3 hearted magnum ale ?

[Scott Miller]

How is this for an over the hop IPA ?

( It's Northern Brewers 3 hearted ale, + 1 oz Magnum hops)

1 lb. Briess Caramel 40 steeped at 150 for 30 minutes.
9.15 lbs. Gold Malt Syrup, 1.064 OG.
1 oz Magnum at 60 min,
1 oz centennial at 30,
1 oz centennial at 15
1 oz centennial at 10,
1 oz centennial at 5,

And 1 oz centennial dry hop in secondary.
??

[hooky]

Hugely bitter. I'm coming up with 95 IBU and bitterness ratio of 1.5 in a beer with that SG.

I've never used the Golden Syrup before, but I'm assuming that it ferments pretty well since it's inverted sugar. I'd be inclined to pull out 1/2 the magnum and half of the first centennial addition. Either that or add a couple of lbs of extract and leave the hop schedule alone. Total SWAG on my part, so take it FWIW.

[Mad Scientist]

Yeah, I'd keep the hop schedule and boost the malt a bit more, bring the gravity up to about 1.075 to 1.080.

Or, add the magnum at 45 or 35 minutes, that way it decreases the overall IBU...the 15 minutes between 60 & 45 will make a huge difference.

[Scott Miller]

Thanks for the advice, I don't want to make it undrinkabley bitter.
I did the 3 hearted kit before, and it was a hoppy and balanced, I guess what I want to do is tweak it with some different hop flavor and and be able to use the centennial hops it comes with to supercharge the aroma. I do have a pound of light DME and 1 oz of Magnum hops.

When I did this before it was 5.5 gallon boil on the stovetop. I got the feeling that it never really hopped all that it should have.
I'm planning on doing this as a 3 gallon boil on the stove, I just did a Hefe in the shed with the doors open and I damn near got carbon monoxided to death. I got sick enough to yakk a few times behind the shed, lol.

[hooky]

If you cut the boil volume, use the original hop schedule and add the extract, you'll end up at 1081 using the extract and your IBU's will be 56 for a bitterness ratio of .70.

Maybe take your 30 min addition and add it with your magnum at 60. Move your 15 to 30 and you'll end up with 65 IBU's and a bitterness ratio of .80.

Amazing the difference boil volume makes.

Maybe do a full volume boil closer to the shed's door than last time? :D

BTW, I'm just plugging this into beersmith. You might want to download the trial version and goof around with the recipe. It's a great way to waste time.

[Mad Scientist]

Originally posted by Scott Miller
I just did a Hefe in the shed with the doors open and I damn near got carbon monoxided to death. I got sick enough to yakk a few times behind the shed, lol.

Shit!! If you are feeling sick at all using a propane burner, then you are not getting the proper ventilation...if you are barfing, then you are at serious levels of CO poisoning...a simple box fan on high, set to pull air out works wonders.

[markaberrant]

If you want more flavour/aroma, just use the Centennials with a hop burst schedule. Without modifying the base grain (1.064 OG), something like this should be good:

(still do a full 60 -90 minute boil)
1.5oz 20 minutes
1.5oz 10 minutes
1.5oz 5 minutes
1.5oz dry hop

This will still give you about the same amount of bitterness as the original recipe, but tons more flavour/aroma (without it being over the top... in my opinion).

[Carl Spakler]

Originally posted by Boerne Brew
Shit!! If you are feeling sick at all using a propane burner, then you are not getting the proper ventilation...if you are barfing, then you are at serious levels of CO poisoning...a simple box fan on high, set to pull air out works wonders.

Don't mess with CO issues! IIRC the pattern of CO poisoning is you get "sleepy" and want to rest from your body being starved for oxygen but not realizing it. Many people don't get a second chance with CO poisoning.

With regard to the hopping is it more of the bitterness ratio than the IBU that would determine how drinkable the beer is?

[Mad Scientist]

Originally posted by Carl Spakler
With regard to the hopping is it more of the bitterness ratio than the IBU that would determine how drinkable the beer is?

Sort of both really...IBU is a total number in measuring bitterness, but the ratio help to understand bitterness to maltiness. In a way they go hand in hand, but they are useful in helping people understand how to hop their beer...
For what it is worth, I paymore attention to the IBU rather than the ratio, where as others pay more attention to the ratio....either way you do it, it is very helpful in achieving the propper hopping.

[Scott Miller]

Well, I went with just the centennial hops, but I "continually" hopped the 20 and 5 minute additions, (started at 25 and ended at 18), (started at 7 and ended at 4), and I really had this sucker boiling the whole time. Used the hurricane burner and made a plywood windblock so I could sit on the back steps and brew out of the wind. That was two weeks ago, and it was 60 + outside, now its 30 - , and going to be that way for awhile. Thats the last time I can brew full boils this year.

[Mad Scientist]

Originally posted by Scott Miller
Well, I went with just the centennial hops, but I "continually" hopped the 20 and 5 minute additions, (started at 25 and ended at 18), (started at 7 and ended at 4), and I really had this sucker boiling the whole time. Used the hurricane burner and made a plywood windblock so I could sit on the back steps and brew out of the wind. That was two weeks ago, and it was 60 + outside, now its 30 - , and going to be that way for awhile. Thats the last time I can brew full boils this year.

If you can ventilate properly, try brewing in the garage.