Mr. Beer Homebrewing kit

[fretlessman71]

OK, don't LAUGH at me, but I'm actually considering getting one of these all-in-one kits that includes the keg, ingredients, directions, and so on. I don't expect to come up with amazing beer; I just want to go through the process once with a kit that offers a helping hand before I tackle a real brew. What I want to know is: Is anyone even remotely familiar with this brand? Anyone think I'm making a huge mistake? I'm on a VERY limited budget, and sometimes it's all I can do to come up with a few dollars to buy a Guinness. The entire kit sells for $30, and I know that the equipment for doing "real" homebrew can cost far more than that if you get serious. PLEASE!!!! I want to start brewing, but... should I wait?

[shughes600]

I would be extremely surprised to see you get a COMPLETE kit with ingredients for $30. Especially a kit with a keg. Get a list of everything you are getting in this kit. The kits i have seen usually start around $55 plus ingredients.

[fretlessman71]

It was on sale at Dillard's, of all places. Tucked waaaaay in the back.... This is what it was: http://shop.store.yahoo.com/mrbeer/noname9.html

[shughes600]

I can't comment on the quality of the product. I have heard people at homebrew stores snicker when this kit is mentioned. I can say this. If you are looking to buy this to expand into brewing you are looking at the wrong thing. Ingredient kits for a homebrewer are engineered for 5 gallon batches. Technically all of these kits could be split in half for use in your fermenter, but then you have the hassel of storing ingredients. Very little in this kit will be useable when you decide to move up.

Please seek more comments on the quality of the beer from these kits.

[cyanide]

Hey, I just started homebrewing too and considered that route as well.

I went out and got a pail with a spigot, airlock and lid for like $15, it was all I needed to brew. I also bought a kit for brewing 5 gallons of beer for $14. I bottled it in glass and plastic jugs and it seemed to come out fine.

Most beer recipes I've are for 5 gallon batches, but like has been said, you can always half the recipe.

It really comes down to whether or not you really want to get into this hobby. Boiling 5 gallons of water and cooking wort and then having to make sure everything is very sterile is no easy task. It's a simple thing, but it is time consuming.

A lot of the Mr. Beer kit seems to be reusable. If you decide that you don't mind the work and like the rewards, you can always move to better equipment and still use the bottles that came with it. Even the fermenter might be of some use if you only wanted to brew a half batch of something.

I think there are some folks ere that also started with one. Hopefully they'll say if the product is any good or not.

[Tom C]

You do not necessarily have to boil all 5 gallons of wort at one time especially if you do not have the equipment or space (i.e. kitchen stove). You can boil the wort per the directions of the recipe with half amount of the water (2.5 gallons) and then add water to the carboy until you reach a 5.5 gallon mark. This will also help in two areas for first time brewers: 1) if you use hose to fill carboy it helps airate the wort (good for the yeast) 2) it will assist in bringing the temp of a boiling wort down quicker allowing faster pitching rates and less chance of infection.

I know the lhbs around here sell beginners kits for 50 around here this includes 2 6.5 food grade containers (one with spigot), raking cane, tube, bottle capper, bottle caps, lids, airlocks, cleaner, bottle washing brush, introduction book and an extract kit using dry yeast that makes 5 gallon. For the extra 20 it is defintly worth the upgrade.

Do not knock extract brewing. Many people start there and never go to all grain because of the great beer they make with extract. Many local competitions have winners that are all extract. I started all extract last year and now am an all grain brewer but only could do so because my neighbor also brews and has a wealth of equipment. As each day passes my inventory of equipment grows, but would not have been able to do all that is necessary for all grain brewing in one shot. Actually if it is good beer you are looking for and don't quite feel comfortable with all aspects of brewing extract brewing is the way to go. You are virtually certain to make a great drinker each time. Let us know how it foes.

Tom C

[paul84043]

My brother in law started with the Mr.Beer kit, they actually make decent beer, still way better than store bought stuff.

It's not really comparable to the next step in homebrewing, but it is very easy and it works.
Give it a shot, you've got nothing to lose since it sounds like you already bought the kit? I don't remember these kits costing much more than 30$ around here.
You can even re-use some soda bottles if you really want to go cheap, though it may be in your best interests to purchase some new caps.

[Fast_Eddy]

My first brew was one of the all in one kit brews...my wife gave it to me as a stocking stuffer at Christmas. It came with a rubbery, clear plastic tankard (3 gallons, I think), some dried yeast, some dme, some crystal malt. I remember it called on using table sugar for priming. The beer came out terrible!!

Retrospectively, I think I could've made good beer with it but the instructions sucked,sucked,sucked. So if you get(use) the Mr Beer Kit come here with questions if the instructions seem vague or confusing - and don't use table sugar in your brew.

[fuji6100]

I also started off with the Mr. Beer kit. The ingredients and instructions that came with it totally sucked. My first beer tasted like vinegar cider.

That's when I started browsing online and really doing research on the subject. I succesfully used the Mr. Beer "fermenter" to make smaller 2.5 gallon batches after reading a lot of "How To" online and got very decent (but still not great) beer.

After my 3rd batch, I took the plunge and bought the 6.7 gallon plastic fermenting bucket, 5 gallon secondary bucket, 2 cases of used bottles (at $5 a case), some caps, a capper, A few extract kits, DME, corn sugar, and some hop pellets. Now I was making GOOD beer.

After a few batches of that, I stepped up to using specialty grains and now I make GREAT beer.

That was my experience. A lot of online stores have great "startup" kits for around $60 so if this is a hobby that you think you will stick with, why waste $30 up front just to "try it out."

Here is where I order my items, as this is one of the closest stores that delivers to me. I spent more because I bought my supplies/equiptment one or two at a time. Getting the kit would have cut my cost in half.

http://www.ubrewit.com/skits.asp

Hope that helps!

[cyanide]

Originally posted by Tom C
You do not necessarily have to boil all 5 gallons of wort at one time especially if you do not have the equipment or space (i.e. kitchen stove). You can boil the wort per the directions of the recipe with half amount of the water (2.5 gallons) and then add water to the carboy until you reach a 5.5 gallon mark. This will also help in two areas for first time brewers: 1) if you use hose to fill carboy it helps airate the wort (good for the yeast) 2) it will assist in bringing the temp of a boiling wort down quicker allowing faster pitching rates and less chance of infection.

What I meant was, boiling the water seperately and then adding the wort. Do most brewers not even bother with boiling all their water? That would seem to be a big risk.

[b3s]

i wouldn't touch a mr. beer kit with a 33 and-a-half foot pole. i shied away from brewing my own beer because of a mr. beer kit beer. it is my personal belief that either this kit is produced by, or used by, the sudbidiary of A-B responsible for natural light.

then i read john palmer's online book (http://www.howtobrew.com). you don't need kits or any of that nonsense. the first chapter tells you what to do (not why, just the steps) and what you need. after doing that i found that i had produced the third best beer i ever drank! and it was less expensive per bottle than 3-year old hamm's.

the rest of palmer's book gives you the whys and wherefores. papazian's book is similar in nature -- just do this, then i'll tell ya why later on.

[Tom C]

Originally posted by cyanide
What I meant was, boiling the water seperately and then adding the wort. Do most brewers not even bother with boiling all their water? That would seem to be a big risk.

Yes some people add water to the carboy at the end of the boil to reach a 5.5 gallon primary without boiling the water. Unless your water is not a good source of tap it should be fine because everything else is sterlized.

Tom C

[fretlessman71]

Thanks for the good replies, folks...

Now, another thing that was attractive to me about this kit was the KEG. Call me lazy, but I'm not crazy about bottling. I remember how much I hated it the last time, and like the idea of having a small keg in the fridge ready to pour me a beer whenever I'm ready for it. Thoughts?

[paul84043]

I personally boil all the water I use, or I use sore bought purified water.
I'll typically boil 4 gallons the day before I brew and pour it into milk jugs while it's still in excess of 180F, this sterilizes everything. The next day when I need it, it's all cool, clean and ready to go.

I use this as my "top off" water. The water I use on brewing day I bring to a boil for 5 to 10 minutes, let cool to steeping temp, steep grains, add malt, then bring to boil again.

[S.F.B.]

Kegging is definitely the way to go for convenience. I keg 80% of the beers I brew. Bottling only takes about 45 minutes but kegging only takes me the time to syphon the beer and purge the keg with cO2.

[paul84043]

The problem I have with kegging is that I have nowhere to put then to keep them cold. I don't have a chest freezer (yet).
I tried a Party pig the other day, it seemed very easy to use and will fit in my refrigerator...

[b3s]

i use the tap-a-draft (http://www.defalcos.com/tapadraft.htm) system. inexpensive and works great. i also use ez-cap (grolsch-style) bottles, which makes bottling go by very quickly. i only use standard bottles for either handing out some of my beers or, in the case of the larger bottles, for setting aside for long term storage (i have a 4-5 week turn-around on my beers, even though you should age them longer...but i get thirsty ;) ).

and yeah, you really should give all of your water a 15 minute boil, or at least 15 minutes at pasteurization temps (180F) before use. before i got my wort chiller i use to bring my wort down to temp with ice...made from water i boiled the night before...and when i do extract brewing i'll top off the carboy with pre-boiled (and chilled) water.

[cyanide]

Originally posted by fretlessman71
Thanks for the good replies, folks...

Now, another thing that was attractive to me about this kit was the KEG. Call me lazy, but I'm not crazy about bottling. I remember how much I hated it the last time, and like the idea of having a small keg in the fridge ready to pour me a beer whenever I'm ready for it. Thoughts?

Isn't the "keg" actually just the fermenter? I thought you brewed your beer in there and then bottled it.

[b3s]

no, usually you brew in either food grade plastic buckets, glass carboys, or conical fermenters. usually there are two fermentors. the primary is used for about 80% of the fermentation process (1 week, approx.), you then transfer to a secondary for the secondary fermentation, which is generally all about beer clarity (about 2+ weeks). you then keg or bottle and allow to condition for two weeks.

the reason you use two fermenters is so you don't have sour beer. you want to get the beer off of the trub, or settled yeast before it gets off flavors.

if you use a conical fermentor, then you don't rack, or transfer, the beer. you just release the trub (settled proteins, yeast, etc.

[cyanide]

Er, I knew all that, I seemed to have quoted the wrong person. I thought the Mr. Beer "keg" was just a fermenter. Sorry for any confusion!

I went back and put the correct quote in :)

[Dave A]

The Mr. Beer "keg" is indeed just a fermentor, a barrel shaped bucket with a spigot.
I also started with a Mr. Beer, like anything else it has it's pros and cons. It is no match for a 5 gallon kit and is somewhat less flexible, but to say that it is not possible to make excellent beer with one makes me wonder about the brewer, not the kit.
Cons;
This kit is for single step fermentation only, ferment for a week (or so) and bottle right out of the "keg".
There are a limited number of kit choices, although for a beginner you should be ok for a few years before that becomes a problem.
Almost nothing can be used once you move up to 5 gallon batches.
Higher cost per bottle.
Pros;
It's EASY to make GOOD beer, the pale ale kit that comes with the kit is at least the equal of Sam Adams and many of their other kits will blow away any store bought beer.
It's easy to experiment wher you're only doing 8.5 quart batches, if you screw up it's only 19 bottles.
Low start-up cost, your first batch for $30!

ADDED: In my own case, I gave my dad a Mr. Beer a few years ago when neither of us knew the first thing about brewing beer. He's had alot of fun with it and still uses it (I helped him bottle a batch Sunday while down there for a visit). My wife noticed that I enjoyed brewing with him and got me my own Mr. Beer for Christmas, she has since helped me with a few batches and it is a hobby we now enjoy together.
Being a little more internet saavy than my dad, I started looking into the homebrew hobby online and discovered all the great stuff that's out there. I've found this site, sources for supplies and all the other stuff that you all know about. With each kit I ordered for the little brew keg, I added a few items that could help me move into the homebrew mainstream, first a capper and caps so I could get away from the soda bottles (I still use both), then a hydrometer and a bottling bucket, then a lid and airlock for the bucket. At that point I could do a 5 gallon batch in the bucket, same way Mr. Beer kits do it (single ferment only), but it's a start. I have since added a carboy, decent thermometer, etc., etc. and can do the real deal (well extract anyway, but I'll get to grain sooner or later).

If you do go this route I can pass on a few tips. The "beer kits" are 1.21 lb of hopped malt extract with a package of dry yeast. They will recomend adding additional fermentables and give you a number of options, 1) Table sugar, we all know better but dad did his first batch this way and it was better tha coors at least, 2) "booster" is a combination of DME and corn sugar (I used this my first batch, see above), 3)Extract, Mr. Beer also sells 1.21 lb cans of unhopped malt extract in a number of styles (most of my beer since has used this option), 4)Fruit, Cherry, etc are available from Mr. Beer in correct sized cans, 6)Honey, I've never tried it but they do mention it in the book.
I'll add my own #6, there is also no reason that you couldn't use DME, I did a couple batches that way and it came out great. I have even tried to create my own receipe, as I mentioned above it isn't that big a deal to try something new when you are only making 19 bottles at a time.
Next tip, yeast, just like larger kits you will get a packet of dry ale yeast (recommended for use between 68 and 75 degrees, room temp = EASY for beginners), there is no rule that says you can't use liquid, for 8.5 quarts a starter isn't really important (just pitch, again EASY)
There are 6-8 "kits", a similar number of choices of unhopped extract, 4 fruits, add your own hops, honey, etc., you could do 100 batches without doing the same one twice, you can choose ingredients that are equal in quality to what is used by everyone else here, you will also need to learn the same things about cleaning and sanitation that every other beginner has to learn. It comes down to this, With a little common sense a Mr. Beer "kit" can be as good as any other beginner "kit", and a beginner is less likely to end up with something that was not meant for a beginner. If your first batch comes out poorly with Mr Beer, it is most likely your fault and you would have probably screwed up a 5 gallon batch too, you can't blame a plastic bucket for a bad batch just because of it's size, shape and a brand name. If you want to get your feet wet and all you want to spend is $30, it's an option and it isn't any worse than any other option.

It's a small hobby, there aren't alot of brew shops around and some of them are barely keeping the lights on, anything that gets people into this hobby is a good thing!

[fuji6100]

Yup, Dave A is correct. The "Keg" that comes with Mr. Beer is only a fermenter. It has 2 slots under the "cap" that vent CO2 so you can't carbinate in it.

[fretlessman71]

Glad you mentioned this. I wouldn't have caught it until I had spent my $30. Guess I'll have to save up more of my pennies before I venture forth.

[Dave A]

Originally posted by fretlessman71
Glad you mentioned this. I wouldn't have caught it until I had spent my $30. Guess I'll have to save up more of my pennies before I venture forth.
I did a LOT more typing while you were reading the first part, You may want to look again!

[paul84043]

Well, I guess the consensus is that Mr. Beer sucks....
You really don't have to spend very much to get a super budget starter kit. You'll be replacing alot of it in time, but it will work perfectly in the short term.
A plastic bucket primary 6$
, either no secondary, a plastic bucket secondary, or even a regular glass carboy secondary. 15$ max
Bottling bucket 6$,
I still recommend the autosiphon. 9$
You don't even need a hydrometer if you just wait long enough and go by the visual signs.
There are still a host of odds and ends, a special spoon if you're using a carboy. A large brewing funnel.
If you keep your quantities lower, you can boil on the stove, but watch out for the evil boil over...or do one of the 5 gallon "no boil" kits and pick up a pot and burner later.
You could be in business for around 60 to 70$ making good beer.

You can even put off purchasing some parts while you're in your primary, that would push it out more than a week.

[fuji6100]

Hey b3s,

I was just looking at the tap-a-draft system. Very nice setup, I'm actually thinking of getting one of these. I don't see replacement Co2 cartridges on the defalco's site... only Nitrogen? Am I just missing the link?

[b3s]

they are standard 8gr CO2 cartridges. just about every paint store (err, liquor store) and brew supply place has them it seems. i think even my local targét has them.

and it works like a champ. i really like the system a lot...it's not real kegging, but it works for my limited space and budget :)

[fuji6100]

Another question for you B3s.

I noticed on the link you provided that they recommend using a heaping tablespoon of sugar to carbinate the 2 tap-a-draft bottles you aren't using.

Does that amount work for you?

Can you naturally carbinate all 3? I know the system only comes with 2 lids and the dispensing lid, so does the dispensing lid seal well enough so that you could potentially naturally carbinate all 3?

I was pretty impressed with the cost and space effeciency of this setup so I ordered one !

[b3s]

well, i tend to use 1/2 cup of corn sugar (crap just lasts forever) or 1.25 cups of dme in a 5 gallon batch boiled in a pint of water and tossed into the bottling bucket before racking.

i fill 2 6-liter bottles and about 12 16-oz. ez caps from that. i probably over carbonate for the tap-a-draft, but i bottle as well, so i want to be sure the bottles are ok. the first two pours out of the tap-a-draft are 3/4 foam, but after that the pours are great.

i suspect that if i put the tablespoon of sugar into the bottles and then, after filling them put the heavy wort or syrup into the bottling bucket i would be ok.

i really must affirm the marketing claims...the CO2 is there only to maintain pressure, because i have yet to detect a difference in taste between the tap-a-draft and bottles (i put a bottle in the fridge and did a taste test).

one difference i do make from their method is that i cap all of the 6-litre bottles and store for 10 days (about as long as i can stand it...some much time so few carboys!).

[EBW]

Okay, I got a Mr. Beer kit for Christmas. I have boiled every ounce of fluid going into the beer along with the LME. Anyone who has studied this site or papazian's books should know that you boil everything. I do want to point out that the instructions forbid the use of corn sugar to bottle with, but instead instruct the brewer to use "Table Sugar". I am going to use corn sugar just because I have no DME readily available. My advice to people starting is to get The Complete Joy of Home Brewing 3rd ed. and read most of it at least before brewing anything. I also realize that Frett started this post long ago and he knows more about beer than I ever will. So I aim this comment to the new suckers like myself who typed Mr.Beer in the search window. I'll inform you how it turns out as soon as I get done. EBW:p

[fretlessman71]

Best of luck with that Mr Beer kit! From what I understand, if you follow the instructions to a T, you should be able to make more than just passable beer. Sounds like fun!

By the way, just because I have a s#*tpile of posts does NOT mean that I know any more about beer than anyone else, or even PRETEND to know more about beer than anyone else. It's just that for about a year I couldn't shut up about it! ;)

[EBW]

Okay, I said I wasn't going to use "table sugar" but instead I said I would use corn sugar. I was thinking about what Fret last said and so I followed the instructions to a T. I used "table sugar" and I have just opened the first bottle of West Coast Pale Ale. The smell was similar to banannas, and the tast was sweet, with just a hint of a cider taste. It turned out much better than I ever expected. I am going to brew an Irish Stout next. I'll keep you all posted.

[fretlessman71]

That's terrific! I'll be looking for my "thank-you" beer in the mail any day now.... :D

[BrewDog]

EBW-

I started with a Mr. Beer kit for Christmas a couple years ago. Now I'm doing all-grain. Please trust me on this:

Next time, try adjusting these 4 things:

1) Instead of adding sugar to the boil, add 1 can of unhopped liquid malt extract. That's what's causing the cidery taste. (It's ok to bottle with the sugar, though corn sugar will yield better taste than table sugar). Use pale LME for the West Coast Pale Ale. Use Dark LME for the Stout. You can get some directly from the Mr. Beer web site if you don't already have some on hand.

2) You probably fermented too hot. Try to keep the fermentation just below 70. Hot fermentation yields banana and other fruity flavors.

3) Make sure you aerate the hell out of the wort (after chilling it to ferm temps) before you pitch your yeast. Underoxygenated wort will contribute to fruity flavors, too. A sanitized whisk works great for this.

4) Let it sit for 2 weeks in the fermenter instead of only 1 week before bottling. This will help elminate the sweet tastes.

Then let us know how that batch compares with the first.

HTH-

[fretlessman71]

Hey - how much beer does this Mr. Beer unit yield for a standard batch? You've got me thinking hard about getting one for this tiny little apartment here....

[BrewDog]

Fret-
2 gallons.

[fretlessman71]

BrewDog-
Thanks.

;)

[EBW]

Thanks for all of the tips brew dog. I have decided to let the rest of this batch sit for at least one more week in the bottle. Will that help? Fret, I'll send you some beer when I can brew some that is better. I have had a blast brewing thus far and I can tell that with all of the advice I'm getting, I'll soon be on my way to bigger and better methods and equipment. If I'm real lucky I'll be able to have a small brewpub someday.
Thanks again!!!
EBW

[EBW]

This stuff is getting better the longer I let it sit in the bottle. It's much less sweet.

[BrewDog]

Patience, Grasshopper!
Funny how that works, isn't it? THAT'S the difference between young and properly aged beer.

Give it yet ANOTHER week, and I'd bet it's even better.

[EBW]

Okay I'm going to try the LME instead of the booster. I am making Irish Stout this time. I bought the Creamy Brown LME which is the darkest they had at the store. Thanks for the good info Brew dog!! I think this will turn out real good.

[EBW]

Can I use the booster that comes with the kit as priming sugar? The ingredients say that it has Dextrose (corn Sugar), and 100% natural maltodextrins (brewers high grade maltose corn syrup solids). Is this a good idea?

[BrewDog]

Don't. Use corn sugar instead. Booster won't fully carbonate.

[fretlessman71]

What if I sprinkle the booster over my Special K? Will I carbonate? ;)

[BrewDog]

Nah, but you might flatulate ;)

[Jay]

After my first brew with my Mr Beer, which was quite successful, I emailed Mr. beer. I told them what kind of beer I like and they recommended a recipe from their list. (tried to squeeze it in so I'd have it for the game, but it wont be ready)
BTW I like the mr beer kit because it will fit in my tiny apartment, I dont have a garage to store it in.

Anyone else use their "recipies" to brew good ones?

[EBW]

Are there any special things I must do to get the stout i'm brewing with my mr. beer kit to taste like guiness draught? Is there any way to get the same lower rate carbonation in my homebrew?
thanks,
EBW

[Jay]

Have you tried emailing Mr. Beer?

Would love to brew up my own Guiness as well, interested to know your results. Good Luck.

[EBW]

I haven't tried emailing them, but I will. I'll let you know what they tell me. I just brewed a recipe for golden harp ale. It is posted on their web site in the recipe section. I didn't have fuggles hops though, so I substituted it with Northern Brewer hops instead. I know the bittering units are higher with Northern, so I used about 1/4 oz. instead of 1/3 oz. If it turns out too hoppy that will be okay with me. I'm kind of a hop lover anyway.