My Sierra Nevada Clone

[causerofwait]

My Sierra Nevada Clone
Brew Type: All Grain
Date: 12/13/2008
Style: American Pale Ale
Brewer: East State Village Brewery
Batch Size: 11.00 gal
Assistant Brewer:
Boil Volume: 14.07 gal
Boil Time: 90 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 68.00 %

12/13/2008
Clean and prepare equipment.
Measure ingredients, crush grains.
Prepare Water (17.63 gal total)

Amount Item Type
2.20 tbsp PH 5.2 Stabilizer (Mash 60.0 min) Misc

Prepare Ingredients for Mash
Amount Item Type
27.00 lb Rahr Standard 2-Row Base Malt (2.2 SRM) Grain
1.25 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain
0.75 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain

Mash Ingredients
Mash In: Add 36.25 qt of water at 171.8 F
Hold mash at 154.0 F for 60 min

Add first wort hops to boiler at start of sparge
Amount Item Type
3.00 oz My Centennial [9.50 %] (90 min) (First Wort Hop) Pellet

Batch Sparge Round 1: Sparge with 1.49 gal of 170.0 F water.
Batch Sparge Round 2: Sparge with 7.08 gal of 170.0 F water.

Add water to achieve boil volume of 14.07 gal
Estimated Pre-boil Gravity is: 13.143 Plato with all grains/extracts added
Boil for 90 min

Boil Ingredients
Boil Amount Item Type
15 min 2.00 oz My Cascade [6.00 %] (15 min) Pellet
15 min 2.20 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 15.0 min) Misc

Steep Hops
Amount Item Type
2.25 oz My Cascade [6.00 %] (1 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Pellet

Cool wort to fermentation temperature
Add water (as needed) to achieve volume of 11.00 gal
Siphon wort to primary fermenter and aerate wort.
Add Ingredients to Fermenter
Amount Item Type
2 Pkgs California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) Liquid Yeast-Ale

Measure Original Gravity: ________ (Estimate: 15.900 Plato)
Measure Batch Volume: ________ (Estimate: 11.00 gal)

Ferment in primary for 14 days at 67.0 F
Transfer to Secondary Fermenter and Dry Hop with 1.00oz My Cascade
Ferment in secondary for 10 days at 62.0 F
Transfer to Tertiary Fermenter
Cold Crash in tertiary for 4 days at 36.0 F

Measure Final Gravity: ________ (Estimate: 3.737 Plato)
Keg beer at 36.0 F at a pressure of 9.2 PSI

Carbonate for 1.5 Weeks at 9.2psi @ 36degF




A couple of questions I had on this recipe:
1. Are the FWH doubling as my 90min bittering hop addition?
2. is a 154 mash temp good for this recipe? (I have recently defaulted all my recipes to 154 just to keep some things standard while I'm learning).
3. WLP001 or WLP051?

Thanks, I look forward to your feedback.

[Seanibus]

14 gallons? You must have a whopping great pot to boil in...

Looks delicious, by the way.

[hooky]

SNPA is an all cascade brew I believe and the dryness of finish would leave me to suggest that you should lower the mash temp.

I did a 5G pale that came close with just 8lbs 2 row and 4 oz's of 60L, mashed at 150. I used cascade at 60 to hit 40 IBU and an oz at flame out.

Whether your recipe is on the mark for a SNPA clone or not, it should be pretty tasty.

[causerofwait]

My boil pot is a converted keg but with 14+ gal I am pushing it. I actually had a boil over last week with my Oatmeal Stout for the first time since doing stove-top partials. My question about mashing at 150 is what if I miss on the low side? Isn't it necessary to be at least 150? I guess I chose 154 so I had a little room on either side.

[corkybstewart]

SNPA is an all cascade brew I believe and the dryness of finish would leave me to suggest that you should lower the mash temp.

I did a 5G pale that came close with just 8lbs 2 row and 4 oz's of 60L, mashed at 150. I used cascade at 60 to hit 40 IBU and an oz at flame out.

Whether your recipe is on the mark for a SNPA clone or not, it should be pretty tasty.

Somewhere I read they use Centennial and Cascade, maybe I saw it on the label. I'll try to remember where i read it.
I agree that the mash temp is too high, he's gonna end up with a fairly heavy beer-not bad at all IMHO, but not really typical SNPA.

[JayShaw91]

As long as you don't go below 146 you should be OK.

[causerofwait]

Cool, 150 is my new target mash temp. I've been able to hit within a couple of degrees so if I target 150 I should be good. Any thoughts on using FWH as my bittering (full-boil)? Any suggestions on the yeast?
Thanks!

[hooky]

Yeast would be 001 or 1056 if using liquid.

Can't help on your FWH question though. When I do that, it's typically in an IPA and has a bittering charge at 60 too.

[Seanibus]

Cool, 150 is my new target mash temp. I've been able to hit within a couple of degrees so if I target 150 I should be good. Any thoughts on using FWH as my bittering (full-boil)? Any suggestions on the yeast?
Thanks!
I really wouldn't worry about the temp, so long as you're within a few degrees of 150 on either side. I shoot for around 154, but I have good results a little over and a little under. I think a lot of the science in all this really becomes more operative when you're trying to produce a consistent commercial product.

[BrewDog]

SNPA is bittered with Perle & Magnum:

See http://www.sierranevada.com/beers/paleale.html


Our most popular beer, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, is a delightful interpretation of a classic style. It has a deep amber color and an exceptionally full-bodied, complex character. Generous quantities of premium Cascade hops give the Pale Ale its fragrant bouquet and spicy flavor.

“Sierra Nevada Pale Ale is the flagship beer, the one that made Chico famous. It is a flawless beer that opens with bright, perky high notes of maltiness and orange blossom and segues into a delectable hoppiness.”

– Elaine Louie, Premier Beer—A Guide to America's Best Bottled Microbrews

GOLD MEDAL WINNER
Great American Beer Festival (American Pale Ale: 1995, 1994, 1993;
Classic English Pale Ale: 1992; Pale Ale: 1990, 1989, 1987)


alcohol content 5.6% by volume
beginning gravity 13.0 Plato
ending gravity 2.8 Plato
bitterness units 37


yeast Top-fermenting Ale Yeast
bittering hops Magnum & Perle
finishing hops Cascade
malts Two-row Pale & Caramel


All the clones I've seen use Crystal 40, no FWH but lots of Cascade in the last 15 mins and some dry Cascade as well.

HTH-

[hooky]

B-Dawg, was that always the case with Magnum and Perle? I know Cascades have been tough to get and pricey during the shortage. Maybe a change in the recipe?

[causerofwait]

The recipe I based this on (copied from some book in my LHBS) called for the following:

nugget = bittering
perle = flavoring
cascade = aroma and dryhop
the types of grains (and relative percentages) are the same as the original recipe.

I didn't have any perle or nugget. I had read that using centennial as bittering and cascade for flavor/aroma makes a great tasting hoppy beer so I thought I would try it. I'm really less concerned that it be a true clone of SNPA than I am with making a great tasting, hoppier but balanced, APA.

any idea how we get these clone recipes? did someone taste test and guess or do certain MB's release recipes?

[BrewDog]

Hooky-
Clone Brews lists Perle as the bittering hop, and that's been out for a long time. Honestly, the Magnum is new to me. Until I checked their web site (as an after thought just to be able to post the link), I didn't know that Magnum was in there now as well. Makes sense, both are clean German bittering hops, and with the hop shortage, SN probably made the change since Perle is usually around 7.5% AA give or take and Magnum is usually up in the teens. That lets them use less per batch.

As far as I've known, the Perle/Cascade/C40/1056 combo has been commonly available as a clone recipe a lot longer than I've been brewing.

Causer - Yes, you are absolutely right, Centennial makes for a great hoppy beer. I looked at your recipe and it looks good if you are going for a good hoppy beer and not dead on clone.

[Mad Scientist]

Yeah, causer has all the makings of a great APA.

Brewdog, while magnum s are usually up into the teens for AA content, last years German magnum were sadly at 8%...if I recall, you had to confirm that with me after I shipped your hops...I expect this year to back into the normal low teens range....

[BrewDog]

Yeah, you are right. I remember those "weak" Magnums from last year. Still tasty, but not much bittering punch compared to normal.

[markaberrant]

This recipe sounds interesting, but if you want a true SNPA clone, you've gotta make this one:

http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=15532

Dead simple and spot on.

[causerofwait]

Wow, what a thread that was. It took me many hours but I read the whole thing. I feel that I need to apologize. I mistakenly called a this recipe my SNPA clone :rolleyes: . I had no idea there were 30 pages devoted to the subject, proving that this isn't a SNPA clone at all. I admit it, this is not a true SNPA clone recipe on page 1 (just in case this gets to 30+ pages:)) This is based on a copy I made of a SNPA recipe and adding my own personal tastes (=more hops). Actually it's kind of funny now that I look at my op recipe cause I have already changed it a little. I guess time/boredom/internet will do that to a recipe. My wife and I love hops and I want to try the FWH hop schedule that I have read about (30+% late hops moved to FWH). Anyway, here is my new recipe: [see attached pdf, it was easier to read.]

Basically, I got rid of the carapils (to prove to an old friend that it can still have "mouthfeel" without 'em). I changed the hops a bit too (moved half of my 20,10,5 to FWH and moved my Cent. to full 90min boil). I will dryhop 1oz cascade in 5gal but not the other (to test FWH/Dryhop aroma). As always, I welcome any critiques or opinions, as long as it isn't on the authenticity or color :). I would like to try that original NB SNPA clone sometime though. Sounds like its a great brew!

[darylM]

Wow, what a thread that was. It took me many hours but I read the whole thing. I feel that I need to apologize. I mistakenly called a this recipe my SNPA clone :rolleyes: . I had no idea there were 30 pages devoted to the subject, proving that this isn't a SNPA clone at all. I admit it, this is not a true SNPA clone recipe on page 1 (just in case this gets to 30+ pages:)) This is based on a copy I made of a SNPA recipe and adding my own personal tastes (=more hops). Actually it's kind of funny now that I look at my op recipe cause I have already changed it a little. I guess time/boredom/internet will do that to a recipe. My wife and I love hops and I want to try the FWH hop schedule that I have read about (30+% late hops moved to FWH). Anyway, here is my new recipe: [see attached pdf, it was easier to read.]

Basically, I got rid of the carapils (to prove to an old friend that it can still have "mouthfeel" without 'em). I changed the hops a bit too (moved half of my 20,10,5 to FWH and moved my Cent. to full 90min boil). I will dryhop 1oz cascade in 5gal but not the other (to test FWH/Dryhop aroma). As always, I welcome any critiques or opinions, as long as it isn't on the authenticity or color :). I would like to try that original NB SNPA clone sometime though. Sounds like its a great brew!

The recipe you posted is for a great tasting APA. I FWH'ed with Chinook once and it mellowed the flavor considerably. My only suggestion is to save yourself $6 and make a starter instead of buying two packages of liquid yeast.

[markaberrant]

New recipe looks good, somewhere inbetween an APA and IPA.

[causerofwait]

Thanks! I'm looking forward to it. It might be my last batch for a while, we're about to have a baby! It's one I hope my wife likes, she is craving a good hoppy beer, it's been a while for her;) Who knows how much brew time will be left after the little one comes :) Thankfully I do 10gal batches so I should have plenty on hand for a while (35+gal in the basement after making this on Sat.)
I don't know why but starters seem like a PITA to me. I've never made one but consider myself at least basically competent in brewing and sanitation. I'm far from rich but $6 seems less valuable than the time/effort that I would have to put in to a starter. I probably need to get over my "starter fears" and just do it. I have plenty of growler, airlocks and stoppers so I should try it. I suppose one reason is the possibility of messing it up and ruining a batch. How will I know if my starter is infected? I do however look forward to pitching on top of a previous batch, next time I am brewing the same beer a few times in a row. I ferment in a keg so it should be easy, unless I'm supposed to clean the keg first. Does anyone else have an irrational fear of making a starter? The other thing I thought about was just using the 2 packs of US-05 in my fridge. I know it would work well in this batch. My hesitation comes from the unusually high (96%) attenuation I got from it the first time I used it (details on that batch are in a thread under "Yeasts" if anyone is curious). Thanks again for your comments.

ps. Has anyone here brewed the SNPA from the NB board?

[markaberrant]

I brewed the SNPA clone from the NB board. That's what I meant by "spot on." If I were to brew another APA, I wouldn't hesitate to make the same recipe again.

It was really good, in fact it was better than the bottled SNPA that I have access too (likely due to freshness).

[JayShaw91]

Making a starter isn't that big of a deal. 1 cup DME, 1 quart water, boil for 10 minutes. Keep it covered and let it cool to room temp - or ice bath it and cool it quicker. Put it all in a sanitized container, shake, use the next day when you brew.

You said you're competent at sanitation... a starter isn't a big deal then, right? :)

Just use a big enough pot so you don't get a boil over. Get one that is TWICE as big as you think you'll need!

[corkybstewart]

Making a starter isn't that big of a deal. 1 cup DME, 1 quart water, boil for 10 minutes. Keep it covered and let it cool to room temp - or ice bath it and cool it quicker. Put it all in a sanitized container, shake, use the next day when you brew.


One step that I've found really helps: add the yeast once the wort is cool:D

[JayShaw91]

Yeah... that step usually helps quite a bit! Thanks for pointing out the obvious! :)

[Botoole560]

I'm not a huge Sierra Nevada fan, but buddy of mine said he had one in a bottle in the other day and asked me what the junk in the bottom was. . . . To my knowledge, a commercial Pale shouldn't have anything in the bottom, right?? He thought it was either hops or yeast sediment, but does Sierra Nevada leave that stuff in their bottles??

Thank you

[Mad Scientist]

Sierra Nevada is krausened and bottle conditioned, so that is the same yeast layer that you find in our bottle conditioned beer. Your buddy has a keen eye..SNPA does not have much yeast in the bottom

[Botoole560]

Sierra Nevada is krausened and bottle conditioned, so that is the same yeast layer that you find in our bottle conditioned beer. Your buddy has a keen eye..SNPA does not have much yeast in the bottom

All right, I did not know that, I'll pass it along. Thanks

[hooky]

Hooky-
Clone Brews lists Perle as the bittering hop, and that's been out for a long time. Honestly, the Magnum is new to me. Until I checked their web site (as an after thought just to be able to post the link), I didn't know that Magnum was in there now as well. Makes sense, both are clean German bittering hops, and with the hop shortage, SN probably made the change since Perle is usually around 7.5% AA give or take and Magnum is usually up in the teens. That lets them use less per batch.

As far as I've known, the Perle/Cascade/C40/1056 combo has been commonly available as a clone recipe a lot longer than I've been brewing.


Had no idea about the Perle. I need to mess around with that hop a little more. Alway nice to learn something, thanks.

[Otis_The_Drunk]

May I suggest if you want to learn more about a hop, try a single malt and single hop mash.
SMaSH for short.
With just one malt (Base Malt) your judgment of the hop doesn't get clouded caramel malts or other adjunct malts.

There are some new hops I'll be experimenting with this year that I'm going to do just that.