1.5 oz Chocolate Extract in secondary
2-3oz fresh mint leaves lightly chopped in secondary
1 tsp Irish moss
When you mash you may want to do a two stage mash, Mash in at around 130° - 132°F this should stabilize the around 120° -122° and hold this temp for 15 minutes for a protein rest for the oats. The raise the temperature to around 153° F for 45 minutes to an hour.
__________________
Toxic Waste Brewery
Currently in Primary: Not a Thing
Currently in Secondary: zip
Bottle Conditioning: nothing
Currently Drinking:Nada
What's Next: nothing what so ever
The Liver is Evil, therefore it must be punished....
Type: All Grain
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 6.84 gal
Boil Time: 90 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 73.00
Expected OG: 1.110
Expected IBU: 188.3
Grist:
16 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 77.26 %
1 lbs 7.0 oz Roasted Barley (300.0 SRM) Grain 6.95 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 4.83 %
8.0 oz Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 2.41 %
6.1 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 1.83 %
6.1 oz Chocolate Malt (450.0 SRM) Grain 1.83 %
6.1 oz Munich Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 1.83 %
6.1 oz Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) Grain 1.83 %
4.0 oz Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM) Grain 1.21 %
Hop Schedule:
2.50 oz Mt. Hood [6.00 %] (60 min) Hops 32.9 IBU
2.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (60 min) Hops 46.6 IBU
2.50 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (60 min) Hops 30.1 IBU
2.50 oz Crystal [3.50 %] (60 min) Hops 19.2 IBU
1.00 oz Mt. Hood [6.00 %] (30 min) Hops 10.1 IBU
1.00 oz Crystal [3.50 %] (30 min) Hops 5.9 IBU
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (30 min) Hops 14.3 IBU
1.00 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (30 min) Hops 9.3 IBU
2.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (20 min) Hops 14.6 IBU
0.50 oz Mt. Hood [6.00 %] (5 min) Hops 1.5 IBU
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (5 min) Hops 1.9 IBU
0.50 oz Williamette [5.50 %] (5 min) Hops 1.2 IBU
0.50 oz Crystal [3.50 %] (5 min) Hops 0.8 IBU
Yeast:
Irish Ale (Wyeast Labs #1084) Yeast-Ale
Notes:
My intentions here are to make an over the top imperial stout. I've attempted a similar brew twice before. The first time I over did the burnt grain including toasting my own oats to near charcoal accidentally.
The second time came out very good, but the hops (although near 90 IBU) are not even noticeable with the 1.100 gravity.
So, here I was shooting for around 7% roasted barely and ~9% assorted crystal malts. I threw in some special B for complexity. Also added a bit of oats for increased mouth feel and some wheat for head retention.
I'm also considering putting in a pound of lactose to make sure the body is as big as possible.
The hop bill might look a little extreme, but with all the dark malts and the extreme gravity it wont be overwhelming. Plus I was drunk and ordered a pound of American hops two months ago and have no idea what to do with them. I used a few ounces for an American IPA, but have a ton left over. Why not throw them all in an imperial stout.
I think 6 oz's of Munich will be wasted unless you just have that much lying around and need to use it. In fact I would simplify the whole grain bill by using more of either wheat or Carapils, but not both, bump the chocolate to at least 3/4 pound, up the oats and drop the Special B. I use Special B instead of Crystal 120 in my RIS, but I use a lot more than the 6 oz's you've got.
Also my RIS uses around about 5 oz's of Challenger Wye for bittering, it's around 7.5 AA and that's for a 10 gallon batch. I use another 5 or 6 oz.s for flavor, but no very late additions at all. Even with the same OG that you're looking for the hop bitterness is nicely pronounced.
I absolutely would not use 1084, I don't think you'll get enough attenuation. Go for 3 packs of rehydrated S-05.
Are you sure you can get 73% efficiency with such a big beer?
With a beer that big, light body is not going to be a problem, so forget about lactose.
All of those small amounts (less than a 1lb) of specialty grains seem unnecessary. Unless you are just using up ingredients, I'd skip all of them except the chocolate, which you could easily bump up to 1lb.
I really don't care for your hopping approach, seems like a muddled mess. If you bought lots of hops, toss them in the freezer, don't toss them into this beer and ruin it (I know this from experience). Use something high alpha for bittering, then use an ounce or two of either the Amarillo or Willamette at flameout. 100 IBUs should be plenty in a beer like this, as long as your water chemistry is ok, and you get proper attenuation.
I just wrote up a new RIS recipe last night for myself. Here it is:
5.5 gallon batch, 3 hour boil, mash at 150F, estimated OG 1.100 - 1.110
21 lbs maris otter
1 lb c120
1 lb roasted barley
1 lb black patent
1 lb chocolate malt
1 oz Centennial @ 20
1 oz Centennial @ flameout
enough Centennial @ 60 minutes to hit 100 IBUs
S-05 (2-3 packs rehydrated)
__________________
Primary: Belgian Dark Strong
Secondary: Flanders Red 10, Flanders Red 08/09
Bottle Conditioning: Cyser
Kegged: DIPA
Drinking: Witbier, IPA, Flanders Red 08/09, Vanilla Brown Ale, Black DIPA, Imperial Chocolate Brown Ale, Cascade/Centennial IPA, Imperial Witbier, English Barleywine, Historical Imperial Stout, Belgian Dark Strong, US Barleywine
Last edited by markaberrant : 07-07-2009 at 11:14 AM.
Here's an interesting note from AHA Tech Talk today. It's written by Drew Beechum homebrewer extraordinaire.
Tim asks about the outrageously high calculated numbers he gets from Promash and other programs for the PtE clone from Zymurgy.
Welcome to the difference between calculations and actuals. One of the problems for us homebrewers is that none of our kettle utilization factors are well known. The other is that as you try and cram more and more iso-alpha's into the beer, the less soluble they become.
I remember a conversation at an NHC a few years back when a couple of us in the club were presenting him with some of our hoppy beers to John Maier. He politely tasted each, asked us for the digits on each and when we supplied them he corrected the calculated ibus to what the actuals probably were on the fly. John doesn't say much, so needless to say, when he did we paid attention!
The problem with all of our homebrewing calculations (for abv, color, ibus, etc) they all run into a hard wall of reality particularly since we tend to push them beyond the assumed parameters the big brewers developed them for.
Thanks for the feed back, all. I'll take a look and re-evaluate the recipe. I wont have time to brew until about the 18th so I have time. This was a preliminary recipe.
For now I'll take out the late hop additions as this isn't an IPA and look at changing the early additions.
Again, the responses are much appreciated.
---
And for the 73% efficiency, I realize that I will most likely get a lower number. I have some DME on hand to bump the gravity to make up for the lost efficiency. I'd rather base the recipe on 73%, as that is a very consistent number for regular brews, than pick one out of the blue.
________ Bondage Collars
Last edited by Beer Martin : 03-24-2011 at 09:55 PM.
So after a trip to the HBS I came out with these malts for the beer. It's kind of an awkwardly complex mix, but at its base it's roast + crystal + chocolate with a couple of sides malts to sneak in complexity. In such a big dark beer the Rye should add a little spiciness, but not really be identifiable.
Base Malt:
16 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 71.91 %
Crystal Malt:
8.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 2.25 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 2.25 %
8.0 oz Dark Crystal 135 (135.0 SRM) Grain 2.25 %
Chocolate Malt:
8.0 oz Chocolate Malt (450.0 SRM) Grain 2.25 %
8.0 oz Chocolate Wheat Malt (400.0 SRM) Grain 2.25 %
4.0 oz Dark Chocolate (525 SRM) Grain 1.12 %
Specialty Malts:
8.0 oz Oats, Malted (1.0 SRM) Grain 2.25 %
8.0 oz Rye Malt (4.7 SRM) Grain 2.25 %
8.0 oz lactose
8.0 oz maltodextrin
Yeast:
London Ale III - changed from Irish ale b/c in the end I've used it several times and was never really too fond of it. I really like london ESB, but the attenuation on ESB was way to low for it to be a viable option. London III became my next choice. The fermentation temperatue will be held rather restrained to keep the fruity flavors from going wild, but it should be tastey.
As for hops, it's the same amount as above, but I haven't really decided on the additions and times. Looking it up, the last several NHC medal winning Imp Stouts all had finishing hops. So finishing hops seem appropriate. I still haven't determined how restrained or up front I want to go with it.
I'll probably pick a few commercial examples this week and see which way I want to go with it.
Leaf Hops (4 oz each):
Mt. Hood 6% AA
Crystal 3.5% AA
Amarillo Gold 8.5% AA
Williamette 5.5% AA
The basic hopping plan I'm thinking of is using the higher alpha hops for bittering. Also, I'm not sure how aggressive I want the American hops to be. I also have 2 oz of cascade I could use to boost the florals, but Mt. Hood has the floral profile as well. The rest are kind of earthier/spicier hops. As of now I'm leaning on using those for the flavoring and aroma. I'm just not sure to what extent.
I am sure I want the IBUs to be way way over the top. The OG is looking to be about 1.119 so I have a lot to balance. 119 IBUs still gives a 0.5 OG/IBU ratio. Which wont really come out very hoppy. So even if I push it to 160+ IBU it shouldn't be as insane as it looks on paper.
Those are just my thoughts. Thanks again for the input. Let me know what you think, or even if you think I'm crazy (aren't we all?).
________ VOLCANO VAPORIZER
Last edited by Beer Martin : 03-24-2011 at 09:58 PM.
I think you are going to have trouble getting this to fully ferment. I personally wouldn't use the carapils, lactose or maltodextrin... at the very least, leave out the lactose for now, you can add it at bottling if you think it is too dry/thin (just boil it up with your priming sugar). London Ale III isn't really known for attenuation or high gravity brewing... brew a small beer first to build up the yeast count, keep fermentation around 65F, and then hope like hell it finishes.
An OG of 1.119 and IBU of 119 gives you a 1:1 ratio, which I still think is plenty bitter, but given your yeast and grain bill choices, overhopping it might be a good thing.
__________________
Primary: Belgian Dark Strong
Secondary: Flanders Red 10, Flanders Red 08/09
Bottle Conditioning: Cyser
Kegged: DIPA
Drinking: Witbier, IPA, Flanders Red 08/09, Vanilla Brown Ale, Black DIPA, Imperial Chocolate Brown Ale, Cascade/Centennial IPA, Imperial Witbier, English Barleywine, Historical Imperial Stout, Belgian Dark Strong, US Barleywine
I'm making a 1 liter yeast starter to be pitched into a 2 liter yeast starter.
It should give the requisite yeast count. The carapils can't be removed as the grain is all bagged together. I will consider the sugar additions, but my idea is to go completely over the top with everything.
I had a buddy put 2 pounds of lactose in a 5 gallon milk stout and it came out really good. Over the top is the goal here. I've always wanted to make a beer that is as close to a solid as possible. People say guinness is like drinking bread. I want this to be like drinking pound cake, or concrete...
---
As a side note, I was judging at a competition and came across and imp stout entitled Balrog's blood. It was insane. It inspired me to create something more over the top. And that is my goal. Too be honest I'm not sure this will be heavier than the Balrog's Blood imp stout.
________ MERCEDES-BENZ G-CLASS SPECIFICATIONS
Last edited by Beer Martin : 03-24-2011 at 09:58 PM.
15 lbs Northern Brewer Gold LME
1 lbs Honey
.5 lbs Roasted Barley
.5 lbs Simpsons Chocolate
.5 lbs Special B Malt
.5 lbs Caramel-120L
.5 lbs Debittered Black Malt
2 oz Summit 60 min
2 oz Willamette 60 min
2 oz Willamette 45 min
2 oz Willamette 15 min
Scottish Ale Yeast
ABV 11.9%
SRM 53
I'll be soaking 2 oz of oak chips in 12 oz of bourbon while this is in primary and adding it to secondary.
__________________
"Nothing matters
but flopping on a mattress
with cheap dreams and a beer."
-Butowski
Bottled: Maiden Voyage Imperial Stout, Dumpster Fire Cherry Ale & Belgian Dubbel
Primary: Nothing-YIKES!
On Deck: American Chauvinist Ale & Demon Concubine Black IPA
Last edited by Baacktoberfest : 03-29-2011 at 08:04 PM.
I don't understand the de-bittered black malt but everything else looks good to me. I use debittered when I want color with little flavor, and this beer will have plenty of color already.
I'm guessing the 56.6 ABV listed is actually the IBU's? I'm not familiar with Summit, what are the AA's on it?
I don't understand the de-bittered black malt but everything else looks good to me. I use debittered when I want color with little flavor, and this beer will have plenty of color already.
I'm guessing the 56.6 ABV listed is actually the IBU's? I'm not familiar with Summit, what are the AA's on it?
You're correct on the 56.6 ABV Corky.
Summit was included in the Impy kit that I used once, so I just used it here.
"Typical alpha: 17.0-19.0%. Super-high alpha dwarf variety grown on low trellis systems in the Yakima valley. It has a low cohumulone content with a strong orange/tangerine citrus character."
I just wanted to use a really strong hopp to cut down on the expense, and after hearing your feedback in regards to Chinook there was no way in hell I was going to use that.
Would you just go with a Simpsons Black Malt?
If anyone has any input on the Summit, your feedback is welcome. I want a hopp that packs a punch but will also play well with the caramel and
special B. I'm also considering using a VERY small amount of licorice root as well as some vanilla in this.
__________________
"Nothing matters
but flopping on a mattress
with cheap dreams and a beer."
-Butowski
Bottled: Maiden Voyage Imperial Stout, Dumpster Fire Cherry Ale & Belgian Dubbel
Primary: Nothing-YIKES!
On Deck: American Chauvinist Ale & Demon Concubine Black IPA
Last edited by Baacktoberfest : 11-04-2010 at 03:47 PM.
I think you have plenty of dark malts already. For the oatmeal stout I brewed last weekend I think I used 1 pound of roasted barley and a pound of chocolate for a 10 gallon batch, or maybe just 3/4 pound of each. A little goes a long way.
I'm not much of an American hop fan. 90% of the hops I use are traditional European varieties, with an occasional batch brewed with Mt. Hood or Willamette(American versions of traditional European hops). I'm not an IPA drinker so I don't have much use for a lot of the American hops.
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