Help me with new keg setup

[OKBrew]

I'd made mention to my wife about going to a kegging setup for my home brew and that I'd found a kegerator conversion kit (minus bottle) for about $110 bucks. Today was my birthday and she said she didn't quite know what to get so she handed me $150 bucks and told me to get what I wanted.

I've been looking at BeverageFactory.com's website (obtained link from here) and have selected the following items:

10 lb. Aluminum Co2 Tank
Premium Grade Double Gauge Co2 Regulator [MM 642]
5 Feet of 5/16” ID Air Line Assembly [BF ALA516-5]
Ball Lock Home Brew Keg Tap Complete Set [BF BLCP-CS]
5 Feet of 3/16” ID Beer Tubing Assembly [BF BLA316-5]
5 1/8” Long Shank with Nipple Assembly [BF SHANK5]
Gold Plated SS Faucet with Stainless Steel Lever (BLING!)
6" Stainless Steel Wall Mount w/Drain [FX 11F09-118]
No Cleaning Kit Added [KU NCK]

I have over/under freezer/fridge in the garage that I'm storing my bottled beer in. I was thinking about dedicating half of the fridge side to 2 kegs. I have 25" of height in the fridge with the bottom shelf still installed. I have 14" of width and 20" depth. Will this accomodate two 5 gals and a 10lb tank?

If I pressurize two kegs can I "hot swap" the lines if I want to dispense one or the other?

How long will this 10lb tank last while being used with 5 gal cornies?

When we move we'll buy a new fridge for the kitchen and I'll have two garage fridges and at that time I can dedicate this fridge to all kegs (and those beer taps in the kitchen wall, heeheh)

Help! I'm ready to click the Add to Cart button!

[corkybstewart]

Lots of questions here. Kegs are 9" in diameter so you should easily fit 4 in this fridge. The bottle is not big, but as soon as you attach the regulator, the damn thing needs twice the space. Drill a hole and leave the bottle outside. Put a "T" or a manifold and 2 faucets so you don't have to switch between kegs, you just have to decide what you feel like drinking at any given moment.
As far as how long will a bottle of CO2 last, who knows? I've had bottles last more than a year, and then I added a keg with a bad O-ring and the bastard was empty the next day-so was the keg.
To safely drill a hole in a fridge, drill a 1/4 inch hole through the outer skin, but no deeper, Take a probe of some sort and be sure there are no wires or tubing(Freon) where you want to drill. Some people use the door of the fridge since there are no working components but to me that's the easy way out. If you find there is nothing but insulation, use a hole saw to drill out the required hole and once your hose is installed, caulk to seal the hole. Using this method I was able to drill holes for 3 taps and the CO2 line without damaging the working parts of the fridge. BTW, my beer fridge is going on 7 years of operation for me.

[danno]

get your co2 tank locally, most places only swap tanks, not fill them, so odds are you'll be trading in that shiny brand new tank for an old filled steel one... might as well save your money and buy the old filled steel one locally...

[OKBrew]

Good info there guys.

I do have a local shop that will refill bottles, but I suppose I could save some money by "renting" a tank and refilling/exchanging it.

I'm pretty much forced to put my taps in the door because of the orientation of my fridge...but I like the idea of going ahead and getting a T and an extra tap and setting up for two.

I'll post pics when I get it put together!

Thanks!

[zoom6zoom]

I have to agree on getting your cylinder locally. Just make sure they show you the certification date, as these need to be retested every five years. I just paid $55 for a full cylinder with 4 1/2 years left on it; since they charge $15 to refill, that puts my cost for the tank itself at forty bucks. Can't see paying full price for a shiny new tank that's gonna hide in the freezer anyway, and as some said, possible be lost in an exchange.

[corkybstewart]

Don't rent a tank. Buy it outright. Here tank rental was $40 per year, but to buy one was only $75, less than 2 years rent.

[djaychris]

You are gonna love kegging.....I took that step like 5 months after I began homebrewing, and I never looked back.


-Dan

[OKBrew]

Do I need food grade Co2?

[corkybstewart]

Originally posted by OKBrew
Do I need food grade Co2?

Short answer is no. I don't even know where you would go to find food grade gasses. I've been buying regular CO2 from the welding shop forever and have never had a problem

[OKBrew]

I'm having a tough time finding a shop that wants to sell a tank (50#). They'll rent em for .14 cents a day ($51 a year roughly) and refill for $15. I guess I'll have to go that route until I can find one to buy.

Thanks for the info!

[HogieWan]

Originally posted by OKBrew
I'm having a tough time finding a shop that wants to sell a tank (50#). They'll rent em for .14 cents a day ($51 a year roughly) and refill for $15. I guess I'll have to go that route until I can find one to buy.

Thanks for the info!

if they refill on-site, you can buy a nice AL tank and know it won't get swapped out. Also - check ebay.

[OKBrew]

I would like to do the 50# aluminum tank ($249 without shipping) but that plus all the other stuff I need is going to put me over $500.

I'm going to just rent a tank for now...$51 a year really isn't that bad...and I'll keep my eye out for a tank I can buy in the meantime.

[MikShau]

Do they have anything smaller? A 50 # tank will push a LOT of beer and make your keg area look like a welding shop.

[OKBrew]

My keg area is in the garage anyways...

[corkybstewart]

Unless I do something stupid like not replacing an oring, my 20 pound tank will last over a year, and that's carbonating the 6 kegs and pushing the beer. And it only costs $10 to fill.

[OKBrew]

Too much is never enough, right?

[OKBrew]

OK I just placed my order...and I went ahead and bought the 20# aluminum tank.

I guess I better buy some kegs off Ebay.

I saw a link on here a while back about somewhere you can buy the seals in bulk for a few bucks. Anyone have it off the top of their head? (I've read your leak stories Corky)

[corkybstewart]

I think it's McMaster Carr. I've never bought from them but I've seen their website. If I'm wrong someone will correct me.

[Jared]

I get my 5# tank filled at the local paintball gun store for 8 bucks. Best deal in town. the welding supply shop wants 23.00 w swap\out. A 50# tank with no leaks should last at least a few years pushing beer. after all you can get 5-8 kegs on a 5# tank. depending on how much is wasted in purging and what not.

for the kegs I would get some professionly rebuilt ones that are of a modern vintage. I purchased an older firestone keg off of craigslist. I am having a helluva time finding poppets and orings rumaging the local o-ring dealer. I would have been much better off purchasing a newly rebuilt used one for around 35-40 bucks. and not have to worry about it for a long time.

just my 2cents

[danno]

Originally posted by corkybstewart
I think it's McMaster Carr. I've never bought from them but I've seen their website. If I'm wrong someone will correct me. you're right on. look at the bottom of this thread... (http://www.realbeer.com/discussions/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2550&highlight=mcmaster)

[OKBrew]

My stuff will be here next Tuesday (I hate ordering from California).

Thanks for everyones help!

[Fir Na Tine]

I've got a 20# cylinder that I've had for 8 years now, still full. I've run probably upwards of 30-35 kegs through it. A lot of those being 16 gallon commercial stuff.

Try this link for an approximate number of kegs you can get out of a cylinder:

http://www.micromatic.com/category.aspx?cid=87#12.__Q._How_many_kegs_of_beer _can_be_dispensed_out_of_a_CO2_tank_

These numbers don't take into account purging, force carbing, or the problem that seems to plaque us all at one time or another (at least it seems) and that is leaky kegs/regulators/connections.

Try going to a local fire extinguisher supplier. They will often fill the cylinder for you versus a welding shop swapping it.

My local welding shop I have a connection there. I can swap my cylinder without getting dinged for it being "out of date" on the hydrostat test - which it currently is.

Congratulations on getting into kegging.

I'd do what has been mentioned regarding drilling your hole(s) in the fridge - start with a small bit. Drill til you're through the first layer, then use a small piece of wire to check for freon lines. Nothing there, drill away. I only suggest trying it from the inside. If you screw up, I find it easier to hide a drill hole with silicone on the inside.

[OKBrew]

The way my fridge is situated I'm going to have to drill the front door.

I was hoping at least my kegs would show up today but no deal. I wanted to get this Stout in there and carbonating so next week when I get my stuff I could fill my bottle, hook up and consume.

Oh what the hell, I have about 6 cases of brew, I'll just pop a top and wait!

[Jared]

the smallest leak will make 5# of gas go away quicker than you can buy it. I had a full tank when I first started and due to A leak I lost half of it in a little over 24 hours. that would suck to lose 50# of the stuff $$$$$

[OKBrew]

Kegs are here, #20 bottle is filled ($9) and I have an Irish Stout ready in secondary.

Can anyone guess what I'm doing tonight?

[Jared]

Are you gonna force carb? Crank regulator up to 30psi. and lay keg on it's side Hooked up of course!)(gas post side up) rock keg violently for about 20 minutes or until the regulator stops hissing. Stand upright let settle for a few minutes (if you can Wait that long) and pour a beer! This early in the procces the beer is like the beer that would come out of a beer engine. it is realy quite smooth!

everytime I do this I'm amazed I'm drinking beer that was in the fermentor just a few minutes before:D

I love kegs!

[poolshark021]

I have a couple of questions for you guys. I have all my supplies for a 2 tap keggerator, and I just brewed a batch yesterday that will be my first kegged batch. First, is there any downside to force carbonating? Does the beer still need to condition in the keg (not for carbonation, but for taste/smoothness)? Second will the o-rings from mcmaster-carr (linked from the other thread) fit on a pin lock style keg as well?

[OKBrew]

I'm doing a "dry" run tonight with water.

Making sure my fittings and such aren't leaking and get an idea of how long it takes to carbonate a liquid. I'm sure the liquid density (water vs beer) will effect the absorbtion time but it oughta be close.

Is it safe at 30PSI to just cram a OUT post on there with no hose and let it spray out?

[Jared]

Good idea! and good luck.

You will wonder why you did'ntstart kegging earlier!

[barbecuesteve]

50# is WAY overkill!

Most of the kits sell 5# bottles, and I got a 20# because I overdo everything... and at this rate, the 20# will last me about a year.

The 20# is about the size of a corney keg which makes the math about how to fit it into the kegerator a lot easier.

[corkybstewart]

Originally posted by poolshark021
I have a couple of questions for you guys. I have all my supplies for a 2 tap keggerator, and I just brewed a batch yesterday that will be my first kegged batch. First, is there any downside to force carbonating? Does the beer still need to condition in the keg (not for carbonation, but for taste/smoothness)? Second will the o-rings from mcmaster-carr (linked from the other thread) fit on a pin lock style keg as well?

Does it have to condition? Probably not, depending on the style of beer, but it never hurts. My kegs usually end up sitting around at least a month before I tap them, the last couple of weeks with the CO2 turned on.
I'm 99% sure those o-rings will fit. I've never seen other sizes advertised when I buy o-rings online, and all my kegs are pin-lock.

[HarkJohnny]

Originally posted by djaychris
You are gonna love kegging.....I took that step like 5 months after I began homebrewing, and I never looked back.

-Dan

amen brother!

as for your "hot swap" question... I only had one tap through the door and just used Cobra taps (black picnic style taps) and left them inside. that way you don't mix beer.

[OKBrew]

Here's a fairly 'wierd' question...

My wife is more apt to drink beer if it is on tap. She isn't real keen on many of the home brews. What is the possibility (and the best way) to get bottled brew into one of these kegs so she can pull a glass off the tap?

[corkybstewart]

It really can't be done without messing up the beer. But with a little effort(maybe a lot of effort) you can develop a beer your wife will like. That's what I did with my Wife Beer recipe. She's not normally a beer drinker, but that one she loves.

[Jared]

My homebrew club one time took a commercial keg of beer and put it in cornies! cause no one had a co2 ready sankey Tap!

gots to do what ya gots do to drink beer.

[danno]

Originally posted by OKBrew
What is the possibility (and the best way) to get bottled brew into one of these kegs so she can pull a glass off the tap? um, don't bottle it in the first place?

[OKBrew]

Originally posted by danno
um, don't bottle it in the first place?

Um, the beer she likes isn't homebrew. My idea is maybe this will somewhat transition her to homebrew a little easier.

[barbecuesteve]

Copy it.

[Otis_The_Drunk]

Originally posted by OKBrew
Um, the beer she likes isn't homebrew. My idea is maybe this will somewhat transition her to homebrew a little easier.

What is her favorite beer?
We may be able to come up with something similar.

[OKBrew]

Shiner Bock and Sam Adams Pale Ale...she doesn't like dark beers and hates anything with a strong hops flavor.

[Fir Na Tine]

Originally posted by OKBrew
Shiner Bock and Sam Adams Pale Ale...she doesn't like dark beers and hates anything with a strong hops flavor.

Try brewing her a cream ale. I made one and my wife loves it. But she also loves Guinness.

Seriously though, the cream ale is light colored and very low hops flavor/aroma. My recipe used Willamette. Any low alpha acid hops would suffice.

[barbecuesteve]

I gotta concur on the cream ale. I can't tell you how many times people have said about it "I normally don't like beer, but THIS..."

[OKBrew]

Originally posted by Fir Na Tine
Try brewing her a cream ale. I made one and my wife loves it. But she also loves Guinness.

Seriously though, the cream ale is light colored and very low hops flavor/aroma. My recipe used Willamette. Any low alpha acid hops would suffice.

My wife makes funny faces with Stout....LOL

I will try the Cream Ale though. I have 4 kits in the tube right now though, so I'll brew that once I get these done.

I got kegs to fill ya know!

[OKBrew]

I'm brewing her a Kolsch kit right now from Williams (sure would be nice if they listed the ingredients on the recipe).

And of course I'm having a few sips of Irish Stout from my newly mounted fridge door beer tap.

Life is good.

[Beefsteak]

Question....

I just bought a used Haier kegerator. I can't get any pressure readings on the regulator. The person I bought it from said there was plenty of co2 remaining. Other than the tank being empty, is there anything else that could be wrong?

[Mill Rat]

Take the regulator off the tank. Point the tank outlet away from anything you don't want damaged. Crack the tank valve. If it hisses a little it's close to empty. If it rips off a good snort, you're golden, and you may have regulator issues. Every time you hitch a tank onto a regulator you should do this, so that any grit or dirt that might have found its way into the tank valve body gets blasted across the room instead of into the sensitive innards of your regulator. About the only common gas that this should NOT be done to is acetylene.

[Beefsteak]

Originally posted by Mill Rat
Take the regulator off the tank. Point the tank outlet away from anything you don't want damaged. Crack the tank valve. If it hisses a little it's close to empty. If it rips off a good snort, you're golden, and you may have regulator issues. Every time you hitch a tank onto a regulator you should do this, so that any grit or dirt that might have found its way into the tank valve body gets blasted across the room instead of into the sensitive innards of your regulator. About the only common gas that this should NOT be done to is acetylene.

Thanks. I think mine is empty. I disconnected it from the regulator and opened the tank valve and there was nothing, no co2 escaping at all. Guess it's time for a refill.