chilling wort

[emenzer]

Just curious!!! Is using a wort chiller really all that much more efficient and better for the beer to just save 15 minutes as opposed to just dropping the pot in a tub of ice and getting it down to yeast pitching temp in 30 minutes instead of 10-15 with a wort chiller??

[brewmonkey]

Yes it is better. Allowing wort to cool over a longer period will allow the precursors to DMS to convert into DMS which can be a problem once the beer is fermenting.


DMS is a bigger problem especially when using Lager (lower modification) malts rather then Pale malts. If you are using an extract it's anybodies guess as to what malts went into producing it.

[chris1kanobi]

It would be very diffacult to get my converted keg into an ice bath. And it would take a lot of ice. As was stated before, the faster it gets chilled, the faster you can pitch the yeast, and the less chance of beasties.

[brewmonkey]

Originally posted by chris1kanobi
It would be very diffacult to get my converted keg into an ice bath. And it would take a lot of ice. As was stated before, the faster it gets chilled, the faster you can pitch the yeast, and the less chance of beasties.

That is incorrect Chris. Rapid chilling does not decrease your chances of "beasties". In fact it could be argued the opposite is true. Once you bring the wort below the 185F mark you start to increase your chances of foreign bacteria making your wort their humble abode.

Chilling rapidly decreases the chances that the precursor to Di-Methyl Sulfide (DMS) will convert into DMS and leave that wonderful aroma/flavor of rotting veggie's.

[chris1kanobi]

I agree, DMS is a bad thing too. I guess what I am trying to say is the faster you go from 185' to 75' (or your pitching temperature) the less time bacteria has to infect the wort. I think we are saying pretty much the same thing. Faster cool = better beer. :)

[paul84043]

There is some wisdom to getting your wort chilled below 80F as quickly as possible as far as beasties are concerned too, certain most common forms of bacteria grow fastest at higher temps, right to the point that the heat starts to kill them off.
So, you want it hot or cool, and you want to get past the inbetween stage as fast as possible.
This also stimulates the precipitation of certain protiens into solid form, thus allowing them to fall out of suspension, this is called the "cold break". The faster the better, if you cool too slowly, you won't get much cold break.

My batches usually start life at around 4 to 5 gallons, I'm not too particular about a starting amount, the more fermentables, the more water I use, this of course takes longer to get to a boil.
Anyway, by the time I'm done cooking, I usually have about 3+ gallons left. I use an immersion copper coil chiller and I cool my wort to 75F in under 5 minutes.
Definitly worth the 15$ in copper tubing and fittings.

[S.F.B.]

I don't know if it is all psychological or what but I have noticed a definite change in the quality of my beer since using a chiller. I get my 4.5-5 gallons of wort down to pitching temp in 10-15 min as compared to the 45 min. to an hour it took when I used ice water baths.

[YamahaXS]

another thing about chillers is that, IMO, they are EASIER than any other cooling technique. But not as easy as simply letting your beer cool over night, which is something I used to do. I brew better beer now than then, but I also do a lot of things different so its hard for me to attribute the exact benefits fo the chiller.

On a scale of 1 - 10, with 10 being absolutely essential, I would judge a wort chiller to be about a 5 because 1) there are other, albeit, less convenient methods and 2) you will still get good beer (but presumably, not as good) if don't chill down quickly. That said, chillers are easy and cheap to make, so why not drop a few dollars and start using one?

[Brownbeard]

I currently do partial boils and simply add ice to my hot wort to get it down to temp, cools down in seconds that way. I am sure I am get aeration in the wort that I do not want though. Plus I want to go to full boils. Plus I have a converted pony keg I am itching to use. I need to get a chiller made. I am torn over 3/8 vs 1/2 inch tubing. I need to just pull the trigger.

[paul84043]

What size of batches are you anticipating doing in your converted keg?
For the standard 5 gallon batch, the 3/8 works just fine. I don't know if a larger batch would benefit from larger tubing.

Another thing I tried ths summer when I did brew was to use a pre-chiller. It's just another chiller, but the shape and size are much less critical and depend on what you have available to put icewater in.
It worked absolute wonders. I'm going to keep on using it when the outside temp is even moderately warm.

[Brownbeard]

I will be doing 5 gal batches.

[Brownbeard]

I was speaking with my brother this evening who is one of those guys that has a contraption for every purpose. I was telling him about the wort chiller I want to make and he suggested I use the heater core from a car, a new one of course. It is a coil of copper tubing with an inlet and outlet that is designed to have water flow through it. And get this, it is covered in copper fins which will create loads of surface area to collect heat. Anybody here got an opinion or experience with this? I can buy a replacement heater core from autozone for $15.99. They are 8"x8"x2".

[b3s]

heh, i was just thinking about that...a lot of surface area on those things...my 2 concerns were: can you really get it clean and will it fit in my brewpot.

[Brownbeard]

I spent last night pricing these things, and did not come across one that would not fit in the brew pot. Getting it clean would be the kicker. I think you would want to soak the thing every time you used it. I am so anal, I would do that with an immersion chiller anyway. I am going to the parts store this weekend to look at one up close.

[paul84043]

The immersion chillers are unbelievably easy to clean, I would think that a heater core would clog up with the protien solids and hops.
I spray mine off immediately after removing from (and completely covering) the cooled wort, you/ve got a hose hooked right to it, it's already on....pretty simple...

Then it goes onto it's hanger (nail) in the garage. THe next time I need it, I pull it down, look it over for creepy crawlies (none to date), rinse it off with the hose, and plunk it into the wort at the 15 minute mark. The boil sanitizes everything nicely.
Be careful to keep the hoses away from the burner....gravity is a bitch...

[chris1kanobi]

My Dad uses a small heatercore as a pre-chiller for his chiller water. The water flows from the tap into the heatercore, which is submerged in ice water, then it goes into the wort chiller and back out. It cuts his chill time in half.

[toneyc]

Are the automobile heater cores made with lead-free solder?

:eek:
Toney.

[Brownbeard]

I am not sure on that. I would call the maufacturer before I purchased one. I am beginning to think the cleaning problems would be enough to make it easier to have the regular immersion chiller.

[ray m]

Originally posted by chris1kanobi:
_________________________________________
My Dad uses a small heatercore as a pre-chiller for his chiller water. The water flows from the tap into the heatercore, which is submerged in ice water, then it goes into the wort chiller and back out. It cuts his chill time in half.
_________________________________________

Chris, you have me curious.....I have tried the pre-chiller idea 3 or 4 times previously....I used a second copper immersion chiller that I made, which I submerged in ice water. This chiller was, of course, hooked up to the main chiller in the wort. This method did nothing for decreasing the chill time. What gives??

Drink hearty!!!! Up the irons!!!!

Ray

[chris1kanobi]

A heater core has lots of surface area. This one happens to be made of aluminum which is very heat conductive. My Dad also puts rock salt in the ice water and agitates the heatercore in the ice water. I personaly like to keep things simple and use a 50 ft. 3/8" copper immersion and it takes no time at all. Perhaps more surface area is the trick? I am not sure.

[paul84043]

I don't see how a pre chiller could not help, unless your chilled water is basically the same temp as the water coming out of your tap??

It cut my time by 1/3 at least, and my times are pretty dang good with just one chiller alone. I've never taken more than 8 minutes to cool off a batch.