Improving Efficiency

[TeufelBrew]

First two AG's I had 63 and 56% efficiencies. I'm not so worried about brewhouse efficiency as a number as I am making the most of the grains and ensuring I'm mashing and sparging properly and effectively.

I have a 50 or 52 qt Coleman Extreme cooler(Freebie) with a 5' SS braid as my manifold. I'm doing 5 gallon batches and trying for 1.25Q H20 per 1lbs grain. Adjust after strike water to hit temp with as little water as possible. Usually 50-60min mash and recirculate a few quarts of runnoff until it's as clear as possible. I sparge with the amount of water ProMash indicates for my given batch, evaporation, space losses etc.

Could I be using too much water and not getting all the liquid into my brew pot? I did have a couple extra gallons on last batch that I ended up making starter wort with. Ok with that once in a while. Just want to make sure I'm not running a flawed process or missing things I ought to be aware of.

[hooky]

Batch or Fly sparge?
Your mill or grind at the LHBS?

[corkybstewart]

The one thing that bumped my efficiency from 70 to 85% was to motorize my grain mill which left me with a much finer grind.
Another thought is to get a refractometer so you can quickly test the gravity of your runoff to make sure you've got all the sugars. If I find that I have my 13 gallons but my runoff is still at 1.020, I'll collect a bunch more wort and boil it in another kettle in the kitchen, and then add the thick syrup to my main kettle at flameout.

[JayShaw91]

Corky's advice on grind is how I ended up improving my efficiency. I have the non-adjustable JSP Maltmill, so my grind is always the same.

I batch sparge and get 80%+ efficiency, for the record.

[Indytom]

First thing to cross my mind were the same three questions Hooky asked.

[TeufelBrew]

Oops, forgot. Batch sparge. I grind at LHBS and others have gotten more consistent results from the same mill, so I ventured a guess I was doing something that caused the change. I received my reftractometer since my last batch and will be using it this weekend. I've bumped my grain bill to match my average efficiency in hopes of coming closer to style and taste for a Marzen this weekend. Thanks all for your input!

[hooky]

You have the same setup I have with the cooler and braid. Other than a mill, which pushed me over 80% efficiency, I started sparging with water that was over 195 degrees. That helped my efficiency immensely. IMO it's not in contact with the grain bed long enough to extract tannins in a batch sparge situation.

Also, try to make your two sparge volumes as close to equal as possible.

[corkybstewart]

I batch sparged, fly sparged, did longer mashes, my efficiency stayed around 72-75. Then suddenly my efficiency jumped to around 85 on the first batch I brewed after I milled my grain with a power drill instead of hand cranking. The grist is noticeably finer with a whole bunch of what I consider flour. I haven't had any sparging issues, even with the hefeweizen I did this weekend with 60% wheat.

[TeufelBrew]

Two sparge volumes? I've been doing one sparge. Maybe we have found a way to improve prior to ordering my own grain mill.

[JayShaw91]

Kev, I'd expect you won't get much more than a few extra points by doing two volumes or increasing the temp. I had 65% efficiency at best until I got my own mill. The problem is you don't know how coarse/fine they have the mill set - and that could potentially change every time you get your grain crushed by them. In other words, unless they have the width of the roller set the same every time, this is a variable in every brewing equation you have no answer to.

So next time you go in, you may have them crush it, have it be finer, and you do the two batch sparge. Boom - you get 75% efficiency and think you have the answer. Next time they grind at a different setting, you do EVERYTHING the same with the same ingredients and procedures... but are back in the low 60% efficiency range. What changed? Just the grind.

Mills are not cheap, I know that. I suggets you find out what they set the mill to and if they are in the habit of changing this. I'd bet they change it.

FWIW, the Maltmill is set to .045". Maybe you have them crush your next batch at this setting and see how your efficiency goes.

[corkybstewart]

A grain mill may be expensive, but once you have it you can count on tremendous savings by buying bulk malt. I pay less than $.50 per pound for most malts by buying from a nearby brewpub. If you're paying $1.50 per pound at your LHBS 4 bags of bulk malt can pay for your mill easily.

[TeufelBrew]

Corky, I agree with your reasoning and your math. Problem is getting that into the pipline of things that need to be purchased, like new windows and flooring. Maybe I'll find some work on the side to fund my budding brewery from, then it won't be as much of an issue? lmao

[markaberrant]

I did the math last fall on the cost of a mill vs cost of buying pre-crushed grain from LHBS. I plan out my brewing schedule and recipes about 12 months in advance, so I was able to determine that it would pay for itself in less than a year. Pretty much a no brainer.

By the way, I usually get about 75% efficiency. My bigger beers were getting lower efficiency, so I was making lots of 2 penny beers to not waste sugars, but now I just collect more wort and boil longer.

[dparsons]

In addition to the mill, you might want to start with a lower water to grain ratio. About 1.1 is good. You'll actually get a little quicker conversion and will start off more concentrated on the sugars so you'll be able to rinse more out on successive fills.

[corkybstewart]

Originally Posted by TeufelBrew

Corky, I agree with your reasoning and your math. Problem is getting that into the pipline of things that need to be purchased, like new windows and flooring. Maybe I'll find some work on the side to fund my budding brewery from, then it won't be as much of an issue? lmao

You've just got to get your priorities straight in your head.