best type of AG equip??

[croc4]

So what is everyones feel for good AG equipment?

The reason I ask is, I like others have been thinking of going to AG. From what I know so far, I think basic batch sparging is fine for me, so this points me towards the "cooler" type set up, so from this I have a number of questions, if you would indulge me


1. what is better SS false bottom or manifold?

2. what are the best coolers, round or square?

3. I want the ability to do 10gal batches when the mood hits me, but will be doing more 5 gal batches most (70%) of the time. So can I use the same equipment for both sizes?

I hear that the size/depth of the grain bed play a factor, so less grain in a bigger container may not work correctly?

[Stumptown]

If you are batch sparging, grain bed depth is not an issue.

Assuming you are batch sparging, you don't want a false bottom. Use SS braided hose which is cheaper and works just fine.

Round or square is fine, but you will find square ones cheaper.

You should be able to do most 10 gallon batches with a 48 quart cooler (as well as 5 gallon), but someone correct me if I'm wrong.

For a great description of the batch sparging process and equipment, go to: http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/

[croc4]

why not a false bottom when batch sparging?

[OldHooky]

I use a 10 gallon beverage cooler with a Phil's Phalse Bottom. It works really well. It holds the mash temperature dead on. If I were doing it again, I would buy a SS false bottom because the plastic one tends to float and allow some grain to get underneath. I've corrected this by using a paddle to hold the PB down with adding the grain. It works fine for 5 gallon batches and if you intend to ever do 10 gallon batches, it's worth the extra money. In my case it cost about $35 for the cooler, $15 for the PB, and probably $5 for plumbing part to finish it.

[Stumptown]

Originally posted by croc4
why not a false bottom when batch sparging?

I don't know, honestly. The "experts" (see the link I posted) say that batch sparging actually works better with a system that would be relatively inefficient for fly sparging. Plus, the braided hose is really cheap compared to a bazooka screen or false bottom and it's a lot easier than building a slotted manifold.

Again, I just followed the instructions and accepted the advice given in that link because I had talked to several people who did the same and were very, very happy with the results.

[bierboy]

I use a system similar to the one Denny describes in his article. I didn't look at the link, but I assume it is the same as his article in the Jan-Feb 2004 BYO.

My system is a $13 rectangular cooler from Wal-Mart, a braided stainless steel hose, two stainless clamps, two nylon barbs with 1/2" threads, a 1/2" brass T, a 1/2" x 1 1/2" male nipple, 1/2" ball valve, and another barb with 1/2" threads. The barb ends are up to you whta size you want. I use 1/4".

This system costs about $40-$50 to build and I get a consistent 75% or more effeciency. I batch sparge exclusively and do not see the need to fly sparge.

[chris1kanobi]

I do batch sparging in a 10 gallon round cooler with a braided hose filter. I have used a phalse bottom and as discribed they "phloat" and grains get stuck under it. I prefer the round cooler, because it is rated for high temps. I have found 10 gallon coolers on ebay for $50 with shipping from a guy in Arizona. In my opinion, it is the most portable, simple, cheap and trouble free all grain system. Here is a link for how I made the braided filter.

http://www.freewebs.com/homebrew/mashing.htm

[Stumptown]

Croc:

I was just adding up how much it cost me to make the jump from extract to allgrain. The grand total investment was $51.47.

I already owned a cooler that I could use. It cost me less than $15 to buy all of the stuff it takes to convert the cooler to a mashtun using the ss braid method.

I found a 7.5 gallon SS pot at an on-line discount kitchen place for about $37 delivered.

So, keep that in mind if cost is a factor for you.

[croc4]

Thanks

[toneyc]

The only additional equipment I bought was the stainless false bottom at about $20. I think that if I had it to do over again, I might go the braided hose route. The stainless false bottom has a rough edge because it isn't a round piece of metal with holes drilled in it, it was a large sheet of metal with holes drilled in it that a round piece was cut out of. Did that make sense? Anyway, so it has a tendency to scratch the plastic bucket when inserting or removing it. This makes me nervous. I suppose I could slit a piece of tubing and put it around the edge...

:)
Toney.

[croc4]

Thanks Toney, I know what you mean, I suppose you could grind it down, but that would be a pita