The new digs are quite an improvement over the
"Frakenbrew" system put together by Tom Hennesy years ago to sucessfully quench
the thirst of Albuquerque "beer cafe" patrons. The spacious layout just off
Interstate 25 in the middle of Albuquerque now hosts a 7-barrel Century
stainless steel system that supplies four Il Vicino establishments: Il Vicino
Albuquerque Nob Hill, Il Vicino Albuquerque Northeast Heights, Scallo
Restaurant Albuquerque, and Il Vicino Santa Fé. The system had
previously produce top-notch beers for the owners of the failed Rio Bravo
Brewpub. Once again demonstrating that great beer alone cannot create a
successful business. At the helm of this reconfigured brewing setup is Jason
along with his trusty brew-slave Bill McDonald. Together they crank out 28 to
35 barrels a week on the 7 bbl stainless steel Century system to keep the
corporate accounts supplied with the four standard beers. Lacking a mill of
their own, the brewers receive pre-ground malts in sacks and lug everything
from receiving dock to storage area to mash tun. The spartan operation requires
all keg filling and cleaning to be done by hand. Grundys are used as
conditioning tanks and they continue to be an educational experience for the
brewhouse staff. Recently one demonstrated the real-life significance of the
physics equation "f=m*a". The unscheduled event left a Grundy top cover
embedded in the ceiling of one of the two coldrooms and a permanent telltale
bulge that will entertain brewery tour visitors for years to come.
While demand is good for business it puts pressure on the brewer,
where filtering is shunned in lieu of finings that require a fixed amount of
time to clarify the beers. Plans call for an Il Vicino restaurant location in
Tulsa to join in March a like-named restaurant in Wichita in receiving Il
Vicino beers brewed by Brady at the Colorado Springs location. This last year
has seen significant changes in the makeup of the partners who control the
destiny of Il Vicino. Many people are watching for signs of where this
innovative craftbrewing operation is heading as we begin the 21st century.
Hopefully the Forth of July celebration at Salida, Colorado will once again
offer the opportunity to relax in a majestic setting and sample multiple beers
for the three Il Vicino operations in New Mexico and Colorado.
2001 saw some changes at the brewery, with
Brady McKeown assuming the role of head brewer and Doug Cochran enlisting as
the faithful assistant brewer. The addition of a dedicated front tasting room
and small, mostly covered, outdoor patio with bench seating helps draw
customers who sample a pint or two before refilling their growlers on the way
home. The five-place bar offers cushioned stools along the wall of the cozy,
well-lit room. The beige and gold color scheme, along with the track lighting
make for an inviting place to stop by and have a chat with the brewers over a
cold one. The chalkboard menu announces the available beers while the 35 mugs
of the Mug Club members max out the available wall space and cause a waiting
list of those wanting to fork over $30 per year for the convenience of having
their own drinking vessle always within a few feet of the tap handles. Light
Rock & Roll music provides the background, with the mini-TV usually silent.
New prices are $2.75/pint, $6 for a growler refill, $40 + deposit for 5
gallons, and $120 for a 15.5 gallon 1/2 barrel keg. Look for the new
Tap-a-Draft systems that use horizontal polycorbonate vessels and CO2 bulbs to
provide convenient draught beer to-go for refrigerator dispensing right at
home. Prices run $35 initially and $18 for the hefty refills. At 875 barrels,
2001's production has surpassed the previous year's and allows for new draught
accounts. Look for Il Vicino beers on tap at two new Albuquerque
locations: Milagro and Johny's.
The Amber is clear amber in
color, with a caramel/malty flavor, supporting hop bitterness, and a dry hoppy
finish. The Joe's Stout pours with a creamy nitrogen-blessed head. This
light-bodied brew is very easy-drinking and offers a clean, dry finish. Due to
its nitrogen dispensing requirements, it is available elsewhere only at the Il
Vicino Nob Hill location. The Malpais Porter is medium-bodied, with a
dry flavor that empahasizes its black malt character. The Blonde Ale is
a clear pale straw color with a crisp and clean pale malt flavor. The addition
of flaked corn and dry pilsner malt also contributes to the resulting crisp
character.
Reviewed by
Tom Ciccateri - February 2000 and December 2001
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Il Vicino Brewing
4000A. Vassar Dr.
NE
Albuquerque, NM 87107
505-830-4629
www.ilvicino.com
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