Cutting a sanke keg

[HogieWan]

I've secured a sanke keg to use in my system. My MLT keg will become the HLT (which is a position occupied by a rectangular cooler now) and the new one will get the full treatment and become my new MLT. The first step is cutting a hole in the top of the keg. I'm asking how to do it myself, though, in the end, I may get someone with a plasma cutter to do it.

I know this has been discussed before, but I've searched for a while and not found anything. Please help

[Jack166s]

I used a 4 1/2" grinder w/cutoff wheel. Riped right thru it then just grind the edges a little so it is not so sharp. Make sure to fill keg with water so it is not so loud when cutting.
Jack

[kujo]

I have a sawzall, and I went and bought 5 metal cutting blades. I drilled a hole in the top to use as a starting point, and then put the sawzall to work. It's ugly, and you might go through a couple of blades per vessel doing it, but it works.

[HogieWan]

good call on the water

[kujo]

yeah - good call. I didn't fill my kegs with water. It was freakin' loud.

[Mill Rat]

I prefer my cutting torch. Nothing to wear out. But it is absolutely necessary to fill the keg pretty close to the top with water, as the spatter will stick tenaciously to the inside of the keg.

[hockeynut]

I used a dremmel and about 10 of the HD cut off wheels. Worked well, took about an hour. Not much to grind off once the top was out either.

I will have to try the water in the keg as it left my ears ringing for quite a while.

[Otis_The_Drunk]

I just take mine to the local welding shop and have them use a plasma cutter and cut the lid out, 3 minutes, done.
All you have to do after that is get a flappy wheel and sand down the sharp edges.

I trade beer for the work.

[paulcgi]

I'll second the welding shop option. I have kegs I did, and kegs done by "pros" with plasma. Night n Day difference. the cut left by that plasma is so much nicer. and usually for a few beer "samples" extra they'll drill some holes for you for the fittings .. water in the keg is a really good idea too. Just bring a coupling with you or drill a small hole in the top as most places will want guarantees that there is no pressure in the keg before they start cutting

[raedan]

Hi, I'm not sure if the keg you are talking about is stainless steel which I'm sure most keg are made from. If you know a plumber or can get your hand on a nibbler which cuts through sheet iron that would do the job I'm sure and leave no burrs. The only reason it wouldn't do it if the keg was over 2mm thick. I know the nibbler I have cuts stainless steel up to 2mm. Hope you get it done.:D

[Magnew]

Sawzall with a metal blade. I only used two blades. Took about 15-minutes. Then I smoothed with a file and some wet/dry metal sandpaper, fine grit, like you would use doing body work on a car. Smooth as can be. Very nice.

[HogieWan]

magnew - you're description is what I was thinking of doing, but I wanted to know what others have done.

Paul - I have the valve removed, so there is absolutely no pressure.

[CampAjohn]

IMHO Otis has the approach: let your local welding shop or a friend with a plasma cutting outfit do it. I went through $10-15 of bimetal blades trying to use my little sabre saw. Poor choice of tools, but it is what I had...

[paulcgi]

just read your reply hogiewan.. my last keg my neighbor and I did with a sawzall. It helps to have somebody help you. They can hold the keg steady while you cut. mark your cut with a heavy pencil and off you go. but be prepared beforehand and have a pile of blades ready. We went through 6 cutting my last keg.
the blades get cherry hot while you are cutting, and we only got about 5 inches per blade. After that all the teeth were gone and most of the blade was too.
also, as Norm would say: "wear ear and eye protection"
it is insanely loud when you cut. your ears will ring for days if you don't (dont ask me how I know this ;-(

[HogieWan]

yep - sounds like I'll just find someone to do the job

[HarkJohnny]

be sure to let ALL of the pressure out before you pull the retaining ring out!!!

[Quin]

Originally posted by paulcgi
...the blades get cherry hot while you are cutting, and we only got about 5 inches per blade. After that all the teeth were gone and most of the blade was too.

Try slowing down. Hard to do with a sawzall. Easier with a jigsaw. The blades are losing their temper. Also use some kind of cooling oil.

[hooky]

I'm getting ready to convert a couple of kegs for an HLT and MLT. I'm planning on laying it on it's side, relieving the pressure, drilling a hole in the top with a step bit, filling it with water and then cutting the top off with a plasma cutter. If I didn't have access to a plasma cutter, I'd go with millrat's hot blade method.

[Magnew]

So I just this minute finished cutting the top off anther keg with a sawzall. I don't know what y'all are talking about with going through so many blades etc. I took maybe 20-minutes and went through 3 blades. The main reason I took three blades is that I kept bending them up to the point that I couldn't keep them in the groove. They were all still cutting just fine.

[Jared]

I've helped many a homebrew club member with this.

I'll I do is tilt the keg on it's side and depress the ball valve with a screw driver to relive pressure and not spray old nasty beer all over. I then get the retaining ring out and remove the spear. Fill almost full with water. Plasma cut the spear bung out. this leaves a nice flat surface to draw a circle or to cut or place a lid on and trace\scribe a line so the lid fits nice. I then plasma cut just a skosh (1\16th'') from the line. I then grind (right angle grinder 4.5'') to my line with a medium grit flap disk. The flap disk gets most all the edge with out too much trouble. With this method I am able to make lids fit perfect and have baby butt smooth edges.(very important since you will be reaching into this thing quite often).

If drilling any holes in it, I would suggest placing the hole for a spigot inbetween the drain holes of the "skirt". (don't put it above a hole or it will get licked by flames from your burner) and make sure the edge of the hole will be a good 3\4'' above the skirt weld. this will allow proper placement(a nice and flat area for the o-ring) for a weldless kit. Also Bi-metal hole saws of moderate quality will do the job just fine if lubricated with cutting wax or wd-40.

I do all my stainless welding with a MIG welder. This method is not as nice and neat as tig welding but serves the purpose just fine on the "hot" side. Don't be concered about "sanitary welds" While on the hot side. The boil will kill everything living in your brew pot.

These are just my experiences and Opinions I feel this is a good method of doing things. and hope it gives others some more info about he proccess.

JARED

edited for grammar (or lack there of)

[Mad Scientist]

Originally posted by Jack166s
I used a 4 1/2" grinder w/cutoff wheel. Riped right thru it then just grind the edges a little so it is not so sharp. Make sure to fill keg with water so it is not so loud when cutting.
Jack

While already noted, I will second eye and ear protection. You might want to consider eye protection that is a bit shaded, as things can get bright. I have always use a grinder with a cut off wheel.

[HogieWan]

Originally posted by HarkJohnny
be sure to let ALL of the pressure out before you pull the retaining ring out!!!

I did exactly what Jared suggested - I turned the keg on it's side and pushed the valve open (I used the butt end of a ratchet).

[CampAjohn]

Sorry I didn't recall this right away...Hogie has probably mortgaged his house to the welding shop by now...

This article is quite thorough, from 1994 "Brewing Techniques" magazine, but now hosted on RealBeer...

http://www.brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.2/manning.html