New to brewing...please help :)

[WickedInfractio]

Hello all,

I just got interested in brewing and need some help. First off my "better half" doesnt want me to spend a small fortune on a kit so can anyone tell me the parts and supplies that i may be able to get from my local hardware store, Wal-Mart ect ect to start my kit? Any help at all is very much welcomed.

thanks

[fretlessman71]

What do you consider a small fortune? I got a Brewer's Best kit that comes with everything you'll need except the ingredients for about $60. An ingredient kit usually costs about $22 a batch here. If you save your non-screw top brown bottles, you won't have to buy them, but my HB shop will sell you a case of bottles - plus a nifty divided cardboard box - for $11.

As you get into it, and realize that you're saving money making it yourself, AND drinking better beer in the process, your wife will be able to look at the bottom line and give in a bit. Consider: Once the initial brewing kit is purchased, you're buying 2 cases of beer for $22. That's at LEAST half price if not more!

Welcome to the fold, Wicked! I'm sure there are plenty of people here willing to help you out any way they can.

[WickedInfractio]

Thanks Fretlessman71!

The $60 is nothing compared to what i would save in the long run thats perfect! Could you tell me how much the kit makes and how long it takes for each batch? thanks again Fretlessman!!

[fretlessman71]

Each kit makes 5 gallons, or right around 50 twelve ounce bottles. Takes about 3-6 weeks, depending on what you're making.

Off to work - gotta run! Good luck!

[danno]

Wickedinfraction, you're probably better off getting a starter kit from a homebrew store, instead of trying to piecemeal one together. You can get a very servicable kit that will last you as long as you want for around $100, including the ingredients for your first batch. I'm in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area, so I'll throw you a couple of links for starter kits.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/starterkits.html

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/products/equipkit.asp

I actually prefer NB as my LHBS, but I believe Midwest's intermediate starter kit is the best deal, and it includes a how to video...

one more thing, I'm convinced the "homebrewing is cheaper" theory is a complete crock. when my friends ask how much I've spent on brewing equipment, the standard answer (when my wife is around) is "enough to know I better not add it all up". But, it's a cheaper hobby than, say, boating...

[WickedInfractio]

Thanks alot for the info Danno. Looks like i might be saying the same thing around my wife lol Oh yeah one more question....whats the average percentage of alcohol when you home brew? Im used to around 5.9% from what i drink right now.

[paul84043]

Ah yes....all the questions swirling around in your head!!! I remember it well....

I sort of disagree with Danno's take on the expense of homebrewing. I spent Waayyy too much money when I got into it, probably in the range ot 600$+ in equipment alone, but it has already paid for itself in the beer that we made and consumed over the past year. (More than paid for itself.. and the beer is MUCH better)
Once you have covered your initial investment, I personally feel that it is a considerable savings, especially when I compare it to the cost or "real" beer available locally. (a six pack of guiness is over 13$ here.)
Most of the starter kits all include the same basic items. The biggest issue is going to be shipping costs. If you have a HomeBrew store available to you locally, I would definitely check it out. Thier expertise is invaluable when you get in a tight spot.
There are also some sites (Austin Homebrew Supply) that ship free if your order is over 60$. That can be a considerable savings.
As for alcohol content, you can make them pretty much whatever you want, with certain limitations. If you try to make a high gravity Pilsener, it won't taste like a pilsener, more like a Pale ale...The style of the beer needs to be taken into consideration as well.
There are lots of basic tips that beginners should get under thier belt before getting started, but these can be addressed very quickly. Most are covered very well with one of the good popular homebrewing books available, most of your beginner kits will also include this as an option.
Most importantly is to not get overwhelmed. None of us are rocket scientists (well, some may be...) and if we can do it, you can do it.
It's extremely difficult to screw up beer. You may change the style, the taste, stuff like that, but invariably you will still make good beer.
Expect to spend around 100$ to get going. You can spend a little more and get some nifty little add ons that make some things easier, but are not absolute necessities. You can also spend less, and still get things rolling just fine.
If you have specific questions just ask, a good suggestion would be to search the forum for specific items and see what other people have asked. I'll pretty much guarantee that you can't ask a question that we haven't covered before.
THis is probably THE best beer forum on the net, there are a bunch of great people here and someone is bound to have the answer to anything you care to ask.

[Jughead]

The alcohol level is up to you.
If you are using an extract kit, the kit will no doubt tell you to dump in a bunch of sugar. You can vary the alcohol level by varying the amount of sugar you dump in, or by adding more or less water.

Most kits end up around 5% by vol. if you follow the instructions.

Of course most of the people on this board will try to convince you not to use sugar at all. Instead you can dump in a second extract kit to make up for the sugar, but this may over-hop the beer if the extracts have hops in them. So you can look for unhopped extracts, or use dry malt extracts (DME). More fermentables equals more alcohol.

When you get your starter kit, it should come with a hydrometer. Read the instructions that come with it. Hydrometer readings take before fermentation and after fermentation will tell you what the finished alcohol level is.

[Beerconnoisseur]

See attachment.

[BeerBelly]

Homebrew Wholesale has kits for 69.95 including ingredients
http://homebrewwholesale.com/beginner_kits.asp

And http://www.austinhomebrew.com/ has extract kits for 14.99, and on top that if you order 60 plus they pay shipping.

My wife was giving me alot of slack obout the money I spent on brew stuff, so I got her a big diamond. And know she cant complain about the money I spend on this cheap hobby of mine. :D

[danno]

Paul, you must have much more self control than I do, because I can't seem to stop buying more "stuff" for brewing. :D

First it was that oh so innocent looking $59.99 startup kit. But no, me the MacGuyver gadget freak: first full volume boils, counterflow chiller, then kegging, then oxygenation system, then more carboys, then more kegs, and now the building of a 3 tier all grain setup, then there will be the remodeling of the basement to put in a bar, etc etc etc...

Plus, as BeerBelly so aptly points out, there's the "incidental" costs of keeping the wife happy...

[paul84043]

I'm a died in the wool gadget freak too, but limited on funds...I haven't ventured into kegging yet, only Party Pigs. I will probably spring for the Gott cooler partial mash setup, it seems pretty well thought out and worth the extra time. I don't see myself getting into all grain any time soon, just too intensive.

I think you've got me beat though as far as equipment...

It's all good though!

[GunNut76]

WickedInfractio- Here is a recipe for a quick amber ale...it was my first homebrew and it turned out better than I expected. My batch was 2 gallons so I'll have to guess at the amounts, but they will be close.

Recipe for:

"Just Because I Can" Amber Ale

Grains:
------------
1 lb Crystal 60

Steeped Crystal in bottled water at 160 F for 30 min.

Boil:
---------
60 min. boil

5 lb Amber DME (Laaglander)

Hops:
---------
1 oz Cascade (60 min)
.5 oz Willamette (30 min)
.5 oz Willamette (5 min)

Yeast:
----------
2 packs Danstar Windsor dry yeast...rehydrated with warm water and about 3 tsp of corn sugar at the 30 min point of boil.

OG was not at 1.040 so I added corn sugar untill it was...there was no "rocket fuel" taste as the amount of dextrose was small (about 1/2 or 3/4 cup) just make sure to stir the wort very well after adding the dextrose to get an accurate hydrometer reading, an added bonus to stiring is oxygenating the wort. Brewed, fermented and bottled in 10 days...decent carb level in 4 days YMMV. As I said this was originally a 2 gallon recipe so the amounts WILL not be totaly accurate. Have fun and brew on!

[WickedInfractio]

Alot of great info so far guyz thanks everyone! i think i found my second home. :D

[fretlessman71]

You don't mind if I steal this, do you? I have a few questions (I always do, don't I? *SIGH...*)...

What is "Crystal 60?"

Did you re-calculate the quantites for a 5 gallon batch, or is this still for a 2 gallon batch?

Regarding the hops: Do you add the Cascade right off the bat, add half of the Willamette at the halfway point, and the other half with 5 minutes to go?

If I don't rehydrate the dry yeast (I've had problems with this before), will there be any disadvantage other than waiting longer before fermentation begins?

What do you think would happen if I just used more DME instead of corn sugar to raise the OG?

And, lastly... What is YMMV?

Thanks GunNut!

Originally posted by GunNut76
Recipe for:

"Just Because I Can" Amber Ale

Grains:
------------
1 lb Crystal 60

Steeped Crystal in bottled water at 160 F for 30 min.

Boil:
---------
60 min. boil

5 lb Amber DME (Laaglander)

Hops:
---------
1 oz Cascade (60 min)
.5 oz Willamette (30 min)
.5 oz Willamette (5 min)

Yeast:
----------
2 packs Danstar Windsor dry yeast...rehydrated with warm water and about 3 tsp of corn sugar at the 30 min point of boil.

OG was not at 1.040 so I added corn sugar untill it was...there was no "rocket fuel" taste as the amount of dextrose was small (about 1/2 or 3/4 cup) just make sure to stir the wort very well after adding the dextrose to get an accurate hydrometer reading, an added bonus to stiring is oxygenating the wort. Brewed, fermented and bottled in 10 days...decent carb level in 4 days YMMV. As I said this was originally a 2 gallon recipe so the amounts WILL not be totaly accurate. Have fun and brew on!

[danno]

Crystal 60 is a specialty grain, see any of the online homebrew shops for a fuller desription. It is steeped, to impart flavor and color to your batch....

Looks like a 5 gal batch to me....

Re: Hops; you are correct, quoted times indicate how much time is left in the boil when you add them...

(I'll leave the yeast question for someone else, I've always used liquid yeast, not dry...)

DME is better than corn sugar, IMO. (in my opinion). However, if you have a specific OG in mind, it will take more DME than sugar, as it doesn't completely ferment.

YMMV = Your mileage may vary

[GunNut76]

Originally posted by fretlessman71
You don't mind if I steal this, do you? I have a few questions (I always do, don't I? *SIGH...*)...

What is "Crystal 60?"

Did you re-calculate the quantites for a 5 gallon batch, or is this still for a 2 gallon batch?

Regarding the hops: Do you add the Cascade right off the bat, add half of the Willamette at the halfway point, and the other half with 5 minutes to go?

If I don't rehydrate the dry yeast (I've had problems with this before), will there be any disadvantage other than waiting longer before fermentation begins?

What do you think would happen if I just used more DME instead of corn sugar to raise the OG?

And, lastly... What is YMMV?

Thanks GunNut!

Fretless-

1. Crystal 60 is a specialty grain that has a color of 60 on the Lovibond scale.

2. I never really calculated for the 2 gallon batch! :D I am usually very lucky in the kitchen with recipes, but that is just me...this recipe will make a 5 gallon batch.

3. The Cascades were added at the begining of the boil...The Willemettes were added half way and with five min. left.

4. I have always rehydrated my yeast because I feel it gives them a little extra boost and reduces lag time IMO.

5. You could add more DME or stay with the corn sugar...this recipe is not written in stone. I added corn sugar because that was all I had...it probably resulted in the beer being drier. If you use more DME the flavor will be sweeter. Just be sure that if you do add more DME that you add it at the boil. I don't know what will happen if you don't boil DME...I suspect the beer will be cloudy. Anyone else want to help me out on this one?

6. YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary

No problems in answering those questions...thats what we all are here for.

[S.F.B.]

Here is a kit that my local sells. This is the one I started with. I now have 2 primaries, 5 carboys, immersion chiller, kegging set up with 7 cornies, dedicated beer fridge and am upgrading my 32 qt. boiler to a 15 gallon. Just waiting for the welder to finish his work. All of this has cost me less than $500. If you can find the right connections you can cut a bunch of the cost out.

The average cost of the ingredients for my beer is around $25-$30.


a 6-gallon plastic primary fermenter (some will tell you to upgrade to glass. I have been using plastic from the start with no problems)

a 5-gallon glass carboy

a 400-page book (the "bible") - The Joy of Homebrewing

a glass triple-scale hydrometer

a floating dairy thermometer

a permanent stick-on color-changing thermometer for your primary fermenter

a heavy-duty capper

a spring-loaded bottle filler

an automatic syphon starter/racking cane combo (these are VERY cool!!)

6-feet of siphon tubing w/a large hose clamp

an airlock and rubber stopper

a 4 ounce jar of Iodophor for sterilizing

a pound of corn sugar for bottling

about 110 bottle caps

The cost of this hardware setup is $75.00

Oh yeah. welcome. :)

[badogg]

Just remember that there are 2 very important guidlines... 1) Sanitation is soooo important 2) have fun with it, don't let it become a job. ;)

[paul84043]

I never used a Plastic bucket for my primary, I started out with two plastic conicals. If I were to do it again, I would not buy the conicals, they are cool and they work very well, but the carboy approach is actually simpler and works better.
I have the strip thermometers on a few of my carboys, but never even look at them anymore. I know what temp the rooms I put my fermenters in run at, and there's really not alot I could do about it if it were different. I put them in an upstaris room in the winter which stays between 68 and 72F, in the summer the basement is the same.
I know what temp I cool my wort to before putting it into the fermenter, so I don't use them there either.
They're nice to have as a point of reference when youre getting started though.
The thermometer I bought is all metal and hooks onto the side of my brewpot.

A hydrometer is a must as far as I'm concerned, but you would be surprised at how many people don't use one and have never screwed up a batch.

I bought the New joy of homebrewing and read it once when I was getting on my feet, and have never opened it since.

The autosiphon is a fantastic litte device to have...well worth the 12$

I actually bought two cappers....one as a backup. I got bottling my first batch and had a few caps go on strange....I then realized that if your capper were to break, you would be dead in the water and would probably throw out a batch.

THe spring loaded filler nozzle is another wonder of modern science....I don't worry about the spring loaded ones, I just use the ones that rely on back pressure to keep them closed. THey work great. I have an extra one of those on hand as well.

Some items are a must, others are a convenience. You'll figure it out as you go.

[Aleman]

One more thought on cost justification for your spouse:

Brew at least one batch of Strong Belgian Ale at least four or five times a year.

Chimay Grand 30 22-ounce bottles=$240
My All Grain version=$27
Saving =$213
Brew 4 times a year=$852 annual savings

That does not count the Scottish Ales and Holiday wonders that are equally valuable. Yes, I save a LOT of money.

That will buy a lot of equipment!

[LorenzoJ]

Another unexpected upside for your wife will be that you'll actually have to do a pretty good job cleaning up the kitchen as some parts of this "hobby" can be more then a bit messy....... AND I'M SURE none of us leave the cleanup for some one else... Right !