One more cask question...

[mortong]

Okay, just one more time, then I'll stop bugging you all. ;)

I just transferred the Scottish Ale to secondary tonight - the cask isn't quite ready to have beer put in it yet, but should be within a few days.

Should I just transfer it into the cask asap? Also, when I do put it in the cask, should I put corn sugar in it for carbonation as I would when I'm bottling?

[SLOSHomebrewers]

My experience with casks (for wine) hase been that there is no real hurry, ...ever. Put the beer in there when it is convient for you, top it up once a week if the cask is new, keep it toped up, and pull it out when it has enough oak flavor for your taste.

Don't worry about carbonating in the cask, wood will not be able to hold that much pressure anyway.

Are you kegging this afterward, bottling, using a beer engine, or what?
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[mortong]

I guess I should have just posted this under my previous cask thread, but it's too late for that now...

I was planning on using the cask to serve the beer, just using gravity. I figured I'd have my girlfriend come over (since she gave it to me), and we'd polish off the cask on the evening that we tapped it - so it wouldn't have time to oxidize. I'd never thought of bottling it after it had aged for awhile. That might not be a bad idea.

[SLOSHomebrewers]

I would suggest bottling this stuff. If you serve directly out of the cask it will be flat.
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[mortong]

Not a bad idea, I think I'll try it.

One more question though - my LHBS told me to put in a mixture of Sodium Metabisulite and Citric acid in water after the lye, soda ash mixture. I just did this, but was wondering - there was a warning not to inhale any Sodium Metabisulfite, sp I did a Google search.

"Risk of serious damage to eyes. Harmful if swallowed. Contact with acids liberates toxic sulfur dioxide (SO2) gas.

Ahem, my LHBS shop told me to mix it WITH citric acid.

I have to admit it wasn't a pleasent smell, but how much should I be worried about health risks?

[mortong]

Ah, nm. I think I see the chemical reaction chain:

Sodium Metabosulfite + Citric acid = Sulfer dioxide
Sulfer dioxide + water = sulfuric acid
sulfuric acid + lye = close to ph neutral

But how dangerous are the fumes produced by the reaction of Sodium metabosulfite and citric acid, and how dangerous is inhaling a little sod. met.?

[SLOSHomebrewers]

You deffinately want to work in a well ventilated area. I also try to hold my breath when working with crystalized metabisulfite. I probably should wear a dust mask at the least...

I also mix a 10 percent solution and dilute that as needed. This procedure is detailed in Iverson's Home Wine Making. This way I only have to deal with the crystalized metabisulfiite once in a while.

The acid will release SO2 gas, that is what we want it to do. The SO2 gas will push O2 out of the cask and kill most spoilage organizisms. Just don't breathe the stuff and work in a well ventiliated area. Pay attention to the quantities, don't add too much acid to a sulfite solution that is too strong.
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[Richard English]

Quote "...I would suggest bottling this stuff. If you serve directly out of the cask it will be flat...."

Indeed. And that's the way cask Real Ale should be. We drink it that way in England all the time. Fizzy beer is a creation of the chemical fizz factories; even bottled beer, prviding it's bottle conditioned, will not be anyhere near so fizzy as A-B rubbish.

The only problem with cask beer is the short lifespan but if you're finishing it within a few days you'll be just fine.

[mortong]

Richard - The short lifespan is the primary reason I'd consider bottling it. While I have no doubts two of us could polish of the gallon in an evening, I'd prefer to have some leftover for another night.

Of course, we'll see what happens when the time comes. I like the idea of serving it straight from the cask.

[Richard English]

A gallon? And a skimpy US gallon at that? I reckon you need to get in a few bottles of 1845 as well or you'll get thirsty halfway through the evening!

[SLOSHomebrewers]

You crazy Brit.

Some of us have stuff to do in the morning.

I know I can't be pullin' down 3.5 liters of strong scottish ale very often. Remember it's his girlfriend that is helping him, not a sumo wrestler!
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[Richard English]

Quote, "...I know I can't be pullin' down 3.5 liters of strong scottish ale very often..."

Maybe I missed it but I didn't see the strength of this brew mentioned. If it's a normal English (or Scottish) cask quaffing ale it will only be between 3.4% and 4.0%. To my mind 4 Imperial pints (4.128 US pints) of such a brew is a perfectly normal amount for a reasonable session and we were, (I seem to recall) speaking about a special party here - so a little more than normal would seem indicated.

Even allowing for the possible lower capacity of the lady friend, I can't see that it would be a major problem.

Of course, if we are speaking of some Kamikaze 8.5% brew, then I accept that it might take a couple of evenings to get through a gallon.

[mortong]

No problems with the extra supple of beer, Richard. I enjoy having a reasonably wide range of styles (3-6) on hand at all times.

Actually the two of us can polish off a full case (15 Imp. pints, 2.25 US gal) in an evening between the two of us on occasion. And she keeps up with me easily - her at 130lbs, me at 230lbs. I'm not exactly a light-weight drinker, either.

One US gallon is 8 US pints, 10 bottles and a little under 7 Imperial pints. When I have this short of a supply of a particularly good batch, I prefer to save it for special occasions and switch to my less prized brews after a pint or two.

But like I said, we'll see what happens. This beer is quite a bit stronger than the style guidelines for a Scottish 80/-. The OG was 1.072, and it's at about 6.5% abv right now.

It's very reminiscent of Scotch - my favorite liquor (hers is Bourbon) - and has a nice alcohol burn.

If it turns out as good as I hope it will be a miracle if it survives the night, but I'd like to have a few bottles left over for another time!

My only major concern with bottling is oxidation, as I have no kegging equipment or CO2.

Another concern: will I lose some of the character of cask conditioned ale if it's bottled?

[Richard English]

Quote "...Another concern: will I lose some of the character of cask conditioned ale if it's bottled?..."

It's not a question of loss but of difference. Some beers are better on draught; some are better bottled; for some it's a matter of the drinker's preference.

Fuller's London Pride I prefer in craught; Fuller's 1845 I prefer in bottle. One thing that is quite noticeable is that most good brewers (in the UK anyway) have a slightly different recipe for their draught and bottled beers. The bottled beer will inevitably be slightly more carbonated and will also change character as it remains in the bottle, sitting on the yeast. These differences may necessitate a recipe change.

If I were you I'd bottle some up and try it. It won't ruin it and it might even improve it. Then you'll know for next time.

[mortong]

Not a bad idea Richard. I think I'll seal up two bottles for later, and drink the rest that night. =) That way, I'll be able to get an idea of the difference.