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View Full Version : Kegerator Build (Chest Freezer Conversion)


OU Brewer
05-26-2007, 01:56 PM
Hey anyone that's interested...

So after brewing beer for 5 months and bottling everything, I decided it was time to start kegging. Kegging is much easier and cheaper in the long run (for anyone that doesn't already know). Well I can't do anything half-ass so I figured I would look into making a kegerator. After much searching around the internet and reading forums like this one, I decided to go with the chest freezer conversion. This seemed the most economical to me. Originally I wanted a mini-fridge that could hold two kegs with a tower tap because I live in a college house with 3 other guys, so space is limited. But after looking into it, that option was more expensive and harder to do (finding a mini-fridge that could hold two kegs and CO2). I found a local place around here that sells used working appliances, and picked up a 10.5 cu/ft chest freezer for $48. I measured it before I bought it and found that with enough internal height I could fit 5 cornelius kegs in it. Here's how I did it:

Construction:
I took all concepts from sites like Oregon Brew Crew etc. (I have links at the end to all the chest freezer conversion sites I found)

First I built a collar out of 2X8's because the 8" addition to internal height allows me to put kegs up on the shelf.

Then I built an outside collar of 1X12's to hold it tight to the freezer and also to make it look cleaner. I did not put a 1X12 on the back side of the collar, it would offset the lid too far.

I used a couple 1X6 metal plates with pre-drilled holes and screwed them into the back 2X8 then used the original holes for the lid to secure the collar to the freezer base.

I used some high-density weather stripping between the wood collar and top the freezer to keep a good seal.

I measured carefully and drilled 5, 1" holes with a hole-saw bit for the taps.

I placed the lid on the collar, and while holding it down tightly, I marked and drilled holes for the screws to hold the lid on.

After all that, I disassembled the whole thing and painted the wood because I didn't like the look of the plain wood. I used latex semi-gloss to seal the wood as best as possible (because I didn't use cedar boards that resist moisture). I painted it Ohio University colors (and my favorite colors) black, green and a white pinstripe.

Equipment:
I bought all my equipment from my local homebrew store, the Athens Do-It-Yourself Shop.

First I needed to control the temperature. I ordered a replacement temp controller for a beer box. This was designed exactly like the controller that was built in to the freezer, but it had a different temp range (32-45F). This only cost my $45 with shipping.

I bought a 10lb. CO2 tank with a refurbished dual-gauge regulator. My homebrew store had regulators with 2, 3 and 5 outlets. I bought the 5. The CO2 tank full was $90 and the regulator with 5 outlets was $45.

I bought gas lines with shut-off valves in-line so that I can carbonate a keg at a high psi, and not over carbonate other beer thats already in there.

I bought 5 refurbished Cornelius kegs for $15 each (what a steal huh?)

I bought 3 standard taps with lines. (I will buy the last 2 when I have some more $ over the summer).

In the Future:
I would like to work something out like the Oregon Brew Crew did, and be able to make lagers in it.

The owner of my local homebrew shop asked me to use my kegerator in his homebrew competition over the summer. Very exciting! (The comp. is during Ohio Brew Week here in Athens. This is a week-long festival celebrating Micro-Brews from around Ohio and beer in general. Anyone interested in checking it out, go to www.ohiobrewweek.com)

Cost Summary:
Used chest freezer: $48
CO2 Tank: $90
Regulator: $45
Kegs: $15x5= $75
Taps: $40x3= $120
Temp. Controller: $45
Lines & Connectors: about $50
Wood, Paint, etc.: about $70

Total Cost: about $550
Having a kegerator, and having 5 of my homebrewed beers on tap: Priceless.

Thank you to everyone with websites up showing their chest freezer conversions, you inspired me and showed me how to do all of this. Also thank you to anyone on this forum and others that has posted something about this, I've probably read just about every post related to chest freezers conversions and kegerators in general.

Here are links to the sites I used as references:
http://www.oregonbrewcrew.com/freezer/freezer.html
http://kegerator.johnmasterson.com/
http://www.anthonyro.com/bar/
http://www.west-point.org/users/usma1986/42894/kegerator.htm
http://kpscellar.atlantabeer.com/bar/kegerator.html

chazwicke
05-26-2007, 03:02 PM
It sounds sweet. Do you have photos?

BrewDog
05-26-2007, 03:13 PM
Looks great! Glad to be of help-

OU Brewer
05-26-2007, 06:46 PM
I couldn't add pictures to my post, so for anyone that wants to check out my kegerator, go to:
http://community.webshots.com/album/559267343

BrewDog
05-26-2007, 10:55 PM
OU-

The pics look great-

I do have a question on picture CIMG1191 (taps and lines, interior of the kegerator). By my eye, it looks like you have about 2 feet of beer line. Have you balanced your system? Most home brew kegerators will foam up a lot unless they have about 5 feet of 3/16th in. beer line.

Here is a web page that shows you how to balance your beer lines. (http://kegman.net/balance.html)

And here's a thread from this site
http://www.realbeer.com/discussions/showthread.php?threadid=14533

chazwicke
05-27-2007, 08:49 AM
Nice job! Thanks for the pictures. I like the flexibility of having 5 kegs or if I was home brewing being able to lager as well as have brews on tap.

OU Brewer
05-27-2007, 09:46 AM
BrewDog,

Thanks for the site, there's some good stuff on there. I haven't balanced the system like they describe. I just set the PSI really low (around 3-7) for serving, and put it up to about 20-25 PSI when carbonating. If I'm carbonating a keg and trying to serve others still, I just use my shut-off valves and turn off CO2 to those, if they start to pour slowly, I just "bump" them by opening the valve for a second. The owner of my homebrew shop never mentioned anything about having a minimum length of hose, and he has 3 kegerators operating well at the store. He seems to not believe in using equations etc. for brewing, and every beer he's served me has been delicious, so I take his word.

If a beer is foamy when I switch from carbonating to serving, I just relieve some pressure through the air lock on the keg lid. After that it has always poured fine. If you think I'm doing something wrong, please let me know. I've only been kegging for a month so any advice is appreciated.

Elmo
06-08-2007, 10:50 PM
Looks awesome OU. I've been piecing together a similar system (just missing the freezer, of all pieces).

Just out of curiosity, did you consider covering the rest of the freezer in wood panels? I figure it would be hard to cover the lid, but it would make the wood from the lip seem a little less out of place.

I will most definatly have more questions for you when I eventually find a decent sized chest freezer that doesnt cost a whole ton.

BrewDog
06-08-2007, 11:38 PM
OU-

Sorry for taking so long to reply. Don't know how I missed your post.

Think about all the setting and resetting you are doing when carbonating and serving. You are making a lot more work for yourself than you need to do. By balancing the lines (5ft of 3/16th, 12psi, and 38F), you can set your pressure once and never need to change it again.

OU Brewer
06-11-2007, 01:32 PM
Elmo-

I have been considering covering the lid somehow since you mentioned it. It would cover the dent and fit well with the collar. It just needs to be pretty light, otherwise the hinge springs couldn't lift it. I don't think I'd cover the rest of the freezer though because: one, it would make it very heavy and difficult to disassemble when I move, and two, the freezer gets pretty warm when its cooling and I wouldn't want to restrict its heat dispersion. I am, however, working on building a drip tray to hang under the taps. Feel free to ask questions whenever, I'll be glad to help any that I can.


BD-

I asked the owner of the local brewshop about balancing my system, and he told me that as long as I have the right size hose on each end, it should be fine. My CO2 lines are just a little longer than the beer lines, and I haven't had any foaming problems. I'll look into it more, but it seems like more work and calculations to balance it, than to do what I'm doing.