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View Full Version : LME or DME for Coopers


tmgrood
12-05-2006, 08:27 AM
I was given a Coopers Autstralian Pale Ale kit from a friend who wants to get me started in my brewing quest. He has brewed a few batches himself using kits.
The question is, he also gave me a 2lb bag of Briess Light Amber DME.
Doesnt the Coopers kit have all I need? He said he adds the DME along with the LME that came with the coopers. Isn't that overkill?
I always thought a kit has everything you need and wouldn't have to add anything else, thats why it's called a Kit.

Daniel James
12-05-2006, 10:50 AM
Many of the older style kits call for a form sugar water to complete their kits to 5 gallons of beer. Your friend is right. Assuming that the coopers can is about 3.5lbs., there will be no harm in adding 2lbs. of DME. The result will be fuller, stronger, and more like a beer than the can recipe. I'm sure that others can provide further specifics, but that should be the jist of it. Cheers.

Mill Rat
12-05-2006, 12:11 PM
Originally posted by tmgrood
I always thought a kit has everything you need and wouldn't have to add anything else, thats why it's called a Kit. If the kit had all you needed, it'd have jugs of water and a small army of sterno cans to boil the wort, too. If this is a single-can kit, it probably asks you to add 2-3 pounds of sugar in addition to the LME in the can. The DME your friend gave you is the right sugar to use for this purpose, and your friend has shown you how to take kit beer from mediocre to very good in a single step. You're friend's got your back. Thank him.

tmgrood
12-05-2006, 12:35 PM
Oh believe me. He told me he is sick of hearing me talk about it and wants me to get started.
You homebrewers are a pretty classy bunch.

Daniel James
12-05-2006, 01:43 PM
Originally posted by tmgrood
You homebrewers are a pretty classy bunch.

I would give it some time before you came to that conclusion. :D

tmgrood
12-05-2006, 02:15 PM
Well.............maybe you're right. hehe.
Hey. I was just online, looking up the kit he gave me and it says its a No Boil kit:
http://www.coopers.com.au/homebrew/makeBeer.php?cid=5&bid=114

Oh man!! Can't I still boil it and add some hops to it?
Hope this doesn't exclude me from the hombrewing bunch.

HogieWan
12-05-2006, 02:50 PM
Originally posted by tmgrood

Hope this doesn't exclude me from the homebrewing bunch.

so, let's see - you're taking a simple kit, adding extract and changing the boil schedule to add aroma hops. I'd say you fit right in. Homebrewing is all about making beer that YOU want to drink.

tmgrood
12-05-2006, 03:04 PM
WhooHoooo!
Thanks.:)

Daniel James
12-05-2006, 04:07 PM
"No boil" kits are mostly still around for for individuals (and others) who brew for economic reasons; it's cheaper and takes less time. However, if you have the time and money to add some fresh ingredients and a one hour boil, I think you will be much happier with the results.

tmgrood
12-05-2006, 04:10 PM
I was thinking of doing that but then I read where boiling a no boil kit could cause carmalization because it's been boiled already.
Of course I am new to this subject so not sure.
I wanted to add some cascade and chinook hops.

Mill Rat
12-05-2006, 04:58 PM
Originally posted by tmgrood
boiling a no boil kit could cause carmalization.

This is a problem? The beer will be a bit darker, but likely taste better. More importantly, you'll have killed off a whole host of little buggers that would want to chow on all those tasty malts sugars before your yeast get the opportunity.

I wanted to add some cascade and chinook hops. Then by all means do so.

tmgrood
12-05-2006, 05:16 PM
Yeah, I wondered about that too.
When not boiling it could make for yucky things munching on my wort.
I always root for the yeast. :D

Daniel James
12-05-2006, 10:12 PM
Originally posted by tmgrood
I was thinking of doing that but then I read where boiling a no boil kit could cause carmalization because it's been boiled already.


Papazian contends that you can reduce carmalization by fashioning an unlacqured coat hanger into a trivet or other barrier between your stove coil and your brewpot. I've never taken him up on this advice, but it sounds like it could be useful.

tmgrood
12-05-2006, 10:17 PM
Actually my wife uses this little metal thingy that is star shaped and looks about the same diameter as a coat hanger.
She places it underneath certain pots so the liquid won't burn.
Sounds like the same thing Papazian was talking about.

De Hooter
12-06-2006, 12:46 AM
Yep, that's the commercial version, well at least the version that is sold.

I've been thinking about using a cast iron skillet as a heat diffuser to reduce carmelization on the bottom of my kettle. Now, I just have to convince SWMBO that we NEED a LARGE cast iron skillet...

Guess I better brush up on my cajun blackening skills...

dparsons
12-06-2006, 02:07 AM
Originally posted by De Hooter
Yep, that's the commercial version, well at least the version that is sold.

I've been thinking about using a cast iron skillet as a heat diffuser to reduce carmelization on the bottom of my kettle. Now, I just have to convince SWMBO that we NEED a LARGE cast iron skillet...

Guess I better brush up on my cajun blackening skills...

There are cast iron heat distribution devices made for the purpose.

Mill Rat
12-06-2006, 07:09 AM
Originally posted by De Hooter
Guess I better brush up on my cajun blackening skills... Unless you've got a very effective range hood, blackening is best done outside, as the smoke tends to be rather intense. I have a cast iron griddle designed to cover two stove burners that fits on one side of my old gas grill. I toss the griddle onto top of the grill grate, light the grill on high and close the cover until it's good and stinking hot (10 minutes). The heat is intense, the smoke thick, the cooking quick, and the blackening outstanding.