pickle brass

[drp53188]

any body know how to pickle brass, i`m building a 15.5 gal. fermenter but the bulkhead fitting for the dump valve has a brass
nut that will be inside the keg.
I dont know if the lead content is a factor or not!
thanks Don

[toneyc]

Courtesy of John Palmer:

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB.html

5th paragraph.

:)
Toney.

[drp53188]

thanks toney thats what i was looking for.

[Grog]

Is this a true bulkhead or an improvised one?

If improvised, what size NPT?

-G-

[drp53188]

The fitting is a weld be gone with a 1/2 npt the only thing thats
brass is the nut on the inside of the keg. normal installation has the nut on the outside but the fitting is too long that way.

Don

[Grog]

A 7/8"-14 (UNF) hex nut (jam nuts are better) can be had in SS and is nearly the same diameter and has the same thread pitch. It fits a bit loose, but if you are using it strictly as backing anchor it works very well. This is how I have mounted all of my weldless fittings. If you need one PM me and I can send you one.

-G-

[drp53188]

grog now that I look at it I`m thinking of welding a 1/2" nipple
to the bottom of the keg.
The way i have it know i cannot dump all the dead yeast the
fitting sits about 3/4" off the bottom of the keg what do you think? Thanks Don

[Grog]

I think the flat bottom of the keg will result in a large amount of beer loss and will not remove all of the yeast & trub like a conical uni-tank fermenter will. I believe the slope of the conical is made for the purpose of concentrating all of the aftermath from brewing into a small space to minimize beer loss, but you would have to ask someone in the know, maybe one of the pros on this board would be a better advisor.

I am going to convert one of my 15.5 gallon kegs into a primary basically the same way you had originally intended, but I will still transfer to a secondary and leave the yeast and trub behind on the bottom.

-G-