A narrow opening between
two old brick buildings along the main street of Lawrence, Kansas is now home
to Free State Brewing Company. At the turn of the century trolley
passengers used board here under cover from weather that only OZ residence can
truly appreciate. The weathered upper façade looks unimposing amidst the
rows of beige brick buildings but beneath it the front wall composed of all
windows allow passers by to peer into the very modern open and airy interior.
The second story seating offers a view foreword of drivers hopeless looking for
parking as well as one rearward to stainless steel serving tanks and stacked
grain bags poised over the glass-walled brewhouse below. Wall-side booths and a
dozen wooden tables and padded chairs serve diners and drinkers in a
comfortable atmosphere. Framed prints populate the beige stucco'd walls where
the neighbors' stone and mortar exterior walls now contribute to the brewpub's
textured interior design. The high ceiling sports dark wooden beams that
support electric fans, together they draw away any suspected carcinogenic
clouds from the young chain-smokers. Pipes and cigars are not allowed. Toward
the rear lies a small banquet room seating up to twenty and available for
private parties. The stone floor projects sounds from the beer garden outward.
Above, a red-bricked room features a ceiling of painted clouds with a
retractable skylight. Downstairs a small bar stands between a dozen more tables
and the shiny brewhouse. Two six-tap brass towers pour the house brews while
light Rock & Roll music accompanies the visuals on the bar's one silent TV.
Seating can accommodate 231 and the first floor is wheelchair accessible.
The food menu offered a good variety of flavorful treats with the
vegi dishes, pastas and breads early standouts. Prices are accommodating for
both the college crowd and trendy shoppers alike. Appetizers run $4 to $6 and
include Chipotle Chicken and Madeira Mushrooms; Soups like cheddar Ale are $2
to $4; Sandwiches that feature Roasted Pepper Foccacia, Chicken, Ham and Beef,
along with Burgers, are about $5.25; Lunch and Dinners Entrees range from $6 to
$15 and include Pastas, Pork, Curry Shrimp as well as Fish & Chips; Salad
attractions such as Brewers Chicken and Portabello Spinach are $7; and side
orders ($1.50) and Desserts such as Pie, Coffee, Cheesecake and Ice Cream round
out the line up, all for $2 to $4. The fresh baked goods originate just a short
distance away at the award-winning Wheatfields Bakery & Cafe, named by USA
Today as the best artesian bakery in the U.S. On display and available for
consumption are 64 brands of mustards from around the country. House wines join
a full liquor complement which includes ten Single Malt Scotches.
The flavors featured on the beer menu are no
less assertive. The Ad Astra Ale (1052) is copper colored with a fine
head, medium body, smooth mouthfeel and even balance. The 27 IBUs of hops are
slyly cloaked in this 1052 Original Gravity (OG) beer's dry malty character.
The Populist Porter comes in at 43 IBUs with its creamy rendition of a
well-balanced, creamy porter with a mild chocolatey flavor. The Oatmeal
Stout (1061) is equally opaque but topped by a thick head and features a
rich, dry malty flavor where an almost smoky character begins just before
finishing clean and dry. The Invigorator Doppel Bock boasts a 1091 OG
for is deceptively clear, ruby color. The creamy mouthfeel is matched to a rich
malty flavor with alcohol peaking through in the finish. The wintertime special
Old Backus Barleywine packs a sweet and alcoholic punch but one very
well balanced for its young nine month age. The Wheat State Golden
(1047) starts with a light hop aroma and follows with a similar delicate but
pleasing wheat flavor. This clear straw-colored brew offers a great flavor/body
combination where the fine white head and lace last 'til the end. The
Copperhead Pale Ale (1058) boasts a respectable 50 IBUs for its clear
amber color, lithe hop aroma and light body. The smooth mouthfeel matches well
with the light hoppy flavor and subtle maltiness. This one should be very
popular. The Spring seasonal Maibok, at 1070, is a clear gold with a
medium body and smooth malty flavor that finishes cleanly. Well done! After two
years of aging, the 1999 Old Backus Barleywine appears a clear dark
amber with a thick tan head, very big alcohol and malt flavor combo that comes
across incredibly smooth, with just enough supporting hops. Also aged two
years, but in whiskey barrels, is the '99 Owd Mac's Imperial Stout.
With intense aromas of whiskey and alcohol, the thinning laces betrays the high
alcohol content. The silky smooth mouthfeel accompanies a big roasted flavor
that is mellowed by age and alcohol. This one goes down all too well. One
Winter seasonal is the opaque Bison Dark Ale. The tan head leads to a
thick and lasting lace over the dark brown liquid. Rich dark malt flavors
create a robust and hearty brew to help overcome the chills of March.
In time for St. Patrick's Day 2002 was the Grace
O'Malley's Irish Ale. This medium-bodied brew poured a dark copper color
with a lasting white lace. The rich, dry, malty flavor had a slight toasted
character and smooth mouthfeel - very nice!
Together, the food, beer and ambiance show that Kansas' oldest
brewpub knows how to do it right. Stop in for a $2.25 pint or enjoy a growler
to go for a hard-to-beat $8.35 new or $6 refill (Doppel Bock is $12). Don't
feel guilty about leaving with it in a brown paper bag, it's just one more of
the anti-alcohol laws still on the books in the last state in the US to repeal
total prohibition. The staff is beer-aware and friendly while the beers
full-flavored and affordable. It's enough to make you think you were
transported to another place and time via a whirling funnel-shaped weather
phenomenon. Visit Free State soon before the Carrie Nation is resurrected.
Hours are 11 AM to Midnight Monday through Saturday and Noon to 11 PM on
Sunday. Souvenirs on display and for sale include pint glasses, T-shirts,
long-sleeve shirts and ball caps.
Breath easy in Lawrence, Kansas - it's now SMOKE FREE. The arrival
of showcased seasonals are best discovered via the website. New Year's Eve 2007
saw the reappearance on tap of the Old Backus Barleywine. Likely the
2005 production, it poured an opaque dark brown with aromas of raisins and
molasses. The light-to-medium body combined with a soft mouthfeel to deliver
the sweetish malty flavor that featured a slight hop bitterness and finished
toward dry. Overall, well-blended and smooth, where the flavors were not
overpowering and the alcohol not "in your face". Winter also saw the brief
appearance of the Thunderhead Pale. It appears a deep cooper color
with a thick white head. Hop aroma is the signature here and is matched by a
great hoppy bitterness throughout. A nice American-style pale ale.
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| View from Above | Jayhawkers Unite | Special Delivery |
Free State Brewing Co.
630 Massachusetts (downtown at 7th)
Lawrence, KS 66044
(785) 843-4555
http://freestatebrewers.com
map
Reviewed by Tom Ciccateri - November, 1998; June, 1999
& March 2002; December 2006
NM Virtual Brewpub
Brewpub Reviews