
As the German-style name
implies, the Brickskeller is a "celler-based" establishment. Three
blocks from the Dupont Circle stop on the Metro's Red line, the entrance
includes multiple steps up from the sidewalk, a sharp turn away from the hotel
entry way, and a drop down windy steps to the basement bar. Past the very small
bar are dozens of red and white checkerboard tableclothed wooden tables. Most
in the smoking area but a few are slightly isolated nearby and designated as
non-smoking. The red brick walls reinforce the "cellar" ambiance, with brown
stone tile floors below the lightly lit walls holding framed American beer
posters. Rows of Antique American beer cans ring the room in enclosed displays.
10 feet above is the black tiled ceiling that conveys a sense of seclusion.
Visible through the smoky dining room are rows of lighted cans and bottles,
mounted on the dark wooden walls that are illuminated by electric "glowing"
lanterns. Even the wooden jukebox fits right in with the decor.
The claim to fame is the beer selection, all bottled, and it
is well-deserved. The Heurich's Spring Fogg bock beer from Wild Goose
Brewery (Cambridge, Maryland) is a dark amber color with a cream-colored
head, malty aromas, a full body, nice mouthfeel, very malty flavor, and
slightly alcoholic but very clean finish. The Wild Goose IPA is a clear
amber color with a light hoppy, perfumy aroma, medium body, and a good serious
hops-over-malt flavor. The Blue Ridge Hempen Ale (Charlottesville, VA)
is a clear dark amber color with a tangy/malty flavor, full mouthfeel, medium
body with a mellow hop bitterness and underlying malty but crisp finish. The
Clipper City IPA (Baltimore, MD, www.clippercity.com) is a clear amber
color with a sherry-like aroma, medium body, full mouthfeel, and very malty
flavor.
By January 2002 the beer list featured over
1100 bottled beers and produced the boast on the menu cover of "The World's
Largest Selection of Beer." The Schlenkerla Urbock is a dark
brown color with a big aroma - smoky and malty. The slight early hops are
immediately overpowered by the solid malty sweetness of this full-bodied brew,
where a mellow smokiness is present throughout. The 7.5% Chouffe
Biere de Mars is a dense dark straw color with a thick white head.
Following the mellow, estery aroma is a very pale malt flavor with an almost
citrusy, tangy character. A smooth mouthfeel and medium body are well matched
to the array of non-assertive flavors (dinkel and woodruff) and the final
alcoholic finish. The 7.2% medium-bodied Mahr's Weisse Bock is
light brown, with a very slight sourness matched to a smooth malty sweetness.
The Aventinus Wheat Dopplebock, at 8%, is brown in color and
topped by a white head. With plenty of carbonation, the creamy mouthfeel brings
out a malty flavor with just a hint of dark malts and lactic sourness. The
mellower beers pair well with the $5.95 Belgian Trappiste Cheese Board that
includes Chimay Grand Cru, Chimay Aged Vieux and Pere Joseph. Our extremely
well informed beer server, John, reports that two tap beers and one cask are
available every Friday and Saturday. Monthly beer diners and guest speakers are
announced on the Website and the email list.
Considering the number of smokers and the extremely high
summertime humidity, the Brickskeller does a great job of keeping the air
quality very high. For a great selection of beers and the most fried French
Fries imaginable, make it a point to stop by the Brickskeller.
Brickskeller
1523 22nd St. NW
Washington, DC
(202)293-1885
www.thebrickskeller.com
Reviewed by
Tom Ciccateri - August 1997 & January 2002