops-over-malt
flavor in a light-bodied brew. The Golden Spike Ale, at 5.4%, is a clear amber
color with a nice hop flavor where the underlying malt asserts itself before
the hops reappear in the finish. Very nice! The IPA is a clear amber
with a medium body, nice rich malty flavors, and a subdued hoppiness. The
Cask-Conditioned IPA offers a very light body with its flavor balance
hoppy and on target. This smooth brew is pulled from the keg via beer engine at
room temperature and is "easy drinking." The Oktoberfest is a clear dark
amber color with a rich, sweet malty flavor and dry finish. The hazy brown
Dunkelweizen comes in at 5.1% with its distinctive sour/lactic
character. The 5.2% Velvet Stout features a rich roasted aroma along
with a light body, lasting lace, and slightly roasted flavor. The
Cask-Conditioned Porter is also standard fare. A wooden sampler tray features
seven four-ounce tastes for $6.
Open since 1993, Union Station is
a member of the John Harvard family of brewpubs. The lack of mega beers and the
silent TVs show that this establishment wants to stand out from the crowd, even
among the downtown bars that offer import and micro beers. Framed local awards
from media popularity polls such as the Best Of Rhode Island Competition
highlight the business' achievements. Although the pervasive steps may look
daunting at first, the facility is fully wheelchair accessible, seating 205, it
offers something for everyone who appreciates quality beer.
Reviewed by Tom Ciccateri - September, 1999
Union Station Brewery
36 Exchange
Terrace
Providence, Rhode Island
401-274-2739
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