View Full Version : More chest freezer possibilities?
chainduck
06-22-2004, 01:57 AM
Just pondering...was wanting some input on an idea.
I want to keep my kegerator as small as possible and still hold a half barrel. The small chest freezer that I have now (holding food) would be exactly the right size for a half barrel and CO2 save for the compressor step at the bottom.
So, my thought is this...
What if, instead of just building a short collar for the taps, I build an additional 12'' insulated collar to make room for the halfbarrel sitting on top of the step? I could add additional foam insulation and seal the cracks with silicone if necessary.
Does anyone think that this would work...or would the additional height not keep cold enough? I know there will be some temperature variance, but how much?
If it works, it would save me a lot of floorspace compared to buying a larger freezer. And, I could place the faucets higher up as well.
Ideally, the hinge could be mounted to the wooden collar so that the collar and lid open together to aid in pulling the keg out. Of course, that would mean that the faucet line would dangle down when the lid was opened.
Thoughts?
chainduck
06-22-2004, 01:59 AM
Just to add a thought...
I suppose you could mount the faucets to the side as opposed to mounting them opposite the hinge...that way the lines would be out of the way.
chainduck
06-22-2004, 02:18 AM
Okay, since I'm thinking out loud....
Is there any reason why you couldn't just do away with the freezer lid entirely and rebuild one out of 1/4 or 3/8" exterior plywood, and then insulate it with 2" foam?
I mean, if it seals all the way around the edge and is lightweight, does if have to even be hinged? I'm thinking of a lid like a shoebox.
"Pinky, are you pondering what I'm pondering?..."
threecb
06-22-2004, 07:49 AM
Originally posted by chainduck
"Pinky, are you pondering what I'm pondering?..."
"Uh, I think so, Brain, but where will we find a duck and a hose at this hour?"
HiRichRules
06-22-2004, 04:46 PM
It sounds like you are going to go through alot of modification to a fridge to try to make a square peg fit into a round hole. If you know alot about refrigerators and freezers then maybe you get what you are trying to do to work. But if you could do that then you are probably skilled enough to build your own fridge out of wood or something and then add the compressor to it. I wouldn't try it, but with your approach you are almost half way there.
chainduck
06-22-2004, 04:55 PM
Actually, I think building a fridge is a great idea...but I have no idea what has to be done for that. The compressors already in the freezer...so I've got a base to work with.
I'm just thinking of adding a taller lid so that the half barrel will fit.
I was hoping someone might have some thoughts about how effective this would be.
I don't actually want to have to run my own coils and compressor. But, I am handy enough with wood to make an insulated box.
Something similar to this has been done before. I have a website at home that shows a similar modifications I will see if I can remember to post it later.
chainduck
06-22-2004, 05:23 PM
Thanks Jeff, that would be great.
Any other suggestions would be most welcome as well!
toneyc
06-22-2004, 05:25 PM
Originally posted by HiRichRules
It sounds like you are going to try to make a square peg fit into a round hole.
Technically, that would be a long round peg in a short square hole...
:)
Toney.
chainduck
06-22-2004, 05:34 PM
Well...errrr...yes....
That's what I thought this thread was all about...LOL
If we, the DYI'ers and beer drinkers of the world don't improvise with odd shaped pegs and hole modifications, well then I suppose we should just go ahead and buy commercial units and call it a day....LOL!
So, keep the thoughts coming! I'm sure there's someone with a crazy idea that will work. ;)
Let me just start by saying that 1) I already have this freezer. and 2) I don't have $400 to spend on commercial unit.
So, I'm trying to make use of what I have......
toneyc
06-22-2004, 05:45 PM
Here's the link that I think was referenced above:
http://www.oregonbrewcrew.com/freezer/freezer.html
:)
Toney.
chainduck
06-22-2004, 05:52 PM
Thanks,
Yeah, I had seen this one...but, it's still just a 4" collar. Although the 1x10" makes it look like more.
That is what I had in mind for the most part....only with a taller collar to accomodate the half barrel.
What I'm wondering, is if having the upper 8 inches of the halfbarrel sticking up about the old freezer top, will make a really detrimental effect on the overall cooling....since there won't be any coils in the wooden collar.
I haven't seen anyone go this route yet.....
Of course, I need to measure to get the exact collar that would be required. I'll do that tonight.
chainduck
06-22-2004, 05:53 PM
I suppose one good thing with the collar approach is that if (Heaven Forbid!) you should ever get tired of having a kegerator, you can always just take the collar and temp control off, and have a freezer again.
danno
06-22-2004, 10:43 PM
chainduck, you're absolutely right, a 12" collar on top of a chest freezer will work just fine, go for it. remember, you pour your beer from the bottom of the keg, not the top...
don't forget when you measure to consider the tap...
the chest freezer I picked up (free) had a lid that wouldn't come off, (internal, counterweighted hinges instead of external ones), so I built a wedge shaped collar instead, and, as you say, I can go back to a standard freezer in 5 minutes just by sliding off the wedge collar...
http://www.boomspeed.com/danno/collar.jpg
chainduck
06-23-2004, 01:01 AM
thank you! That helps alot. :)
I had completely forgotten that the coldest point at the bottom would be where I was pouring from.
So, even if there is a ten degree variance from top to bottom, I should still get cold beer. Good news!
Well, it just so happens that a friend of mine gave me some 1/2 inch thick mahogany planking that is a full 12 inches wide. So, if I dare risk my handiwork on that, I'll have a very pretty collar.
Now, I just need to come up with the rest of the cash for my taps and faucets.....
I'll keep everyone posted on progress.
Thanks again!
chainduck
06-23-2004, 01:04 AM
Errr....one more question then...
How much more room is needed from the top of the keg to the lid, to allow for a standard sankey tap?
danno
06-23-2004, 07:49 AM
Eric, I have one of these (http://rapidswholesale.net/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RWOCAS&Product_Code=FT86P&Category_Code=BETAP) and I'd allow at least 6". you could cut that down to probably 4" with something like this (http://rapidswholesale.net/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RWOCAS&Product_Code=FT43&Category_Code=BETAP) instead...
chainduck
06-23-2004, 12:30 PM
Thanks!
I was planning to leave a 5" clearance....
If I can stretch that a little, (with the materials that I have) I will.
I'd rather not have to buy the more expensive tap. But, on the other hand, a few extra bucks for the low profile, might be worth it compared to the cost of finding additional width wood.
The mahogany that I have is left over from a friend's boat restoration....so it should be fairly rot resistant. Even so, I'm going to coat it well with polyurethane prior to use.
I haven't decided whether or not to completely replace the original lid or not. My main reason being to decrease the overall weight. Of course, a light weight wooden lid will not be as strong as the original. Nor, will it be as simple to keep clean.
Another possibility would be to make the collar with no actual attachments to the freezer or lid, so that the lid sits in the collar, but can be lifted off easily. That way both lid and collar can be removed easily for cleaning and getting the keg in and out.
Mainly, I don't want to modify the actual original metal lid of the freezer if I don't need to.
evilredlight
06-23-2004, 01:02 PM
You could also add a small fan to move and mix the air from the top and bottom.
You will use more power to keep this unit cool but it should work fine.
O2 Mash
06-23-2004, 01:21 PM
Originally posted by chainduck
Well, it just so happens that a friend of mine gave me some 1/2 inch thick mahogany planking that is a full 12 inches wide. So, if I dare risk my handiwork on that, I'll have a very pretty collar.
Yikes!! I'd hate to see that nice wood go onto an old fridge. Why don't you use plywood and send the Mahogony to me :D
chainduck
06-23-2004, 01:34 PM
Well, you certainly are of the same opinion as me....can't decide whether to risk the mahogany or just get some exterior grade plywood.
I do think that the mahogany will be pretty with the dark red wood offset from the white paint on the freezer.
I figure that I might as well try and make it look nice...not that it will matter after a hundred of my friends come over and start spilling beer everywhere....DOH!
I am planning to use plywood for the rear (hinge) collar board for the added strength.
Also, I was wanting a recommendation for the best glue to use considering the temperature differences. I was thinking a urethane glue, or perhaps just silicone.
If I actually manage to get this thing built any time soon, I'll make sure to take pics of the construction.
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