Secondary Fermentation Question?

[drew00]

I'm new to homebrewing (working on my first batch of ale), and I've got a question about secondary fermentation I'm hoping someone out there can help with. Can I do a secondary fermentation on a 5 gal. batch in a 6 1/2 gal. carboy without having to worry about my beer getting oxidized? Also, how do you know when the secondary fermentation is done? I know I can tell when to bottle by taking a hydrometer reading, but can I take a sample without running the risk of oxidizing the beer if it's not ready yet? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Drew

[Richard English]

As I said in a previous post, all Real Ale, whether in bottle or cask, must undergo a secondary fermentation and the process is the same for either type of container.

However, in a cask (because it is not completely sealed and because a large surface area of the brew is exposed) the beer will continue to work even when all the priming sugar has been used. It will eventually turn to vinegar.

If you do not feel that you can drink the entire contents of the cask within about two weeks, then you're probably better off bottling.

You could, of course, use a blanket of commercially produced carbon dioxide which will slow down the process of deteroriation. However, most purists are against this technique since it is likely, unless very low pressures are used, to cause the beer to become too fizzy.

CAMRA is against the use of externally introduced carbon dioxide, although there has been, and continues to be, much debate on the subject.

[toneyc]

He may not be that far, yet, Richard. It sounds like Drew is talking about his second week of fermentation, before bottling or kegging. If so, yes, a 6.5 gallon carboy should be fine. I use a 6.5 gallon plastic bucket, same as my primary fermenter.

:) Toney.

[Richard English]

Obcviously we need to be clear about terms here. A secondary fermentation is one that is induced AFTER the initial fermatation has finished (not simply when it's died down). This will be when all the sugar has been used up and the gravity has returned to 1.00 or near.

In some cases (notably champagne) the secondary fermentation is induced after the wine has been racked and is completely clear and involves the use of new (and maybe even different) yeast as well as sugar.

Normally, though, there is enough residual yeast in beer for the fermentation to restart simply by the addition of sugar.

[beerman1001001]

Drew, I've been using a 6 1/2 gallon glass carboy for secondary fermentation for about the last 3 years, and have not noticed any negative results or oxidation. I've had some brews sitting in there aging as long as 8 months, and they've turned out just fine. Good luck on your first batch, I hope it turns out well!

[Richard English]

Essentially a carboy is just a large bottle. So, if it is properly sealed and doesn't burst with the pressure, the beer will last for a fair while - just as would a bottled beer.

Ordinary ale casks are not airtight in the same way and the beer will deteriorate quite rapidly.

[CaptHook]

Drew, You are to new to become a purist. When your bottle is clean and ready to transfer, add CO2 to it clearing all air out.
The gas is heavier than air and will stay in. As you transfer the beer will not see oxygen even if it splashes.

[billy frank]

I think you are actually refering to racking or conditioning the beer, which is a good thing. Just move it over to another vessel after the yeast has become inactive which can be anywhere from 5-10 days depending. CaptHook is right on the money with the CO2 plan as oxygen kills beer in a bad way.
You can also pull samples whenever you like to take hydrometer and ph readings , but make sure your beer thief( or turkey baster) is sanitized and do not poor the beer back into the fermenter.
Good luck and Happy brewing,
Billy

[BucksBrew]

What is a beer thief? I thought of using a siphon hose, stick it in, thumb on other end to seal off and pull out. Will this work?

I've read that taking hydro readings, you can use the flask that it came in. This is only slightly larger than the actual hydro. Will this give you enough fluid to work with?

What other options are there.

Yes I am a first timer! can you tell.

Thanks,
Joe

[CaptHook]

Originally posted by BucksBrew
What is a beer thief? I thought of using a siphon hose, stick it in, thumb on other end to seal off and pull out. Will this work?


Thanks,
Joe

You just described it.

[BucksBrew]

Capt-I'm glad to see I have a natural brewmaster ability to figure out some stuff on my own! haha

Thanks!

[BucksBrew]

Capt or someone else-What about taking Hydro readings, asked above.

Thanks,

Joe

[CaptHook]

Originally posted by BucksBrew
Capt or someone else-What about taking Hydro readings, asked above.

Thanks,

Joe
Any clear tube that is large enough to hold the hydrometer will work. A flat bottom to stand alone is good. You only need what
ever it takes to get it to float.
1. Put hydrometer in empty tube
2. add beer till it floats
3. read it at the wet line
4. read the temp of the beer.
5. the sheet that came with the hydrometer has a table
for temp adjustments. USE IT! The unit is set for 60F.
6. Record the reading.
NOW YOU CAN HAVE A BREW!
But didn't you say all this in your first post?

[BucksBrew]

Capt-Thanks for the response. I didn't know what the minimum was for an accurate reading. Also, I am taking readings and converting! I'm trying to keep accurate records.

I think I will partake when it's time to do my final reading! I can't wait.