View Full Version : Aroma Hops and Straining
mmmBeer...
06-25-2003, 10:08 AM
I have always used the boil method for adding the aroma hops, and the other day as I was straining the wort on its way to the primary, I was wondering if I was losing any of that “hoppy goodness” by straining the hops out. Am I right in assuming that the boiling is enough (or equal to dry hopping) for adding the aroma component of the hops?
YamahaXS
06-25-2003, 10:46 AM
boiling hops does NOT equal dry hopping.
relying completely on memory, the oils (Lupins?) in hops are fairly unstable. They boil away easily. There are 2 types of acids that impart hop flavor to beer. Beta Acids are more stable, and that is what you mostly get when you boil hops in the wort. Alpha acids are less stable, and you can only get these by dry hopping. Dry hopping can be done with pellets or whole leaf hops, but I have only done it with whole leaf. Strain them out before you bottle (or just put them in a mesh bag prior to putting htem in your beer). You will get an aroma on your beer that prove to you that God loves you very much.
btw, Three Floyds makes a beer, Alpha King, that has is extremely hoppy and has a high Alpha acid content.
mmmBeer...
06-25-2003, 11:24 AM
That is what I thought. However, since I use a glass carboy for primary, how do I strain out the hops, or will they settle to the bottom of the carboy? Will it be more likely to create a block in my overflow tube?
Fast_Eddy
06-25-2003, 11:51 AM
Let me expound on what Yamaha said a little...
Basically there are three types of compounds to consider in hops: the alpha acids(humulone,adhumulone,cohumulone), the beta acids(lupulone,adlupulone,colupulone), and the aromatic oils. All of these compounds are contained in the lupulin glands of the hop.
The alpha acids are what provide the bittering aspect of beer when they are isomerized(and become soluble) during the boil. The longer they are boiled the higher the percentage that is isomerized and the more bitterness they contribute.
The beta acids don't really isomerize and are mostly lost by precipitation.
Myrcene, humulene, and caryophyllene(had to look these names up) are three of the major aromatic oil compounds. They are very volatile hydrocarbons that are mostly driven off during the boil. Myrcene is the less desirable and imparts a harsh, grassy taste.
Originally posted by mmmBeer...
That is what I thought. However, since I use a glass carboy for primary, how do I strain out the hops, or will they settle to the bottom of the carboy? Will it be more likely to create a block in my overflow tube?
i dry hop (whole hops) in secondary only...not sure if that is the correct way, but it works for me. i just dump the dry hops in, then rack, then give a good swirl...typically, the hops stay at the top. the plastic lip on the auto-siphon or racking cane acts as a decent filter for the hops. have yet to get any in a bottle, knock on formica.
paul84043
06-26-2003, 10:08 AM
Buy the 1" id tygon blowoff tube from your HB store, I did this at Tweek's recommendation, you will never have a clogged blowoff again, EVER.....
YamahaXS
06-27-2003, 09:18 AM
thanks Fast Eddy.... now I am straight on a couple of things, that is until i forget them again.
cheers and beers! Dry hopping rules!
mmmBeer...
06-27-2003, 10:39 AM
Thanks everyone for your help. I think I willl try dry hopping my next batch. I guess as long as the hop pellet package is sealed properly then contamination shouldn't be an issue.
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