75 minute IPA (inspired by, but by no means a clone of DFH's)
For 5 gallons
14 lbs US pale malt
1 lb US amber malt
Mashed at 152 for one hour.
Got horrible horrible horrible efficiency (first AG, bad sparging technique), added DME to get to target SG of 1.070
75 minute boil...
2 oz. Simcoe, 2 oz. Centennial, 1.5 oz Northern Brewer, 1 oz Crystal
Mixed thoroughly and split into 16 roughly equal additions, added every 5 minutes (last one while cooling).
Cooled to 70F, OG 1.076, pitched two packs US-05 (overkill, yes)
Tasted great going into the fermenter!
Fermenting now at about 68F. Will dry-hop with 2 oz. Simcoe after a week or so, then bottle in 2-3 weeks after that.
Got horrible horrible horrible efficiency (first AG, bad sparging technique), added DME to get to target SG of 1.070
That's ok. Sounds to me like the best partial mash you'll ever make. Look at the bright side. You recognized the problem and thought on your feet. You came up with a good solution and saved your beer. Great job!
One other thing, it sometimes helps when starting AG to brew the same recipe several times in a row so that you can concentrate on technique as opposed to other stuff. Because of the hop shortage, I can understand if you want to try something else that doesn't require a 2nd mortgage on the house. However, doing another easier recipe a few times to dial in your system will help you a lot. While DIPA's are relatively simple in concept compared to other AG recipes, they are so big in both grain and hop bills that that can cause problems by itself. Not to mention the costs of all the ingredients.
I'd suggest you use a more "standard" but easy drinking beer in the 1.050ish range to dial yourself in (think blondes, pale ales, hefeweizens, ambers). Then you aren't stuck with a whole boatload of "have-to-force-it-down" beer as you dial in your process. The mistakes don't end up undrinkable, because whether you miss either high or low, you are still in "drinkable" range.
HTH-
__________________
-B'Dawg
Give a man a beer and he'll waste an hour. Teach him to brew and he'll waste a lifetime. - Nuco Gordo
Tomorrow, I plan on brewing a super small beer with my leftover grain to see if I can do any better with my efficiency (had to buy 20 lbs of pale malt because my LHBS was out of 55-lb sacks). In a week or two, I'll pick up a 55-lb'er and some specialty grains and probably follow your advice.
6 lbs pale malt, 1/4 oz of Sterling at 60-30-15-0, US-05... Should be a nice refreshing beer that I could drink all day without getting drunk, eh? Will using so little grain give me any problems, like maybe an inadequate filter bed? My mash-tun is a 10-gal Rubbermaid with a bazooka T.
What's the AA level on the Sterling? 4 HBU's at 60 will give you 16 IBUs. (ie, 1 oz of 4% hops, or 1/4 oz of 16% will give you the same bittering levels). For reference, that's hefeweizen strength, and it will be low bitterness even in a small beer.
You might want to add more hops or use them all in one single bittering addition.
You should be ok mashing that in a cooler. I did a braggot with 7 lbs of grain a few weeks ago and it turned out fine.
HTH-
__________________
-B'Dawg
Give a man a beer and he'll waste an hour. Teach him to brew and he'll waste a lifetime. - Nuco Gordo
Holy crap! I bottled that beer at the top of this page today, and it is fantastic! Even at room temperature and uncarbonated, it's already my best beer. It tastes remarkably like DFH's 90-minute. I am already regretting that I only have a little less than 5 gallons of it.
Brewed this at the end on March, moved it to secondary in late April, finally kegged it tonight. Even my wife, who prefers dark beer and isn't so much of a hop-head really liked the warm flat sample. Not to shabby getting 10.8% ABV out of 15 pounds of grain, too. It's force carbing now.
DRIPA
A ProMash Recipe Report
BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------
14-C India Pale Ale, Imperial IPA
% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.7 0.25 lbs. Wheat Malt America 38.00 2
88.3 13.25 lbs. Maris Otter 2-row Pale Ale Great Britain 38.00 3
6.7 1.00 lbs. Flaked Rye America 34.00 2
3.3 0.50 lbs. Crystal 20L America 35.00 20
Potential represented as Points per pound per gallon.
Hops
Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.50 oz. Nugget Whole 12.00 68.7 60 min.
1.00 oz. Centennial Whole 8.60 8.8 15 min.
0.50 oz. Centennial Whole 8.60 2.7 5 min.
1.00 oz. Willamette Whole 5.50 0.0 Dry Hop
Yeast
-----
White Labs WLP007 Dry English Ale
Water Profile
-------------
Profile: Burton On Trent [pitched onto yeast cake]
Mash Schedule
-------------
Mash Type: Multi Step
Grain Lbs: 15.00
Water Qts: 15.00 - Before Additional Infusions
Qts Water Per Lbs Grain: 1.00 - Before Additional Infusions
I've finally decided instead of brewing an existing recipe or just tweaking one to my liking to come up with a recipe with a blank sheet of paper. Here's my idea.
American IPA
10 Gallon Recipe
22 lbs. Briess 2 Row
3 lbs. Munich
2 lbs. Crystal 60 L
Max GU = 91.7 ....... 79% Efficiency Expected OG = 1.073
2oz. Chinook 11.4 AA 60 min
2oz. Cascade 7.5 AA 30 min
2oz. Cascade 7.5 AA 5 min
Total IBU’s 70.19
Yeast WLP001 pitched from a starter (making it now )
I do not use software and don't intend to. I calculated the IBU's from the formula and was wondering if any of you who know how to do this could check it for me or run it through the software just to make sure I'm on the right track. Any other suggestions are good as well.
Thanks in Advance,
Mike
Actually I usually brew, then enter what I brewed so my computer tells me if my beer will meet the guidelines of whatever style it is supposed to be. Usually I'm close, but my IBU's or OG are almost always higher than what the BJCP gods have decreed.
Actually I usually brew, then enter what I brewed so my computer tells me if my beer will meet the guidelines of whatever style it is supposed to be. Usually I'm close, but my IBU's or OG are almost always higher than what the BJCP gods have decreed.
Good, then I'm going to brew it and let my tastebuds tell me if I hit what I was going for or not. I'm about as concerned with the guidelines as Vance... ok, maybe not that extreme. lol. But there's a certain bitterness that I just can't tolerate. I don't think 70 is it.
I brewed my IPA recipe yesterday morning and when I added the first hop addition I was watching TV - People's Outragous Behavior on G4 network in the garage. Some kids lit a hockey puck on fire and soaked goalie pads in gasoline and shot the puck at the goalie. Obviously stop drop and roll was in order, I was glued to the damn event, and in the meantime my keggle with 12.5 gallons of wort boiled over. Damn. Hop material spilled out and down the sides onto the floor. In my attempt to rescue some of the bitterness, I added a half ounce of Cascade hops to the 2 oz of Chinook. We'll see if it worked. The wort tasted plenty of bitterness, so I think it's be ok. So much for knowing if I brew it again what it will taste like though.
Look at the bright side. You recognized the problem and thought on your feet. You came up with a good solution and saved your beer. Great job!
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