All-grain equipment

[cul8rv8]

I have been looking and looking for Ice Cubes to be on sale anywhere, but it seems that all they have now are the ones on wheels, which as I understand will not work. So I have a friend who gets a discount at Lowe's, so I'm looking at the local stores for 10 gallon round coolers, should be a cheap route.

So now to my question(s). I'm trying to piece together everything I need in order to make my HLT and MT. If someone in the know could just look at my list and tell me if there is anything that I should add, or that I must have, I would appreciate it.

SS False bottom
2 bulkhead fittings
2 valves
2 3/8" barb fittings
high temp tubing
1 thermometer fitting (or would one in each be beneficial?)
1 Brewmometer (or add a second, cheaper thermometer for the HLT depending on above question)

I'm not sure if a sight glass would be something I would want or not. Is it worth the extra time and cost, or can it be added later to the HLT without issue? Seems to me it wouldn't be a problem to add it later on if I want it.

Another question is on the valves. What would the advantage be of the 3-piece valves, such as the Blichmann valves, over a SS 2-piece valve? Is it worth the $18/each difference?

I figure it's time to step up my brewing, and start saving some money on the ingredients. I appreciate everyones time and input on this. :)

[MrNate]

I like sight glasses, particularly on the HLT. I want to know how much water I'm dumping at a glance. I made mine out of 1/2" OD polycarbonate tubing and nylon compression elbows. Very cheap and easy, but like you said can be added on later.

I would put thermometers in both vessels, but if you're looking to save money don't install one in the mash tun - just use your pocket/dairy/whatever thermometer when you mash in.

I don't feel like the additional sanitation ease of the 3-pc valve is all that important, especially on the hot side. But you may be more rigorous and dedicated than I.

[Mad Scientist]

Agreed with Mr. Nate on all those points...
I use a digital oven thermometer on my mash, do not fully immerse the probe (where the wire goes in) or you'll ruin it. Expect to replace it every couple of years.
I have PVC ball valve on my mash, if you want to save a few $$, buy you need a metal one on the HLT. I'll bet you could get by with brass, but I'd just go with SS.
I do not have a sight glass, but that is a personal thing whether to add one or not.

[hooky]

I've seen 50 qt Marine Ice Cubes w/out wheels at a couple of sporting goods stores this summer. I just looked at Bass Pro and they show them on their website for 34.99. Here's a 50 qt at Target http://www.target.com/Igloo-Ice-Cube-50-75-Cooler/dp/B000YIPGWU/sr=1-17/qid=1216837533/ref=sr_1_17/601-7640588-2657720?ie=UTF8&index=target&rh=k%3Aigloo&page=1

Site glass and a thermometer on my HLT are going to be my next additions.

[cul8rv8]

so here's another related question. I'm pricing out parts and things needed, and I'm looking at McMaster. Is stainless steel always acceptable for brewing applications?

I'm looking at the cost of a pre-made sight glass, and everywhere is showing around $40, so I'm trying to piece together a sight glass using the same bulkhead as a thermometer. And one of the pieces I believe I will need is a compression fitting for the sight tube. The one I came up with as of right now says it is for hydraulic fluid, and is not rated. Some of the other pieces I have found show to be rated by the FDA. Should I be concerned with this? I apologize for a nubbish type question, but I just want to be sure I'm going to be ok, even with trying to cut my costs in doing so.

[Mad Scientist]

I believe stailess is always acceptable, but somone else may have a different opiion.

As to the fittings, I might lean toward the FDA approval....I relized that might conflight with my statemean above, but it ain't stainless....

[generalzonzo]

The hydraulic fluid sight glass may not be Stainless, due to the fact it is filled with oil inside and probably painted on the outside. If it is stainless, then stainless is stainless. I have plenty of brewing accessories that touch my beer that are not "FDA" approved.

I have an aluminum mash tun that i also use when doing larger batches. I have had no adverse tastes occur using it. (this will probably be contested, but to this day and many batches later no metallic tastes or Alzheimer's) Although because of the excellent conductive properties of aluminum, I needed to make an insulating jacket for it using mylar coated bubble wrap. If that same mash tun was SS, it would have cost 4 times as much.

Also, I have used hardware store SS and brass fittings for my Lauter Tun without any issues. I don't think there was a FDA approved label on them.

[cul8rv8]

or Alzheimer's

At least as far as you can remember. :) lol

Seriously, though, thanks. That's basically the answer I was looking for. The item rated for hydraulic fluid was just the compression fitting, not the class or anything like that. But the only compression fittings I seemed to be able to find on McMaster that was the right size for everything else was these for hydraulic lines, but they should work fine.

[cul8rv8]

OK, so after hitting 3 different Targets, I got the last 2 Ice Cubes they had. The first two had none. Must be pretty popular. No drain plugs, but big deal, I can drill a hole. :) Going to have to for everything else. So I think I have a grip on all the equipment needed, then I will build myself a nice stand to put everything on. Big question on my mind for that is whether I want to build it from wood and screws, or metal and welding. Leaning towards metal and welding just for the fire safety facter with an outdoor cooker that I will likely use in the near future. But that's another thread. :)

Thanks for the help, all.

[cul8rv8]

OK, I do have a question, though. With the Ice Cube, obviously the false bottom is out. So I've been doing some reading on several different sites, boards, etc., and have a mixed understanding. Some things I've read say that with the cube coolers, you can only batch sparge. Then other things I've read say you can do both. So what I'm trying to figure out is stuff I'm reading says that using a manifold will allow the ability to fly sparge, but with a stainless steel braided line, things say you cannot fly sparge. What I don't get is, why is a manifold that much different from a SS braided line?

Seems to me that the SS line would do the same thing as a manifold. Or am I assuming the SS line would be in a tee and go all the way around, where everything I'm reading saying you can't fly sparge is assuming a straight SS line? I certainly plan to batch sparge at first, so that's not much of a concern off the bat, but I'd like to have the ability to do both as long as it is feasible. Maybe some people with more knowledge can help clear this up for me. Thanks!

[MrNate]

I made my brew stand from wood with an electric HLT. Some believe it is unsafe. I do not. The cooker is a seperate part of my system and can be kept an appropriate distance from the wooden structure. Every brewer has to make their own choices.

I use a copper manifold in my ice cube, but I rarely fly sparge. John Palmer answers your question about fly sparging and tun geometry here: http://howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-2.html




My brewstand:
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee226/nutkeis/Brewing/IMG_0971.jpg

[cul8rv8]

JP's page is almost too scientific for me. Graphs scare me. lol Seriously, though, it actually does make sense to me, though, so I think I got it.