Even in a city the size of Antwerp some beer
cafés stand apart from the the rest, and Kulminator is one of
those. Two levels hold a half-dozen tables while the small bar accommodates
another 10 stools. Wicker chairs are paired with untreated wood tables that
look as rugged as their dark wood walls, ceiling, and floor. Street-side
windows support the inside plant life and candles at each table make for a cozy
setting. Three rows of glassware stand on display above the bar, surrounded by
beer mirrors and signs. Shelves behind the Z-shaped bar display the bottled
beer selection while a guest book lies open nearby where visitors can see who
else has stopped by recently. Plan to sit and stay a while, since the beer menu
is over a half-inch thick and contains some rarities not found elsewhere.
The Echte Kriek is opaque with an intense
fruity/estery aroma. The flavor starts cherry-sweet, goes cherry-tart, and then
finishes sharply puckering. This impressive brew has a light body that supports
a thick tan head but only a slight mouthfeel along with a dry finish. The
bottle-conditioned St. Benoit Blond from da Bocq comes in at 6.5%
and appears a hazy gold with a wheaty aroma, thin body, and sweet wort-like
flavor. Unfortunately most of the mouthfeel seems the result of the
carbonation. The Timmermans Kriek arrives in a dusty 75 cl bottle that
heightens anticipation. Pouring a clear red, the ample carbonation generates a
continuous stream of bubbles. The flavor seems balanced toward sweet cherry
with all the requisite lambic yeast characteristics along with a slightly
tartness and smooth finish. Don't miss this one! The 1998 Stille Nacht
from De Dolle Browers is an 8% brew "Met Honig en Kandij" (with honey
and candy sugar). Red in color, the aroma begins the taste experience with
esters and a deep rich malty character. Medium-bodied but with a full
mouthfeel, the flavor consists of a very mellow maltiness, some fuitiness, and
noticeable alcohol. The 9 year old Bockor Oude Burin (33 cl) is a dark
brown with a rich malty aroma, thin body, very dry malty flavor that borders on
cherry-like before finishing dryly. The Liefmans Goudenband (75 cl), at
8%, is a clear ruby color with a rich malty and yeasty aroma. With an
effervescent mouthfeel, its tartness dominates the malt in both the flavor and
aftertaste. The 6.2% Paranoia has a freshness date of 12/99 on its neon
green and pink label. The grassy, chlorophyll-like aroma is matched with a
gripping seaweed flavor with a distinctly non-malt sweetness. Remaining behind
in the glass after the beer is consumed is a similarly colored residue of
questionable origin. The '87 Frambozen bier Van der Linden (75 cl) is a
7% brew costing 300 BEF (~$9 USD). Clear red in color, it has little
carbonation, a strong raspberry aroma along with an even flavor balance that is
neither sweet nor tart but offering an incredible synergy of of smooth
raspberry and malt flavors. The Kriek de Neve is a dark amber with
complex flavors moving between dry, sweet and estery.The Kulminator is clearly a world class beer experience. The
two very attentive servers are experts at the pour and offer all the 75 cl
bottles in angled wicker baskets designed to leave behind yeast sediment from
the bottle-conditioning process. Unbelievably, it is not even crowded on a
Saturday night and chain-smokers are are actually in the minority. Prices range
from 65 to 600 BEF, about $1.75 to $17 USD, and credit cards are not accepted.
Snacks include cheese and salami. Hours are posted as Mo 8:30 - 11:30, Tu-Th 12
- 11:30, Fr 12 - 1, Sa 5 - 1, and closed Su. With hundreds of beers on hand,
some more than 15 years old, it is easy to loose one's self in the classical
music and continue a tasting journey of incredible beers throughout the
night.
Reviewed by Tom Ciccateri - March
1998
Kulminator
32
Vleminckveld
Antwerp, Belgium
Tel. 03 232 4538
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