India Pale Ale

[Fast_Eddy]

BJCP Style Guidelines

14a: English IPA
14b: American IPA
14c: Imperial IPA

http://www.bjcp.org/styles04/Category14.html

[Sunriver]

MY IPA

7 Lbs English 2-row
2 Lbs American 2-row
1 Lbs 90L Crystal
1 Lbs Munich
.5 lbs 40L Crystal
.5 Lbs Flaked Barley
American Ale yeast/English ale yeast

2 oz Centennial
3 oz Cascade

2 oz Centennial 80 min
1 oz cascade 30 min
1 oz Cascade 5 min

7 days primary
14 days Secondary (Dry hop 1 oz Cascade PELLETS)
Bottle/Keg

For a Extract Version replace:
7 Lbs English 2-row
2 Lbs American 2-row
WITH
8 Lbs liquid x-pale extract or
7 Lbs Light DME

Steep malts for 30 min (155 prefered)

[MARK123]

My Fav Lagunitas clone:
For 5 gallons
13# English pale malt(maris otter)
1/2 # carapils
1/2 lb wheat malt
1/2 lb caramel malt
1 oz centenial 1 hour
1 oz columbus 30 minutes
1 oz cascade 10 minutes
1 oz cascade 3 minutes
1 oz cascade dry hopped
wyeast 1056 yeast
Mashed in my cube cooler 1 hour at 152 degrees
sparged for 45 minutes with 168 degree
og was 1.073
fg 1.012
ibu's 73
9 days primary
3 weeks secondary
Full of flavor!!! Not too bitter. Reminds me of a cross between lagunitas ipa and pyramid's!!!

[the4th]

St. Arnold's Elissa IPA Clone

7.5lbs British Light Malt Extract
2lbs British Pale Malt
1lb Cara Vienne Malt

1 3/4oz Cascades Hops 45min
1oz Cascades Hops 10min
1/2oz Cascades Hops 0min

3/4 oz Cascades Hops Dry Hop

White Labs English Ale Yeast

----

Steep the specialty grain in water pot... remove just before the boil. Turn off heat and add extact, return pot to boil. Follow hop schedule, cool, pitch yeast, ferment, bottle, enjoy.

[Wolf359]

Double Dry Hopped Damned Caliche IPA

Malt
8lbs light DME
1lb Marris Otter pale 2 row
1/4lb Crystal 10L
1/4lb Honey malt
1/4lb Munich

Hops (all whole leaf)
1oz Warrior @ 90 min
1oz Chinook @ 45 min
1oz Centennial @ 10 min
1oz Cascade @ 5 min
1oz Columbus @ flame out
dry hopped w/ 1oz Columbus & 1oz Cascade for 4 days
dry hopped w/ 2oz Amarillo for the next 4 days

Yeast
Whitelabs California Ale Yeast

This turned out deep golden in color, with a smooth bitterness, and a huge grapefruity hop flavor and aroma. I really love this brew.

[Binko]

My favorite American IPA so far, crisp, clean, and refreshing, with lots of citrus-pine hops. If you want more of an East Coast IPA hop balance, you might want to add an extra pound or two of plain light dry malt extract to this.

8 lbs Alexander's Amber malt extract
1/2—1 lb crystal malt (40 Lovibond)
2 tsp gypsum

1 oz Columbus (60 min)
1/2 oz Centennial (30 min)
1 oz Centennial (4 min)

2 oz Cascade (dry hop)

White Labs California Ale Yeast W001

S.G. Not recorded

Steep crushed crystal malt in a grain bag in 2-3 gallons of water with gypsum added. Bring temp up to 170F. Remove grain bag. Bring to boil. Finish as usual.

Primary fermentation @ 68F for five days
Secondary @64-66F two weeks (w/ 2 oz Cascade)
Bottle with 3/4 cup corn sugar.

[BitterRat]

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (Gal): 5.00
Est. IBU: 291.0
Est. OG: 1.073 Plato: 17.74


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
85.5 10.00 lbs. Marris Otter Great Britain 1.038 2
6.0 0.70 lbs. CaraPils Great Britain 1.035 20
2.1 0.25 lbs. Crystal 40L America 1.034 40
6.4 0.75 lbs. Corn Sugar Generic 1.046 0

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.50 oz. Chinook Whole 13.00 47.7 Mash H
2.75 oz. Warrior Whole 15.60 150.0 90 min.
0.50 oz. Columbus Whole 12.20 21.3 90 min.
1.00 oz. Simcoe Whole 12.00 36.0 45 min.
1.00 oz. Columbus Whole 14.30 35.9 30 min.
2.25 oz. Centennial Whole 10.10 0.0 0 min.
1.00 oz. Simcoe Whole 12.30 0.0 0 min.
1.00 oz. Columbus Whole 15.80 0.0 Dry Hop
0.75 oz. Centennial Whole 10.10 0.0 Dry Hop
1.25 oz. Simcoe Whole 12.30 0.0 Dry Hop


Extras

Amount Name Type Time
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.00 Unit(s)Whirlfloc Fining 15 Min.(boil)


Yeast
-----

BrewTek CL-260 Canadian Ale


Mash Schedule
-------------

Mash Type: Single Step

Grain Lbs: 10.95
Water Qts: 15.00 - Before Additional Infusions
Water Gal: 3.75 - Before Additional Infusions

Qts Water Per Lbs Grain: 1.37 - Before Additional Infusions

Saccharification Rest Temp : 152 Time: 60
Mash-out Rest Temp : 168 Time: 15
Sparge Temp : 166 Time: 60

All temperature measurements are degrees Fahrenheit.

[HarkJohnny]

^

Looks like a hop schedule on a 60 minute clone to me!

[BitterRat]

Originally posted by HarkJohnny
^

Looks like a hop schedule on a 60 minute clone to me!
Actually a take off of Pliny The Elder, from Russian River in Cal.
BTW, if you want a true clone of this, you would be better served by using domestic 2 row and American ale yeast!

[Grog]

I brewed this 2 weeks ago and transfered to the 2ndry this weekend. After 2 weeks in the primary this thing is ready to drink. Smooth and crystal clear, it's a bit out of style, but it tastes great! (I've drank the 1/2 gallon that I had left over in the primary).

UK IPA

A ProMash Brewing Session - Recipe Details Report

BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------

14-A India Pale Ale, English IPA

Min OG: 1.050 Max OG: 1.075
Min IBU: 40 Max IBU: 60
Min Clr: 8 Max Clr: 14 Color in SRM, Lovibond

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (Gal): 5.50 Wort Size (Gal): 5.50
Total Grain (Lbs): 14.25
Anticipated OG: 1.073 Plato: 17.64
Anticipated SRM: 7.4
Anticipated IBU: 70.7
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75 %
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
8.8 1.25 lbs. Corn Sugar Generic
84.2 12.00 lbs. ESB Malt Gambrinus
3.5 0.50 lbs. Crystal 10L Breiss
3.5 0.50 lbs. Crystal 20L Breiss

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.50 oz. Goldings Whole 5.00 27.2 First WH
2.00 oz. Goldings Whole 5.00 36.6 60 min.
0.50 oz. Goldings Whole 5.00 2.4 15 min.
1.50 oz. Goldings Whole 5.00 4.6 1 min.


Yeast
-----

WYeast 1968 London Extra Special Bitter


I also threw 2 oz of Goldings in the keg as dryhops.

[Lupulinitus]

For the hophead.

Batch #102
Lupulin Gang IPA
10 Gallons

22lbs Briess Pale Malt
2lbs Best Crystal 30L
1lb Muntons carapils 20L

Hops:
In Mash: 2oz Amarillo8%/1oz Simcoe12% (pellets)
Boil: 2oz Yakima14.4%
Last25: 2oz Cascade7.1%
20: 2oz Simcoe
15: 2oz Amarillo
13: 2oz Cascade
10: 3oz Simcoe
8: 2oz Amarillo
5: 2oz Simcoe
3: 2oz Amarillo
end: 2oz Simcoe
keg hop: 2oz Amarillo

Yeast:2 pkgs Wyeast 1332XL Northwest Ale

Mash Temp:152 degrees
Original Gravity:1.068

[Derekt2]

I'm a little curious about some of the hop schedules I've seen here, specifically additions 1/2-way through the boil (e.g., at 30 minutes in a 60 min. boil, or at 45 min. in a 90 min. boil). I know this is in keeping with British tradition but I don't quite see the point given that max. bitterness is acheived between 60 - 90 min. and max. flavor is at <15 min (even <10 depending on who you ask. Why not just:

- at start of boil.
- with 15/10 min remaining.
- at flame-out
- optional DH

Seems to me that 1/2 way does is inefficient whether its for bitterness or flavor. Thoughts?

[Lupulinitus]

Originally posted by Derekt2
I'm a little curious about some of the hop schedules I've seen here, specifically additions 1/2-way through the boil (e.g., at 30 minutes in a 60 min. boil, or at 45 min. in a 90 min. boil). I know this is in keeping with British tradition but I don't quite see the point given that max. bitterness is acheived between 60 - 90 min. and max. flavor is at <15 min (even <10 depending on who you ask. Why not just:

- at start of boil.
- with 15/10 min remaining.
- at flame-out
- optional DH

Seems to me that 1/2 way does is inefficient whether its for bitterness or flavor. Thoughts?


I was always told that in the last 30 to the last 10 will mostly be for flavor and it will give some aroma and increase aroma as you get closer to the last 10 minutes, then from 10 minutes on it is mostly aroma and very little flavor. Plus, I'd rather get a little aerobic exersize rather than risk getting a hernia.
:D

[Derekt2]

Originally posted by Lupulinitus
I was always told that in the last 30 to the last 10 will mostly be for flavor and it will give some aroma and increase aroma as you get closer to the last 10 minutes, then from 10 minutes on it is mostly aroma and very little flavor. Plus, I'd rather get a little aerobic exersize rather than risk getting a hernia.
:D

I believe that the greatest flavor contribution occurs with 10 minutes remaining. Anything longer and it is more bitterness than flavor. Anything less and it is more aroma than flavor.

Further, I believe that the maximum aroma contribution occurs when hops are added at flame-out or post-boil during the whirlpool.

Anyone else?

[Grog]

Someone posted a graph here recently that had a graph outlining the bitterness, flavor, and aroma contributions, but I don't remember enough about it to post a link and I am not about to search for it. If you remember it post it.

But, Derek, your numbers were in line with that graph. From what I have read all the flavor is boiled away after 40 minutes and all of the aroma after 10. So if you wanted just a hint of hop flavor or aroma, I guess there might be some usefulness. I follow the 60/15/0 minutes schedule myself. I don't feel like paying that much attention nor will the wee ones allow me the ability to pay that much attention.

[Mad Scientist]

I saw it too, but I do not remeber where it was. The jist was that greatest flavor comes at 20 minutes, and aroma at 7 minutes.

[Derekt2]

Originally posted by Boerne Brew
I saw it too, but I do not remeber where it was. The jist was that greatest flavor comes at 20 minutes, and aroma at 7 minutes.

I'd like to see that too b/c 20 minutes I can accept although I believe that to be the outer limit. Seven minutes I'm not so sure about it *but* when I was still brewing for a job our knock-out was: boiler off, last addition, 15 min. whirlpool, rapid pump through chiller. That would have meant the hops steeped for 15+ minutes until they hit the CFC and they were pretty hoppy beers in flavor and aroma.

[Mad Scientist]

actually those were the optimal hopping rates

[Mad Scientist]

Found it

http://www.realbeer.com/discussions/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10631&highlight=chart

Look for the link call 'Click me'

[Davidpl85]

Here's a pale ale that a friend gave me. Give it a try!!

?Which Pale Ale??
(English/India Pale Ale)

Ingredients for 7 gallons
5 pounds Muntons spraymalt ? extra light
3 pounds Muntons spray malt ? plain light
1 pound Crystal malt ? Muntons 2-row (60?L)
6 ? ounces Carapils malt ? Dingemanns (7.7?L)
2 ounces Kent Goldings hop pellets (6.2% ?-acid) ? 60 minutes
1 ounce Kent Goldings hop pellets (6.2% ?-acid) ? 10 minutes
1 ounce Cascade hop pellets (5.6% ?-acid) ? 10 minutes
1 ounce Cascade hop pellets (5.6% ?-acid) ? dry hop with #001 yeast (IPA)
1 ounce Fuggles hop pellets (3.7% ?-acid) ? dry hop with #005 yeast (ESB)
1 vial California ale yeast (White Labs #001)
1 vial British ale yeast (White Labs #005)

? Original specific gravity: 1.062
? Terminal Specific Gravity: 1.007 (#001)/1.009 (#005)
? Primary fermentation: 10 days at 68?F (20?C) in plastic
? Secondary fermentation: 19 days at 68?F (20?C) in glass
? Tertiary Fermentation: 9 days at 68?F (20?C) in glass
? Age since bottling: 2 ? months


Yeast Characteristics (http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew_strains.html)

WLP001 California Ale Yeast ? ?This yeast is famous for its clean flavors, balance and ability to be used in almost any style ale. It accentuates the hop flavors and is extremely versatile.
Attenuation: 73-80%
Flocculation: Medium
Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 68-73?F
Alcohol Tolerance: High?

WLP005 British Ale Yeast ? ?This yeast is a little more attenuative than WLP002. Like most English strains, this yeast produces malty beers. Excellent for all English style ales including bitter, pale ale, porter, and brown ale.
Attenuation: 67-74%
Flocculation: High
Optimum fermentation temperature: 65-70?F
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium?
________
Cheap Utg Pistol Pouch Velcro Close (http://airsoft-shop.info/p/utg-pistol-pouch-velcro-close/)

[Carl Spakler]

Originally posted by Wolf359
Double Dry Hopped Damned Caliche IPA

Malt
8lbs light DME
1lb Marris Otter pale 2 row
1/4lb Crystal 10L
1/4lb Honey malt
1/4lb Munich

Hops (all whole leaf)
1oz Warrior @ 90 min
1oz Chinook @ 45 min
1oz Centennial @ 10 min
1oz Cascade @ 5 min
1oz Columbus @ flame out
dry hopped w/ 1oz Columbus & 1oz Cascade for 4 days
dry hopped w/ 2oz Amarillo for the next 4 days

Yeast
Whitelabs California Ale Yeast

This turned out deep golden in color, with a smooth bitterness, and a huge grapefruity hop flavor and aroma. I really love this brew.

After enjoying a beer with amarillo hops (Mojo IPA) and unsuccessfully trying to get the recipe I'm going to try to make this one, though my local HB store doesn't carry all the hops in leaf form. How much should I change the hop amounts to reflect this? Would it be better to get those I can in leaf, and the rest in pellets?

Also, pardon the additional newbie questions...but are there any special steps to the process? Add the cracked grains to cold water bring the temp up (just short of boil?), flame off add LME, bring to a boil then use the hop schedule as listed. My brewpot can't hold a 5 gallon boil, will boiling ~3 gallons then topping off be a problem?

TIA.

[BrewDog]

Carl-

You will be doing what's called a partial mash.This web site (http://byo.com/feature/986.html) has lots of detail on how to do it. Pay attention to temp control. Temperature control is very important when mashing. You need to be near 153F +- about 5 degrees for this to work. If you go too far outside that range (especially ABOVE) you won't get the starch to convert to sugar (ever if too high or in a reasonable time if too cool). Use a thermometer -- don't guess.

Since you are doing a concentrated boil but switching leaf hops to pellets, I'd leave the hops amounts alone. A concentrated boil lowers your hop extraction. Using pellets instead of whole hops increases your hop extraction. These 2 effect will pretty much cancel each other out in your case.

HTH-

[Mad Scientist]

Agreed. Let us know if you cannot locate the hop types you need.

[Uncle Joe]

This thread is awesome. I hope to try each of these recipes. :D

[dparsons]

Originally posted by Carl Spakler
After enjoying a beer with amarillo hops (Mojo IPA) and unsuccessfully trying to get the recipe I'm going to try to make this one, though my local HB store doesn't carry all the hops in leaf form. How much should I change the hop amounts to reflect this? Would it be better to get those I can in leaf, and the rest in pellets?


Get them here in leaf form:
http://www.freshops.com/

They have a high quality product and its worth doing.

[Carl Spakler]

Originally posted by dparsons
Get them here in leaf form:
http://www.freshops.com/

They have a high quality product and its worth doing.

I don't have a gift certificate to that place though, nor can I drive there and pick them up the day I have time to brew. ;)

[Carl Spakler]

Malt
8lbs light DME
1lb Marris Otter pale 2 row
1/4lb Crystal 10L
1/4lb Honey malt
1/4lb Munich

Hops (all whole leaf)
1oz Warrior @ 90 min
1oz Chinook @ 45 min
1oz Centennial @ 10 min
1oz Cascade @ 5 min
1oz Columbus @ flame out
dry hopped w/ 1oz Columbus & 1oz Cascade for 4 days
dry hopped w/ 2oz Amarillo for the next 4 days

Yeast
Whitelabs California Ale Yeast

The LHBS doesn't have Warrior hops, I'd like to brew this weekend, can anyone suggest a good alternate to Warrior? From some reading I see that Warrior is similar to Nugget and Columbus (both of which are available), since the recipe already calls for Columbus I am thinking I should use Nugget? Any suggestions or advice.

I also read up on the partial mash and think I am ready for it...in light of already having done it for a stout I made, though I didn't use nearly as controlled an environment, it still came out very good. I think I'll try the oven method, we have a remote probe thermometer I can use to accurately monitor oven temp.

TIA!

[markaberrant]

Originally posted by Carl Spakler
The LHBS doesn't have Warrior hops, I'd like to brew this weekend, can anyone suggest a good alternate to Warrior? From some reading I see that Warrior is similar to Nugget and Columbus (both of which are available), since the recipe already calls for Columbus I am thinking I should use Nugget? Any suggestions or advice.

Magnum would be much closer to Warrior (both have a smooth bitterness), but to be honest, I think Nugget or Columbus would work much better with this recipe anyway.

[Mad Scientist]

You might consider the columbus for the 90 minute additon, since after being boiled for 90 miknutes all there is is there bitterness, nor flavor or aroma

[Carl Spakler]

OK, looks like I'll try the Columbus for the first hp addition. :)

[Mad Scientist]

Originally posted by Carl Spakler
OK, looks like I'll try the Columbus for the first hp addition. :)

Make sure you adjust for the alpha acid content!

[Carl Spakler]

Originally posted by Boerne Brew
Make sure you adjust for the alpha acid content!

OK, once someone explains what that means. :)

[BrewDog]

Alpha Acid content is the bitterness level of the hops.
The higher the AA, the more bitter. Also, the longer the hops go in the boil the more bitter. (2 lesser effects: The older the hops, the LESS bitter, and the thicker the wort, the LESS bitter.)

Check out this page on Palmer's web site (http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-4.html) to see how to adjust hop levels.

HTH-

[Carl Spakler]

Columbus hops - 13-16% AA
Warrior hops - 15-17% AA

In light of them being within each others "noise" it wouldn't make sense to adjust would it?

[Mad Scientist]

What is the alpha of the colubus you bought as compared to the aplha of the warrior used in the recipe you are maikng?

[Carl Spakler]

Originally posted by Boerne Brew
What is the alpha of the colubus you bought as compared to the aplha of the warrior used in the recipe you are maikng?

The recipe is the one from this thread, I don't believe it listed an alpha, as of yet I haven't bought any of the supplies so I have time to over analyze the situation. :p

[Carl Spakler]

I bought all my supplies yesterday, looks like today should be spent over a bubbling vessel of yumminess. :)

[larin1477]

Allright ...now that the RedSox Amber is done...next is my YPA (Yankee Pale Ale)

What do you guys think?

10.5 lbs 2 row
1 lb crystal 10
1 lb Caramunich
1 lb carapils
8oz Victory

1 oz Columbus (60)
1 oz Centennial (15)
.5 oz Cascade (15)
.5 oz Chinook (0)
.5 oz Cascade (0)
.5 oz Chinook (dry)

may rack over wlp 005 for a third try (have a packet of safeale 05 just in case)

[danno]

chinook? not my favorite hop...

[larin1477]

Originally posted by danno
chinook? not my favorite hop...

Have'nt used it before...any reason why you don't like it?...

[Otis_The_Drunk]

If you use Chinook, use it sparingly.
Chinook tends to be a harsh hop when used in abundance.

[dparsons]

You also have a pretty fair amount of caramel & crystal malts. Generally no more than 10% of the grist is recommended.

[larin1477]

Originally posted by dparsons
You also have a pretty fair amount of caramel & crystal malts. Generally no more than 10% of the grist is recommended.

Stupid question...Thats the Caramunich Carapils?...The victory isnt a caramel or crystal right?

[larin1477]

Updated Recipe...how's it look now?

YPA (Yankee Pale Ale)

12 lbs 2 row
8 oz Caramunich
8 oz Carapils
8oz Victory
8 oz Honey Malt

1 oz Columbus (60)
1 oz Mt Hood (60)
1 oz Centennial (15)
.5 oz Cascade (15)
1 oz liberty (0)
.5 oz Cascade (0)
.5 oz Liberty (dry)
.5 oz Cascade (dry)

plan on racking over WLP 005 for a second time (have 11.5 oz of safeale 05 just in case)

1.078 SG
10.5 SRM
90.5 IBU's

[BrewDog]

Looks like a nice big DIPA.
I will be interested to hear how the hops play together in this.
Mt. Hood & Liberty go great together.
Casc&Colum&Cent go great together.

Will all 5 play together? (I think so, but the C's will dominate this beer). 90 IBU's is huge.

[dparsons]

Originally posted by larin1477
question...Thats the Caramunich Carapils?...The victory isnt a caramel or crystal right?

Caramunich, Carapils, Crystal. All have unfermentable sugars and you'd get a pretty sweet beer. The latter recipe looks better.

[larin1477]

Originally posted by dparsons
Caramunich, Carapils, Crystal. All have unfermentable sugars and you'd get a pretty sweet beer. The latter recipe looks better.

WAIT!!...I wonder if that is the answer to my Hard Lemonde problem!!...Maybe I should brew it all grain and use a ton of carapils!!...is Malto Dextrin the same as carapils?

[Carl Spakler]

I bottled the super IPA yesterday, it smelled fantastic! I can't wait for it to carbonate, though I am a bit worried, the priming sugar mix may have been a bit too warm. :( I added it to the bottling bucket then transfered the beer into the mixture. Did I kill my chances for this batch carbonating?

[Mad Scientist]

You'll be okay, don't worry, many of us dump the priming solution in hot, and rack on top it.

[Carl Spakler]

Originally posted by Boerne Brew
You'll be okay, don't worry, many of us dump the priming solution in hot, and rack on top it.

Cool, thanks! :)
\~/ <--- attempt at a virtual beer

[BitterRat]

Originally posted by larin1477
is Malto Dextrin the same as carapils?
No!!

[larin1477]

Originally posted by BitterRat
No!!

Dont they both present unfermentable sugars...while aiding in head retention?

[BrewDog]

Originally posted by larin1477
Dont they both present unfermentable sugars...while aiding in head retention?

Yes, but MaltoDextrin powder is not the same, as it is essentially post-processed & refined from carapils/dextrin malt.

[Powhatan]

I gotta say - I tweaked a recipe that Lupulinitus posted on this thread and it it fantastic!!

5 gal

13.5# 2-row
1.3# crystal 30l
0.6# carapils

Hops:
1 oz Amarillo Mash
.5oz Simcoe Mash
1 oz Magnum 60 min
1 oz Cascade 25 min
1 oz Simcoe 20 min
1 oz Amarillo 15 min
1 oz Cascade 13 min
1.5 oz Simcoe 10 min
1 oz Amarillo 8 min
1 oz Simcoe 5 min
1 oz Amarillo 3 min
1 oz Simcoe FO

yeast - WLP001 Califorina Ale

Infusion Mash 152
OG 1.068

I kraeusened with 1 qt gile

This was/is great!!

My FG was 1.014

Not that it matters, but... does this fall under 'double-ipa' status? maybe barleywine?? Being a newbie I'm still working on what I like first and classification second.

[Mad Scientist]

While it certainly as the hop profile for a DIPA or a IIPA, it does not have the malt. The O.G. should be considerably higher.

[Lupulinitus]

Originally posted by Powhatan
I gotta say - I tweaked a recipe that Lupulinitus posted on this thread and it it fantastic!!
Glad you liked it and used it. I always wonder how much of a difference the yeast would make. I use WYEAST 1332XL Northwest Ale exclusively for my IPA's and Porters only because I always like the beers so much and know what to expect from it. I have the same basic recipe fermenting right now except I used Columbus hops instead of the Amarillo's.

[Lupulinitus]

This recipe turned out great. It's a serious RyePA but it is amber in color rather than pale. If you would want it pale use 2 lbs of Crystal 30 rather than the 40 and 80. If you like IPA's, you'll definately enjoy this.
Here's the label
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k132/bunghammer/hellbillyIRA.jpg

India Rye Amber 32/32 10 gallons

27lbs Briess Pale malt
2lbs Weyerman Rye Malt
1lb Briess Crystal 40
1lb Briess Crystal 80
1lb Muntons Carapils 20
Hops:
Mash: 3oz Cascade 5.5%
Boil: 2oz Columbus 13.7%
last 25 minutes: 2oz Cascade
20: 2oz Columbus
20: 2oz Cascade
18: 2oz Cascade
15: 2oz Simcoe
15: 2oz cascade
13: 2oz Simcoe 11.9%
10: 2oz Columbus
8: 3oz Simcoe
5: 2oz Columbus
3: 2oz Cascade
End: 2oz Columbus
Keg: 2oz Cascade
WYEAST 1332XL Northwest Ale
Mash 154 degrees
I forgot to take an O.G. when I put it in the fermenter, but the preboil gravity(about 14 gallons) was 1.061.

[Carl Spakler]

Originally posted by Powhatan
I gotta say - I tweaked a recipe that Lupulinitus posted on this thread and it it fantastic!!

5 gal

13.5# 2-row
1.3# crystal 30l
0.6# carapils

Hops:
1 oz Amarillo Mash
.5oz Simcoe Mash
1 oz Magnum 60 min
1 oz Cascade 25 min
1 oz Simcoe 20 min
1 oz Amarillo 15 min
1 oz Cascade 13 min
1.5 oz Simcoe 10 min
1 oz Amarillo 8 min
1 oz Simcoe 5 min
1 oz Amarillo 3 min
1 oz Simcoe FO

yeast - WLP001 Califorina Ale

Infusion Mash 152
OG 1.068

I kraeusened with 1 qt gile

This was/is great!!

My FG was 1.014


That looks like a tasty hop bomb. :) Just what I like!

How would you convert it to an extract version? And what do you mean with "I kraeusened with 1 qt gile"?

Thanks.

[Powhatan]

Hopefully someone else can answer your question about converting to extract... i know there is a formula - but i don't have it.

As to your other question... gile is unfermented wort saved from the post boil. You can use it instead of the corn sugar that is added for carbonation.

[Derekt2]

Use 2 cans (8#) of Alexander's Pale LME and you are good to go.

[sittingcow]

75 minute IPA (inspired by, but by no means a clone of DFH's)

For 5 gallons

14 lbs US pale malt
1 lb US amber malt
Mashed at 152 for one hour.
Got horrible horrible horrible efficiency (first AG, bad sparging technique), added DME to get to target SG of 1.070

75 minute boil...
2 oz. Simcoe, 2 oz. Centennial, 1.5 oz Northern Brewer, 1 oz Crystal
Mixed thoroughly and split into 16 roughly equal additions, added every 5 minutes (last one while cooling).

Cooled to 70F, OG 1.076, pitched two packs US-05 (overkill, yes)
Tasted great going into the fermenter!

Fermenting now at about 68F. Will dry-hop with 2 oz. Simcoe after a week or so, then bottle in 2-3 weeks after that.

[BrewDog]

Got horrible horrible horrible efficiency (first AG, bad sparging technique), added DME to get to target SG of 1.070

That's ok. Sounds to me like the best partial mash you'll ever make. :D Look at the bright side. You recognized the problem and thought on your feet. You came up with a good solution and saved your beer. Great job!

One other thing, it sometimes helps when starting AG to brew the same recipe several times in a row so that you can concentrate on technique as opposed to other stuff. Because of the hop shortage, I can understand if you want to try something else that doesn't require a 2nd mortgage on the house. However, doing another easier recipe a few times to dial in your system will help you a lot. While DIPA's are relatively simple in concept compared to other AG recipes, they are so big in both grain and hop bills that that can cause problems by itself. Not to mention the costs of all the ingredients.

I'd suggest you use a more "standard" but easy drinking beer in the 1.050ish range to dial yourself in (think blondes, pale ales, hefeweizens, ambers). Then you aren't stuck with a whole boatload of "have-to-force-it-down" beer as you dial in your process. The mistakes don't end up undrinkable, because whether you miss either high or low, you are still in "drinkable" range.

HTH-

[sittingcow]

Tomorrow, I plan on brewing a super small beer with my leftover grain to see if I can do any better with my efficiency (had to buy 20 lbs of pale malt because my LHBS was out of 55-lb sacks). In a week or two, I'll pick up a 55-lb'er and some specialty grains and probably follow your advice.


6 lbs pale malt, 1/4 oz of Sterling at 60-30-15-0, US-05... Should be a nice refreshing beer that I could drink all day without getting drunk, eh? Will using so little grain give me any problems, like maybe an inadequate filter bed? My mash-tun is a 10-gal Rubbermaid with a bazooka T.

Thanks for the encouragement and tips!!

[BrewDog]

What's the AA level on the Sterling? 4 HBU's at 60 will give you 16 IBUs. (ie, 1 oz of 4% hops, or 1/4 oz of 16% will give you the same bittering levels). For reference, that's hefeweizen strength, and it will be low bitterness even in a small beer.

You might want to add more hops or use them all in one single bittering addition.

You should be ok mashing that in a cooler. I did a braggot with 7 lbs of grain a few weeks ago and it turned out fine.

HTH-

[sittingcow]

it's 7.5... maybe i'll throw 1/2 oz at 60 and then 1/4 oz at 15 and 0

[BrewDog]

That'll give you roughly a 1.031 beer with 18 IBUs.

Sounds ok to me.

[sittingcow]

Holy crap! I bottled that beer at the top of this page today, and it is fantastic! Even at room temperature and uncarbonated, it's already my best beer. It tastes remarkably like DFH's 90-minute. I am already regretting that I only have a little less than 5 gallons of it.

[Mill Rat]

Brewed this at the end on March, moved it to secondary in late April, finally kegged it tonight. Even my wife, who prefers dark beer and isn't so much of a hop-head really liked the warm flat sample. Not to shabby getting 10.8% ABV out of 15 pounds of grain, too. It's force carbing now.

DRIPA
A ProMash Recipe Report

BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------
14-C India Pale Ale, Imperial IPA

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (Gal): 5.00 Wort Size (Gal): 5.00
Total Grain (Lbs): 15.00
Anticipated OG: 1.085 Plato: 20.38
Anticipated SRM: 7.5
Anticipated IBU: 80.2
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75 %
Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.7 0.25 lbs. Wheat Malt America 38.00 2
88.3 13.25 lbs. Maris Otter 2-row Pale Ale Great Britain 38.00 3
6.7 1.00 lbs. Flaked Rye America 34.00 2
3.3 0.50 lbs. Crystal 20L America 35.00 20

Potential represented as Points per pound per gallon.

Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.50 oz. Nugget Whole 12.00 68.7 60 min.
1.00 oz. Centennial Whole 8.60 8.8 15 min.
0.50 oz. Centennial Whole 8.60 2.7 5 min.
1.00 oz. Willamette Whole 5.50 0.0 Dry Hop

Yeast
-----

White Labs WLP007 Dry English Ale


Water Profile
-------------

Profile: Burton On Trent [pitched onto yeast cake]

Mash Schedule
-------------

Mash Type: Multi Step

Grain Lbs: 15.00
Water Qts: 15.00 - Before Additional Infusions

Qts Water Per Lbs Grain: 1.00 - Before Additional Infusions

Acid Rest Temp : 0 Time: 0
Protein Rest Temp : 122 Time: 30
Intermediate Rest Temp : 0 Time: 0
Saccharification Rest Temp : 145 Time: 30
Mash-out Rest Temp : 170 Time: 10
Sparge Temp : 170 Time: 120


Total Mash Volume Gal: 4.95 - Dough-In Infusion Only

All temperature measurements are degrees Fahrenheit.

Notes
-----

Use rice hulls
Actual efficiency: 86%
Actual OG 23 Plato (1.097)
Actual FG 4 Plato (1.016)

[OntheLoose]

Anyone else brew a good double IPA recently? I think I will go with something close to Mill Rats recipe unless someone else has some good ideas.

[Mikegobrew]

I've finally decided instead of brewing an existing recipe or just tweaking one to my liking to come up with a recipe with a blank sheet of paper. Here's my idea.

American IPA
10 Gallon Recipe
22 lbs. Briess 2 Row
3 lbs. Munich
2 lbs. Crystal 60 L
Max GU = 91.7 ....... 79% Efficiency Expected OG = 1.073
2oz. Chinook 11.4 AA 60 min
2oz. Cascade 7.5 AA 30 min
2oz. Cascade 7.5 AA 5 min
Total IBU’s 70.19
Yeast WLP001 pitched from a starter (making it now :D )

I do not use software and don't intend to. I calculated the IBU's from the formula and was wondering if any of you who know how to do this could check it for me or run it through the software just to make sure I'm on the right track. Any other suggestions are good as well.
Thanks in Advance,
Mike

[Mikegobrew]

Hmm... I must be a dying breed out there who does this stuff without a computer telling you what to brew. :rolleyes:

[corkybstewart]

Actually I usually brew, then enter what I brewed so my computer tells me if my beer will meet the guidelines of whatever style it is supposed to be. Usually I'm close, but my IBU's or OG are almost always higher than what the BJCP gods have decreed.

[Mikegobrew]

Actually I usually brew, then enter what I brewed so my computer tells me if my beer will meet the guidelines of whatever style it is supposed to be. Usually I'm close, but my IBU's or OG are almost always higher than what the BJCP gods have decreed.

Good, then I'm going to brew it and let my tastebuds tell me if I hit what I was going for or not. :D I'm about as concerned with the guidelines as Vance... ok, maybe not that extreme. lol. But there's a certain bitterness that I just can't tolerate. I don't think 70 is it.

[vance71975]

I'm about as concerned with the guidelines as Vance... ok, maybe not that extreme. lol.

Ouch mike that just hurt my one lone feeling, and that isn't safe the poor thing is already on life support! :D

[Mikegobrew]

I brewed my IPA recipe yesterday morning and when I added the first hop addition I was watching TV - People's Outragous Behavior on G4 network in the garage. Some kids lit a hockey puck on fire and soaked goalie pads in gasoline and shot the puck at the goalie. Obviously stop drop and roll was in order, I was glued to the damn event, and in the meantime my keggle with 12.5 gallons of wort boiled over. Damn. Hop material spilled out and down the sides onto the floor. In my attempt to rescue some of the bitterness, I added a half ounce of Cascade hops to the 2 oz of Chinook. We'll see if it worked. The wort tasted plenty of bitterness, so I think it's be ok. So much for knowing if I brew it again what it will taste like though. :rolleyes:

[Mikegobrew]

American IPA
10 Gallon Recipe
22 lbs. Briess 2 Row
3 lbs. Munich
2 lbs. Crystal 60 L
Max GU = 91.7 ....... 79% Efficiency Expected OG = 1.073
2oz. Chinook 11.4 AA 60 min
2oz. Cascade 7.5 AA 30 min
2oz. Cascade 7.5 AA 5 min
Total IBU’s 70.19
Yeast WLP001 pitched from a starter

I went to keg the IPA last night and the FG was at 1.020 from 1.062. I thought it was too high still so I slept on it. This morning, I tested the other half and it was also at 1.020. Half got S-05 and the other got WLP001 from a starter. It tastes pretty good, seems to be enough bitterness for sure. I guess it's done? Maybe the Munich gave it more body or my thermometer was off. I mashed at 152*F (I think).

BTW, I cleaned and sanitized the keg before I decided not to rack the beer. Do I need to re-sanitize it again? I pressurized it to 5 lbs with out any more sanitizer in it.

[Tronathon]

I'm brewing an Imperial IPA tomorrow and this is the recipe I'm gunna use...

Imperium Pale Ale

7.00 lbs. 2-Row Brewers Malt
7.00 lbs. Maris Otter Pale
.75 lbs. Cara-Pils® Malt
.75 lbs. American Caramel 80°L
.50 lbs. Wheat Flaked
1.00 lbs. White Table Sugar (Sucrose)
1.45 oz. Citra (Pellets, 11.1 %AA) boiled 60 min.
1.0 oz. Progress (Pellets, 6.25 %AA) boiled 30 min.
.50 oz Progress (Pellets, 6.25 %AA) boiled 20 min.
.50 oz. Willamette (Pellets, 5.00 %AA) boiled 15 min.
.50 oz. Willamette (Pellets, 5.00 %AA) boiled 7 min.
Yeast : WYeast 1056 American Ale

OG 1.090
FG 1.016
Color 13.87 °SRM
Bitterness 71.5 IBU
ABV 9.8 %

I'm going to pitch it onto the yeast cake from my Burton ale (Wyeast 1098), it says the upper limit is 10% so I think it'll be fine. I figure since I'm going UP in bitterness from the 48IBU in the Burton any added IBU from hop residue/oils will not influence the flavor. Also, I used Amarillo/Progress/Willamette in the Burton and it was a nice profile, I figure Citra/Progress/Willamette won't be much different.

Any and all criticisms are welcome!

Tron

[sully626]

I don't know about the grain bill for this brew as I am still doing extract+ brews, but as for the hops if it was me I would either jump up the late addition hops or plan on dry hopping. I really like a nice hoppy flavor out of my ipa/iipa, but it really is up to you as to what you like.

[Tronathon]

I was going more for an English IIPA rather than an American version. The style guidelines say,

Hop flavor is medium to high, with a moderate to assertive hop bitterness. The hop flavor should be similar to the aroma (floral, earthy, fruity, and/or slightly grassy). Malt flavor should be medium-low to medium-high, but should be noticeable, pleasant, and support the hop aspect.

I was going for a medium maltiness, which I was worried would be over powered by the mid to late hop additions common to American DIPAs. I revised the recipe I think it's gunna have....

1.5 Citra at 60
1.0 Progress at 30
.5 Liberty at 20
.5 Liberty at 15
.5 Liberty at 10
.5 Willamette at 7
.5 Willamette at 2

It's still gunna be around 72-74 IBU's but I think that will add a nice balanced hoppiness to the brew.

hit me back

Tron

[BrewDog]

I'd change out the Liberty for Fuggles or EKG (and cut the Crystal 80L down a bit - maybe 1/2 lb instead of 3/4, but that's just me).

[sully626]

I was going more for an English IIPA rather than an American version. The style guidelines say,

Hop flavor is medium to high, with a moderate to assertive hop bitterness. The hop flavor should be similar to the aroma (floral, earthy, fruity, and/or slightly grassy). Malt flavor should be medium-low to medium-high, but should be noticeable, pleasant, and support the hop aspect.

I was going for a medium maltiness, which I was worried would be over powered by the mid to late hop additions common to American DIPAs. I revised the recipe I think it's gunna have....

1.5 Citra at 60
1.0 Progress at 30
.5 Liberty at 20
.5 Liberty at 15
.5 Liberty at 10
.5 Willamette at 7
.5 Willamette at 2

It's still gunna be around 72-74 IBU's but I think that will add a nice balanced hoppiness to the brew.

hit me back

Tron

The only thing I'm thinking is that a brew that strong you are probably going to want to age it for a bit. If that is the case I believe you will end up losing hop flavor and aroma, so I don't know if you would want to plan on compensating for that.

[Tronathon]

I guess I hadn't thought that I'd lose hop aroma...I don't know if one can lose hop flavor from aging for 2-4 weeks (I assume that's about as long as I'd need to age it min).

I don't want an exceptionally bitter brew, I personally don't mind the super hoppy beers but my GF is more appreciative of balanced beers and I was trying to make something she'd like. I figured 75 IBU was around the top end of what would be necessary to balance the beer and not have hops dominate. I suppose I'll brew it tomorrow as I've planned and see what happens. Guess that's the beauty of home brewing is that you can experiment and tweak. I doubt it'll turn out bad and I might just have to drink 50 bottles of not-quite-imperial IPA

I calculated the IBU's with the revised schedule it should be 78 IBU...I think this will prove hoppy enough...if, on the fly, I decided not, I might add more liberty/willamette at 20...

[Tronathon]

Also, brewdog, why cut the crystal down? I like the copper color, and (I might be mistaken) doesn't it lower your mash PH? I smelled the liberty at my LHBS and liked it so I grabbed it instead of more willamette.

Thoughts?

[BrewDog]

7.00 lbs. 2-Row Brewers Malt 7*2=14
7.00 lbs. Maris Otter Pale 7*2.2=15.4
.75 lbs. Cara-Pils® Malt 0.75*1.8=1.35
.75 lbs. American Caramel 80°L 0.75*80=60
.50 lbs. Wheat Flaked 0.5*1.5=0.75
sum = 91.5. 91.5/5=18.3 SRM

IMHO, It's gonna end up pretty dark (18.3 SRM - the upper end for the style is around 15)and caramelly, and in such a big beer, that starts to verge on cloying.

Like I said, that's just me, though.

[sully626]

I guess I hadn't thought that I'd lose hop aroma...I don't know if one can lose hop flavor from aging for 2-4 weeks (I assume that's about as long as I'd need to age it min).

I don't want an exceptionally bitter brew, I personally don't mind the super hoppy beers but my GF is more appreciative of balanced beers and I was trying to make something she'd like. I figured 75 IBU was around the top end of what would be necessary to balance the beer and not have hops dominate. I suppose I'll brew it tomorrow as I've planned and see what happens. Guess that's the beauty of home brewing is that you can experiment and tweak. I doubt it'll turn out bad and I might just have to drink 50 bottles of not-quite-imperial IPA

I calculated the IBU's with the revised schedule it should be 78 IBU...I think this will prove hoppy enough...if, on the fly, I decided not, I might add more liberty/willamette at 20...

Don't get me wrong, I'm sure it will be fine. I was just thinking that with a beer @ almost 10% abv you would probably want to age it a bit to get the alcohol taste to subside a little and meld everything together a bit. If you plan to drink as you would any other brew(which I do whether its 5% or 9%, lol) than you shouldn't lose anything. I just brewed a Pliny the Elder Clone that looks like it will be at about 8.4% that I plan on drinking once it is ready.

Also, I have noticed for my taste that I like to lean less on the bittering hops and more on the aroma/finishing hops to add to the bitterness of the brew. A few of the guys on here pointed out hop bursting, which I tried on a brew that I like quite a bit. You end up using more hops, but that is some of the sacrifices you have to make, haha.

[Tronathon]

Well actually the hop schedule changed again...


1.5 Citra at 60
1.0 Progress at 30
.5/.5 Willamette Liberty at 20
.5 Liberty at 15
.5 Liberty at 10
.5 Liberty at 7
.5 Willamette at 2

So...it ended up getting .5oz of liberty anyway... there was 1.5 of the bittering (which boiled over a tiny tiny bit so I threw in a few more pellets of citra) and 3.5oz of flavor hops...so I think it'll be sufficiently hoppy. The liberty I got and the willamette were both pretty low AAU so they won't overwhelm anything...

Usually what I end up doing is Drinking 1 right when it's carbonated, and then like 1 every other day until it's ready...and then it usually gets drank pretty fast between me, my gf and her and my's families. But I'm saving 1 22oz of each brew for my best friend in Afghanistan so when he gets back we're gunna have a RDWHAshitloadofHB night...

Tron

[Croesius]

Usually what I end up doing is Drinking 1 right when it's carbonated, and then like 1 every other day until it's ready...and then it usually gets drank pretty fast between me, my gf and her and my's families. But I'm saving 1 22oz of each brew for my best friend in Afghanistan so when he gets back we're gunna have a RDWHAshitloadofHB night...

Tron

Hah, sounds pretty much like what I end up doing. Purely scientific...one MUST check the beer's progression, to ensure that that perfect day on beer doesn't slip by!

And amen to the reserve 22's, that's a helluva way to support the troops! My little brother is headin' into the Army, and I've pledged the same deal with him. Much props.

[Tronathon]

He's been to Iraq twice and Afghanistan once now...this is his last tour, thank god, so I'm trying to build up a good store as a gift ya know. Just want him back safe and sound!

[mugsbat]

I'm new to homebrewing and I'm trying an IPA for my first brew. What could I do or adjust to the following IPA recipe to make a "double IPA" or higher gravity and more IBU's. Thanks for your help

6.6 lb amber liquid malt extract
1 lb crystal grain
1/2 lb victory grain
1/4 lb Munich grain
2 oz Northern Brewer hops @ 60min
1 oz Fuggles hops after boil
1 tsp gypsum
pinch salt
1.75 oz wyeast London Ale

[corkybstewart]

I'm new to homebrewing and I'm trying an IPA for my first brew. What could I do or adjust to the following IPA recipe to make a "double IPA" or higher gravity and more IBU's. Thanks for your help

6.6 lb amber liquid malt extract
1 lb crystal grain
1/2 lb victory grain
1/4 lb Munich grain
2 oz Northern Brewer hops @ 60min
1 oz Fuggles hops after boil
1 tsp gypsum
pinch salt
1.75 oz wyeast London Ale
Welcome to the addiction, I hope you enjoy it.
First of all you shouldn't try a DIPA or any high gravity beer until you have a feel for the process. Higher gravity beers present some problems that you dont want to deal with on your first try. Get a few beers under your belt and then start going bigger.
The only thing i would do with that recipe is to change the amber LME to pale LME. You should generally use the palest extracts you can find and adjust for flavor and color with specialty grains. Also I would throw in an oz of hops at 20 and 10 minutes.

[Mikegobrew]

Welcome to the addiction, I hope you enjoy it.
First of all you shouldn't try a DIPA or any high gravity beer until you have a feel for the process. Higher gravity beers present some problems that you dont want to deal with on your first try. Get a few beers under your belt and then start going bigger.
The only thing i would do with that recipe is to change the amber LME to pale LME. You should generally use the palest extracts you can find and adjust for flavor and color with specialty grains. Also I would throw in an oz of hops at 20 and 10 minutes.

I think back to my first brew and I'm glad I went with something simple. Learning the process with a standard kit was difficult enough for me. It took me about 4 brews to be confident I knew what I was doing. I brewed the same kit several times to make sure and it got better every time. I second the notion of waiting for the high gravity until a little later down the road.

[Rumplemintz]

The recipe is that of a local brewery in the area, and if it turns out close I will be pleased~

12 lbs. 2-Row Brewers Malt; Rahr
0.75 lbs. 2-Row Caramel Malt 60L; Briess
0.75 lbs. Weyermann CaraMunich® II; Weyermann
0.125 lbs. Victory® Malt; Briess
1 oz. Ahtanum (Pellets, 6.00 %AA) boiled 90 min.
0.5 oz. Amarillo® (Pellets, 8.50 %AA) boiled 60 min.
1 oz. Cascade (Pellets, 5.50 %AA) boiled 30 min.
1.25 oz. Centennial (Pellets, 10.00 %AA) boiled 15 min.
1 oz. Amarillo® (Pellets, 8.50 %AA) boiled 5 min.
1 oz. Simcoe® (Pellets, 13.00 %AA) used as dry hop.
Yeast : White Labs WLP007 Dry English or Wyeast 1275 Thames Valley

I brewed this today and am sitting at 1.075 OG

[Rumplemintz]

This is the best beer I have made thus far!
I tried a 1 week conditioned green bottle and it has a nice malty/hoppy kick to it. It is a little bitter at the end, but I think a few more weeks could help mold this into a great clone!
I will never just drop hop pellets into my secondary again, I clogged up my pipes way too many times. I went out and grabbed a few hop bags.