PDA

View Full Version : New keg kettle

B_rad1969
05-20-2007, 11:14 AM
I made a kettle yesterday. I used my new Dremel and Roto-Zip. I roto-zipped the weld off the bottom and cleaned it up. The top was a real monster. It's hard to grind through metal in a circle. I think the next one I get I'll get through Sabco already cut. I still have to drill a hole in the bottom. It took almost 3 hrs. to do. But now I have a big kettle. Hopefully I'll get to brew a new batch in a couple of weeks and try it out.
Mad Scientist
05-20-2007, 02:40 PM
I'll bet you went through a bunch of cut-off wheels, huh?
B_rad1969
05-20-2007, 03:20 PM
I used 2 wheels and ran them down to about the size of a silver dollar.:D
Otis_The_Drunk
05-20-2007, 06:23 PM
When I had the top cut out of mine, I took it to a welder and he used aq plasma cutter.. It took 30 seconds. It cost me a 12 pack.
B_rad1969
05-20-2007, 07:47 PM
Originally posted by Otis_The_Drunk
When I had the top cut out of mine, I took it to a welder and he used aq plasma cutter.. It took 30 seconds. It cost me a 12 pack.

Your brew? Or just plain beer? I don't know if I would give a 12 of mine.:)
Otis_The_Drunk
05-20-2007, 07:56 PM
Yeah it was mine.... It was hard, but the need for a kettle overroad the need for the 12 pack. I can always make more beer with the new kettle.
CampAjohn
05-20-2007, 08:59 PM
Brad, did you cut the chime, "skirt" off the bottom of the keg? If so, what is your reason for that...maybe I should too!
B_rad1969
05-20-2007, 10:27 PM
I cut the bottom off because the kettle sat closer to the flame. With it on it was too far away. With it on I can see it possibly dissipating heat too. Mabey not too. Depends on how you look at it. It could contain the flame better though. I would have to say leave it on if the kettle is close enough to the flame.
barleyburps
05-21-2007, 01:35 AM
Your brew? Or just plain beer? I don't know if I would give a 12 of mine

I think that's a bargain for a permanent upgrade, I probably would have given them a case.
BrewDog
05-21-2007, 11:35 AM
Paying for welding can be EXPENSIVE. A 12 pack of home brew is an INVESTMENT. You will recoup your 12 pack many, many, MANY times over with the use of the equipment. Not to mention that the guy will be there for you for other welding services in the future.


B_rad- can you post a pic of the results?
takhsh
05-21-2007, 12:00 PM
Originally posted by B_rad1969
I cut the bottom off because the kettle sat closer to the flame. With it on it was too far away.

I do not agree that by cutting off the bottom you will get better heat utilization. The rim all around it actually contains the flame/ heat better. Although indeed it is farther away of the rim with the bottom not cut off, it is worse off from the heat transfer.
Mad Scientist
05-21-2007, 01:02 PM
And you also run a higher scorching risk...
B_rad1969
05-21-2007, 05:54 PM
Pics
B_rad1969
05-21-2007, 05:54 PM
pic2
B_rad1969
05-21-2007, 05:55 PM
Pic3
CampAjohn
05-21-2007, 07:05 PM
Looks good, Brad. I was assuming it was a Sanke keg. Yours looks like a Hoff-Stevens keg with chimes...never seen one like that. You did a nice job on the top. I went through 12-15 sabre saw blades and the opening runs off the line a half inch in a couple areas. The important thing is you have a much larger boil kettle for the Big Brew!
B_rad1969
05-21-2007, 08:52 PM
I have a 10gal. boil pot also. I like the keg better.
barleyburps
05-21-2007, 09:58 PM
. . .you're going to have some happy neighbors eventually. . .
Powhatan
06-07-2007, 09:58 PM
For my converta-keg, originally it had the drain welded at the bottom. Without a straining device - all the trub was problematic.

I traded it back in for one where the drain was right above the weld seam... that resulted in an estimated 1-1.5gal that got left behind. That definitely screwed with my efficieny, but ensured i left the junk behind (I like to use whole hops). So... I took my BFH and converted my concave bottom to convex. I estimate that I went from 1.5 gal to .5 gal loss.

Something to think about...
Powhatan
06-07-2007, 09:58 PM
For my converta-keg, originally it had the drain welded at the bottom. Without a straining device - all the trub was problematic.

I traded it back in for one where the drain was right above the weld seam... that resulted in an estimated 1-1.5gal that got left behind. That definitely screwed with my efficieny, but ensured i left the junk behind (I like to use whole hops). So... I took my BFH and converted my concave bottom to convex. I estimate that I went from 1.5 gal to .5 gal loss.

Something to think about...
B_rad1969
06-08-2007, 07:43 AM
I attached a drain tube to the valve with some holes drilled in the end. I put a screen over it also. When I tilt the keg backwards, a siphon is created and I only leave a couple of table spoons. Slow but works well!
takhsh
06-08-2007, 08:12 AM
Mine also has the spigot above the seam. Sth spigot outlet is below the bottom of the keg. As a result it does create a siphon, and without tillting the keg, I do get everthing out except the thick slurry that wet the hops leaves. My strainer is a slotted half an inch copper tubing. I found that I can only use leaf hops (which I prefer anyway).