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  #16  
Old 05-16-2006, 07:17 PM
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I saw it too, but I do not remeber where it was. The jist was that greatest flavor comes at 20 minutes, and aroma at 7 minutes.
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  #17  
Old 05-16-2006, 07:29 PM
Derekt2 Derekt2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boerne Brew
I saw it too, but I do not remeber where it was. The jist was that greatest flavor comes at 20 minutes, and aroma at 7 minutes.


I'd like to see that too b/c 20 minutes I can accept although I believe that to be the outer limit. Seven minutes I'm not so sure about it *but* when I was still brewing for a job our knock-out was: boiler off, last addition, 15 min. whirlpool, rapid pump through chiller. That would have meant the hops steeped for 15+ minutes until they hit the CFC and they were pretty hoppy beers in flavor and aroma.
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  #18  
Old 05-16-2006, 07:34 PM
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actually those were the optimal hopping rates
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  #19  
Old 05-16-2006, 07:36 PM
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Found it

http://www.realbeer.com/discussions/...ighlight=chart

Look for the link call 'Click me'
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  #20  
Old 02-02-2007, 11:18 PM
Davidpl85 Davidpl85 is offline
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Which Pale Ale??? (English/India Pale Ale

Here's a pale ale that a friend gave me. Give it a try!!

?Which Pale Ale??
(English/India Pale Ale)

Ingredients for 7 gallons
5 pounds Muntons spraymalt ? extra light
3 pounds Muntons spray malt ? plain light
1 pound Crystal malt ? Muntons 2-row (60?L)
6 ? ounces Carapils malt ? Dingemanns (7.7?L)
2 ounces Kent Goldings hop pellets (6.2% ?-acid) ? 60 minutes
1 ounce Kent Goldings hop pellets (6.2% ?-acid) ? 10 minutes
1 ounce Cascade hop pellets (5.6% ?-acid) ? 10 minutes
1 ounce Cascade hop pellets (5.6% ?-acid) ? dry hop with #001 yeast (IPA)
1 ounce Fuggles hop pellets (3.7% ?-acid) ? dry hop with #005 yeast (ESB)
1 vial California ale yeast (White Labs #001)
1 vial British ale yeast (White Labs #005)

? Original specific gravity: 1.062
? Terminal Specific Gravity: 1.007 (#001)/1.009 (#005)
? Primary fermentation: 10 days at 68?F (20?C) in plastic
? Secondary fermentation: 19 days at 68?F (20?C) in glass
? Tertiary Fermentation: 9 days at 68?F (20?C) in glass
? Age since bottling: 2 ? months


Yeast Characteristics (http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew_strains.html)

WLP001 California Ale Yeast ? ?This yeast is famous for its clean flavors, balance and ability to be used in almost any style ale. It accentuates the hop flavors and is extremely versatile.
Attenuation: 73-80%
Flocculation: Medium
Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 68-73?F
Alcohol Tolerance: High?

WLP005 British Ale Yeast ? ?This yeast is a little more attenuative than WLP002. Like most English strains, this yeast produces malty beers. Excellent for all English style ales including bitter, pale ale, porter, and brown ale.
Attenuation: 67-74%
Flocculation: High
Optimum fermentation temperature: 65-70?F
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium?
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Last edited by Davidpl85 : 05-03-2011 at 08:37 AM.
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  #21  
Old 03-16-2007, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wolf359
Double Dry Hopped Damned Caliche IPA

Malt
8lbs light DME
1lb Marris Otter pale 2 row
1/4lb Crystal 10L
1/4lb Honey malt
1/4lb Munich

Hops (all whole leaf)
1oz Warrior @ 90 min
1oz Chinook @ 45 min
1oz Centennial @ 10 min
1oz Cascade @ 5 min
1oz Columbus @ flame out
dry hopped w/ 1oz Columbus & 1oz Cascade for 4 days
dry hopped w/ 2oz Amarillo for the next 4 days

Yeast
Whitelabs California Ale Yeast

This turned out deep golden in color, with a smooth bitterness, and a huge grapefruity hop flavor and aroma. I really love this brew.


After enjoying a beer with amarillo hops (Mojo IPA) and unsuccessfully trying to get the recipe I'm going to try to make this one, though my local HB store doesn't carry all the hops in leaf form. How much should I change the hop amounts to reflect this? Would it be better to get those I can in leaf, and the rest in pellets?

Also, pardon the additional newbie questions...but are there any special steps to the process? Add the cracked grains to cold water bring the temp up (just short of boil?), flame off add LME, bring to a boil then use the hop schedule as listed. My brewpot can't hold a 5 gallon boil, will boiling ~3 gallons then topping off be a problem?

TIA.
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  #22  
Old 03-16-2007, 04:55 PM
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Carl-

You will be doing what's called a partial mash.This web site has lots of detail on how to do it. Pay attention to temp control. Temperature control is very important when mashing. You need to be near 153F +- about 5 degrees for this to work. If you go too far outside that range (especially ABOVE) you won't get the starch to convert to sugar (ever if too high or in a reasonable time if too cool). Use a thermometer -- don't guess.

Since you are doing a concentrated boil but switching leaf hops to pellets, I'd leave the hops amounts alone. A concentrated boil lowers your hop extraction. Using pellets instead of whole hops increases your hop extraction. These 2 effect will pretty much cancel each other out in your case.

HTH-
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Last edited by BrewDog : 03-16-2007 at 04:58 PM.
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  #23  
Old 03-16-2007, 05:01 PM
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Agreed. Let us know if you cannot locate the hop types you need.
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  #24  
Old 03-17-2007, 12:49 PM
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This thread is awesome. I hope to try each of these recipes.
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  #25  
Old 03-18-2007, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Carl Spakler
After enjoying a beer with amarillo hops (Mojo IPA) and unsuccessfully trying to get the recipe I'm going to try to make this one, though my local HB store doesn't carry all the hops in leaf form. How much should I change the hop amounts to reflect this? Would it be better to get those I can in leaf, and the rest in pellets?


Get them here in leaf form:
http://www.freshops.com/

They have a high quality product and its worth doing.
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  #26  
Old 03-18-2007, 03:19 PM
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Carl Spakler Carl Spakler is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by dparsons
Get them here in leaf form:
http://www.freshops.com/

They have a high quality product and its worth doing.


I don't have a gift certificate to that place though, nor can I drive there and pick them up the day I have time to brew.
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  #27  
Old 04-05-2007, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Malt
8lbs light DME
1lb Marris Otter pale 2 row
1/4lb Crystal 10L
1/4lb Honey malt
1/4lb Munich

Hops (all whole leaf)
1oz Warrior @ 90 min
1oz Chinook @ 45 min
1oz Centennial @ 10 min
1oz Cascade @ 5 min
1oz Columbus @ flame out
dry hopped w/ 1oz Columbus & 1oz Cascade for 4 days
dry hopped w/ 2oz Amarillo for the next 4 days

Yeast
Whitelabs California Ale Yeast

The LHBS doesn't have Warrior hops, I'd like to brew this weekend, can anyone suggest a good alternate to Warrior? From some reading I see that Warrior is similar to Nugget and Columbus (both of which are available), since the recipe already calls for Columbus I am thinking I should use Nugget? Any suggestions or advice.

I also read up on the partial mash and think I am ready for it...in light of already having done it for a stout I made, though I didn't use nearly as controlled an environment, it still came out very good. I think I'll try the oven method, we have a remote probe thermometer I can use to accurately monitor oven temp.

TIA!
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  #28  
Old 04-05-2007, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Carl Spakler
The LHBS doesn't have Warrior hops, I'd like to brew this weekend, can anyone suggest a good alternate to Warrior? From some reading I see that Warrior is similar to Nugget and Columbus (both of which are available), since the recipe already calls for Columbus I am thinking I should use Nugget? Any suggestions or advice.


Magnum would be much closer to Warrior (both have a smooth bitterness), but to be honest, I think Nugget or Columbus would work much better with this recipe anyway.
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  #29  
Old 04-05-2007, 11:45 AM
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You might consider the columbus for the 90 minute additon, since after being boiled for 90 miknutes all there is is there bitterness, nor flavor or aroma
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Best Porter - 2007 Longshot, Chicago Division

Primary: Replacement Beer IPA
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On Tap: IIRA, Apprentice Amber, Pig Slayer Pale Ale, Yeast Piss Lager
Up next: thinking....not sure yet
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  #30  
Old 04-05-2007, 12:55 PM
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OK, looks like I'll try the Columbus for the first hp addition.
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