Chest Freezer Conversion

[Beerisgood3]

Hello folks. First time poster, long time reader.

After much research, i've decided to go with a chest freezer. I'll get one somewhere from 7-9 cuft, because all i really need to hold is a single commercial keg. Now come the questions:

There are a lot of pro's and con's to using a tower vs a collar.

As far as tower's go, i like the overall look/feel better. Also, i could use a drip tray with a drain into the freezer which i like (any problem with doing this?). However, there's the problem of the first poor foamies. How well does a home-rigged computer fan with a PVC barrel shoved up to the top of the tower really work to cure this? Also, how can you hardwire the fan? When the freezer cycles on/off with the external thermostat, won't the fan cycle too?

With the collar, i dont have to deal with cooling a tower, and the freezer can also be used to store a few cases of beer, and have the lid opened regularly to get them (like during a party), which i feel like you can't do with a tower. However, having a drip tray on the front (i would use magnet strips to attach it), seems like a liability. I'm a college student, and many of my friends are very clumsy. I feel like the drip tray would be kicked off all the time, and beer spilled everywhere.


Really, the only thing that i like better about going the tower route are the fact that it's a tower, and that i can have a drained drip tray (that won't be kicked off the side of the freezer)

The reasons i like the collar are, i can use the freezer for other stuff, i dont have to deal with cooling the tower.

I'm at a loss as to what to do.

Any advice you have is welcome.

[HogieWan]

If you get a "wall mount" drip tray (like these (http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/drip-trays-cid-23.html)), you don't have to worry about people knocking it off.

[corkybstewart]

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/559380366UXhsco

Here are pictures of my kegerator. I had a tower at first, it was a royal PITA. Hard to cool the faucets in the summer, to open it I had to pull it away from the wall. It's on casters but any piece of crap on the garage floor would stop at least one wheel. Then the beer would get shook up. I used a casserole dish as a drip tray, that was handy but not a great selling point.
Then I took the tower off and went with a collar. 100 times better. The taps are mounted solidly, the gas manifold is mounted solidly, and the increased height lets me store lots more bottled beer on top of the kegs.
Mine is a 12.8 cu ft, it holds 6 kegs with the CO2 bottle outside. Right now I even have a 2 gallon bucket of Sangria on the compressor shelf.
I had my drip tray built at a welding shop for $40. I drilled holes in the upper corners and it hangs from screws so its easy to remove and clean. It also has cork spacers to keep it away from the wood.

[Beerisgood3]

A few things. If i go with a collar, i was going to get a drip tray like those, but i wasn't going to screw it on, i was going to get magnets for the back of it so it could easily be removed and drained.

Secondly, if this makes any difference to you, the kegerator will be in a living room of my appartment.

From the one response however, seems that i'd want to go with a collar. One quesiton though, how is it attached to the base of the freezer? If i did one, i'd want it to look something like this:

http://www.schwedhelm.net/brew/freezerator.html

Where the freezer looks almost un-modified.

How does the collar sta on? A wooden lip on the inside? A bracket that screws into the old lid screws?

[corkybstewart]

I just used a thick bead of Liquid Nails, that thing is never coming loose.
And my drip tray isn't screwed on, I used screws with 3/16" heads(I think) and drilled 5/16" holes in the drip tray so it hangs, but is very easy to remove. With magnets somebody will bump it and it will spill beer all over your floor.

[BrewDog]

My Kegerator (http://www.west-point.org/users/usma1986/42894/kegerator.htm)

I used a 1x6 facade in conjunction with a 2x4. The facade is on the front and 2 sides, and it holds quite snugly. I also used stick-on weather stripping underneath the 2x4 on all 4 sides. On the back, the hinges were re-screwed into the 2x4 and the back of the freezer. This is more than sufficient to keep the lid on and to prevent hot air from entering & cold air from escaping.



HTH-

[Beerisgood3]

So as far as sealing goes...

You put some weather stripping on the bottom of the collar, and that's it? The lid already has it's own weather stripping. Is this correct?

How else did other people attach their collars? I mean, there's a 99.5% chance that this freezer will forever be a kegerator, so i'm not that worried about using some liquid nails to attach the collar to the top. If i do this route, i assume no weather stripping is needed on the bottom of the collar, as the liquid nails will form it's own seal.


As far as a new thermostat, what do you suggest? Should i replace the old thermo, or get an external one? I don't need anything fancy here, just something that will keep it at a constant 38ish. As far as replacing the old one, i'm not really to sure how to unwire/rewire a thermo, i dont have much (read: any) experience with circuits/electrical wiring.

Furthermore, where do you suggest i buy the conversion kit/thermostat from? Is there a site that's known to have better/less expensive products?


Seems like building a collar, and getting a new thermostat are the only steps to converting a chest freezer. Seems pretty easy.

[HogieWan]

I did a collar with weather stripping and an external thermo (I don't know of anyone that has replaced the internal one).

[Beerisgood3]

Originally posted by HogieWan
I did a collar with weather stripping and an external thermo (I don't know of anyone that has replaced the internal one).

If you did it with weather stripping, how did you attach it to the freezer body? Seems to me like it's either weather stripping and then a lip OR liquid nails, no lip, and no weatherstripping.

[BrewDog]

I cut everything very carefully so that the only screws were used on the hinge brackets on the back. In effect, the collar just sits on top of the freezer, but the cover is pretty heavy and it squishes it down (the hinge is spring loaded so it's easy to open). Yes, the cover has its own weather stripping, so nothing was needed there.

Believe me, it's not moving, and the seal is good.

[Beerisgood3]

Well, yours CAN just sit on top, because you have the 1x6 facade that makes it so it can't slide around.

If you look at the link i posted, there doesn't seem to be any inner/outer lip. I assume that with no lip (or facade), there HAS to be some way to hold it on there.


I've been thinking about buying a 2 tap version, because it seems like nobody is content with only one type of beer. Is the output pressure on the regulator still ~12-14 PSI for most standard beers, even when using 2 kegs? What if i want to have two beers that require different PSI's? It seems that i'd have to buy a second regulator, though i'm not sure where it would go in the gas lsystem.

[Christiansen]

I also have the chest freezer with a collar. I used weather stripping on the bottom, and then, just to be sure, I caulked the inside as well. The collar isn't going anywhere. To be honest, I don't think I could take the collar off if I wanted to. Whenever I do have to move it around (I had a leak once...15 gallons of beer sitting in the bottom of my kegerator :( Had to take it outside to drain it...), I just push it around by the collar. It doesn't budge.

And the output pressure would be the same no matter how many kegs you have. When you set it to 12 psi, it applies 12 psi to every single surface in the system (unless you have a leak). There is no need for a second regulator.

[hooky]

Originally posted by Beerisgood3
If i did one, i'd want it to look something like this:

http://www.schwedhelm.net/brew/freezerator.html



If you look at this link you posted, you can see that he has two regulators set up. Each look to have different pressures.
They're plumbed with gas line. You can also plumb them like this:


Dual regulator (http://www.northernbrewer.com/pics/fullsize/dbl-gas-reg.jpg)

[Beerisgood3]

Originally posted by hooky
If you look at this link you posted, you can see that he has two regulators set up. Each look to have different pressures.
They're plumbed with gas line. You can also plumb them like this:


Dual regulator (http://www.northernbrewer.com/pics/fullsize/dbl-gas-reg.jpg)

That's sorta what i figured. Do you think that it's necessary to get the 2nd regulator like that? Just so you can tweek each keg individually, or is it a waste of money?

Also, do you have to buy 2 Dual regulators for that, and remove the guage on one, or is there an output on the single guage regulators that could be used to connect it to a dual.

[hooky]

I use two reguators because the kids have a root beer keg and it's served at higher pressure. Otherwise, I haven't brewed a style that requires a drastic change in pressure.

You can buy a secondary regulator. Mine is plumbed differently than the primary. If I had my camera handy, I'd take a pic.




secondary regulator (http://morebeer.com/view_product/16193/102237)

[Beerisgood3]

So do you think that 2 regulators is over kill?

I mean, really, i'm going to be drinking stuff like shiner, yuengling, sam adams, etc.....i assume they all work at the same pressure. Is there any reason that i would WANT to be able to tweak each kegs pressure a little bit, like if one seems to be pouring slowly or somthing.

And if i do need 2 regs, and i assume i can just buy 2 dual guage regs, and remove one of the guages and get an attachment piece. The reason i'd want to do this is because beveragecity.com only offers one reg that has an "easy adjust" pressure setting, which happens to be a dual guage. The other ones all require a screwdriver to adjust pressure.

[corkybstewart]

What size kegs are you going to buy. If you're going to use 1/2 barrel(15 gallon) a chest freezer is not a very good idea unless you're big enough to lift 160 pounds of keg and beer into the freezer. Chest freezers are great for homebrew in Cornelius kegs, not very good for commercial kegs.

[hooky]

That's a great point corky.

I couldn't see the forest because of all the trees.

[corkybstewart]

One of my employees earlier this year was going to build one like mine until I pointed out thata keg outweighs him by about 30 pounds. A fridge with a front opening door is the best way to go for full kegs.

[Beerisgood3]

I'd buy 1/4's and 1/2's, but i'm not worried about it.

How often do you have to replace a keg, monthly? I'll be fine.
Plus, how much does a decent upright fridge cost? What size? Fridge, or another freezer conversion? I never even considered this route. Are you talking about a normal mini-fridge?

Anyhow, what do you all think about that regulator question?

[hooky]

In your intiial post, You say you're only going to serve a single commercial keg. If that's still the case, you'll have no need for 2 regulators.

Can't help you with the fridge cost question.

[Beerisgood3]

Right, i initially thought only 1 keg, however the more i think about it, i might want to have 2 taps, one standard 1/2 barrel, and then another 1/4 of something different.

[dparsons]

My only comment is that I've looked at the 7 cu ft freezers and thought they were way too small. I keep 4 flavors of beer on tap and sometimes wish for more as my preference for the evening isn't one of the current 4.

[corkybstewart]

I run 6 cornies off one regulator. It may not be ideal, but it's worked just fine for a long time.

[Christiansen]

Originally posted by corkybstewart
What size kegs are you going to buy. If you're going to use 1/2 barrel(15 gallon) a chest freezer is not a very good idea unless you're big enough to lift 160 pounds of keg and beer into the freezer. Chest freezers are great for homebrew in Cornelius kegs, not very good for commercial kegs.

I use a chest freezer and have two half barrels on tap... (It's hard to find anything else here...) But, if you do take this route, you'll probably want to atleast have a friend help you lift the keg into the chest.

As far as how often you have to replace a keg, it depends on how much you drink... A half barrel is 165 beers, give or take. As long as you keep the beer cold and under pressure, it won't go bad in a month, if that's what you were getting at.

As far as the fridge, I searched high and low for a mini fridge that would fit a 1/2 barrel, but I couldn't ever find one. I did buy a used full size up right fridge for $100, but it was from 1984 (the fridge was older than I was). It was during the summer and I kept it out in the garage. The compressor ended up dieing on me. That's when I found the chest freezer in the classifieds...the rest is history.

[De Hooter]

If I was trying to put half barrels in my kegerator (chest freezer style) I would probaly use my bloody engine hoist.... or a chain hoist hooked to a ladder, like those neat 6-8' tall stepladders, just use the blody thing like an A frame. Then again I would rather move a bunch of lighter stuff than rupture myself lifting a half barrel. OTOH, I use cornys so no problem for me.

[Elmo]

What size chest freezer would you all suggest for at least 3 quarter kegs?

[Beerisgood3]

I'm pretty sure a 7.2 will fit 3 quarters. 2 on the bottom (the skinny type), 1 on the shelf (the short stumpy type). However, if you want 3 of the tall skinny type, i'd guess an 8.8 would do you fine, not sure though.

[Elmo]

Originally posted by Beerisgood3
I'm pretty sure a 7.2 will fit 3 quarters. 2 on the bottom (the skinny type), 1 on the shelf (the short stumpy type). However, if you want 3 of the tall skinny type, i'd guess an 8.8 would do you fine, not sure though.

I don't think I can get the slim quaters in my area, not for Bass and MGD. I know I can get Yeungling... I'll see what my other stores say.

[Beerisgood3]

Ok. I just picked up my 7.2 today:

It can not fit 2 skinny 1/4's in the bottom. I returned it and got an 8.8. The 8.8 can definately fit 2 skinny 1/4's in the bottom, and MIGHT (i'm not sure at all), be able to fit a 3rd 1/4, if it's the pony type (short and stumpy) on the shelf, though i doubt it. However, if you build a big enough sleeve for it, like...out of 2x12, you could fit another skinny on the shelf.

[kilted brewer]

Quick question, and I don't mean to hijack...
Has anyone that's used a chest freexer somehow incorporated it into a bar you've built? I'm planning on building a bar, and using a chest freezer and just trying to brainstorm a way to make it all work.

[darylM]

Originally posted by kilted brewer
Quick question, and I don't mean to hijack...


I think everyone is guilty of this offense. At least its about chest freezers.

[Mill Rat]

Originally posted by kilted brewer
Quick question, and I don't mean to hijack...
Has anyone that's used a chest freexer somehow incorporated it into a bar you've built? I'm planning on building a bar, and using a chest freezer and just trying to brainstorm a way to make it all work. My biggest concern would be opening angles and liftover heights. If the freezer is set any distance under the bar, you may not be able to open the freezer fully and that will make getting cornys in and out a PITA. You might need to hinge the bartop above the freezer if nothing else will work. Watch for clearances if you going to put tap towers on the freezer, too.

[corkybstewart]

Even if you put casters on it so it'll roll and you have room to pull the freezer out they are very hard to move. Thge slightest piece of debris under a wheel stops the whole show. And you'll also have to consider where the lines go if you mount a tower on the bar top-you don't want 2 or 3 feet of beer line between the freezer and the tower just so you can raise the bartop(hinged) or roll the freezer out. That's why bars have beer coolers with sliding front doors.

[De Hooter]

I would be tempted to just put the taps in the collar and build a 'bar top' to drop over the lid of the freezer. Essentially a thick veneer (yes I know that veneer means a thin layer or sheet).

No, you won't have a fancy tower, but you also won't have all the headaches that go with that fancy tower.

[kilted brewer]

Wasn't going to go the route of a tower, but building the collar so many others have done for a front/side tap. The idea of a hindged bar top came to mind. Maybe just a raised portion or have a taller bar? How tall are chest freezers typically? With an added 4" for the sleeve is that too tall?

Maybe I'll just have to build the bar with the freezer behind. Faced with some wood panneling or something so theres not a big white cube in the nice bar :)

Again, just brainstorming, and I can move this if I'm hijacking too much.

[Mill Rat]

Originally posted by kilted brewer
Again, just brainstorming, and I can move this if I'm hijacking too much. You ain't even seen threadjacking if this is bugging you!

[KegCowboy.Com]

I agree with the collar you can continously modify your set up and if you mess up you are only out the cost of replacing a piece of wood. What about if you mount your drip tray to the collar using bolts and wingnuts? This will keep you from drilling into the freezer and will provide more security than your magnet attachment.

[abeck1969]

Ok...now you've done it. I'm thinking about a making one of these. Sheesh!

[KegCowboy.Com]

The other great thing about a collar is you can buy a shorter freezer since you will be increasing height with the collar. Really I inspired you to build a kegerator? Please let me know if I can help. Here are my kegerator instructions http://kegcowboy.com/page3.html
I hope you find them useful.

[HarkJohnny]

you might have some great information but I'll be darned if I'll put my eyes through the strain of trying to read anything from your site.

I'm not trying to be a jerk at all, but it's rather bad color scheme. some lighter background colors with contrast to the type color are in order.

[abeck1969]

Heheh...I meant the collective "you". As in y'all :-)

Your site is informative kegcowboy.

[KegCowboy.Com]

OK I guess I can understand that, however there is a new invention that will solve all your problems.........it's called a printer. Cutting and pasting into a word document or email also works - text will copy, color won't. I would be happy to send anyone who wants the kegerator instructions via email or custom build a kit to spec. and ship it assembled. For the remainder of the population the www.KegCowboy.com site will soon (by Oct 2007) have the kegerator instructions and it does have lighter colors.

[KegCowboy.Com]

Well I have an idea. If you could raise the freezer, or build a collar as discussed previously, so that the lid of the freezer is flush with the bottom of the bar then you could simply have the small portion of the bar (located above the freezer) hinge open with the freezer lid. This would allow you to change out the kegs. If you have enough beer line you could simply roll it out (towers coming out of the bar) or you can always place the freezer behind a wall with the taps wall mounted.