Dry yeast question

[MmmBeer]

Do you guys (the dry yeast advocates) usually make a starter or just mix it with some warm water? I'm a little scared to not make a starter, it's like a crutch to me.

[thekulman]

I've always just sprinkled it right on the wort. Once or twice I've re-hydrated it with hot water. I've always had fermentaion in 6 - 12 hrs.

[Grog]

I'm a wort sprinkler too.

[guildofevil]

I always rehydrate and proof the yeast before pitching (when I'm not using saved trub, or pitching right onto a yeast cake). That way, if the yeast is dead, you know about it on brew day and can do something about it immediately. In the case of a bad sachet of yeast sprinkled on top, it gives nasties a chance to establish a foothold in the wort, before you know there is a problem.

Having said that, I have never had a sachet of yeast fail on me, so sprinkling on the wort isn't much of a risk.

Séan

[dancinwillie]

Unfortunately I can't remember where, but I read that you should not make a starter with dry yeast, as it actually my be bad for the yeast. Again sorry I don't remember where I read this, maybe someone else knows if this is true, and if so, why it is true.

[toneyc]

It may have been on this website. I think the guy from Danstar dropped in and either wrote a post on it or pointed us to a webpage. He said that the yeast have nutrients that give them a head start in fermenting and that if you make a starter, you're wasting those nutrients and the yeast don't perform as well.

Edit: oops, in searching, I discovered that it was me that posted this link last December: http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-lalvin/beerfaq.html#rehydrate


:eek:
Toney.

[MmmBeer]

Thank you toney that is exactly what I wanted to know. Looks like the yeast starter is a no-go and rehydration is the way!

[thekulman]

Originally posted by toneyc
Edit: oops, in searching, I discovered that it was me that posted this link last December: http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-lalvin/beerfaq.html#rehydrate
:eek:
Toney.

A very informative article to say the least ... now I will always rehydrate my dry yeast at 105F and cool to wort temps before pitching ... within 30 min. of rehydration.
I didn't know this and I think I've isolated some of the problems I experience to my (now old) practise of sprinkling the dry yeast onto the wort at non-optimal rehydration temps.

Kul

[stardrive]

Great link, it answered a lot of questions I had, however I still have a question or two for you guys. I just purchased a kit (I thought I’d try it), a Dortmunder and assumed (incorrectly it looks like) it would come with a lager yeast. Instead it came with the Danstar Nottingham ale yeast. Can I still use this yeast for my Dort. as a lager yeast? Anyone try this or have experience with it? I planned on re-hydrating it at the 100 -105 F range and let it cool to about 60 F. along with the whort before pitching. Any suggestions?

[thekulman]

Yes, you can use Nottingham for Lager. Here is the website of the manufacturer and a quote regarding this topic:

http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-lalvin/nottingham.html

"Good tolerance to low fermentation temperatures, 14°C (57°F), allow this strain to brew lager-style beer. Recommended 14° to 21°C (57° to 70°F) fermentation temperature range."

Although a tip, don't start fermentation that low - for any Lager yeast. Pitch the yeast when it, and the wort are closer to the high end of the range and when vigorous fermentation starts - then lower it to your 60*F temp.
If you try to start it that low, fermemtation won't take effect fast enough.

I'm currently on a Nottingham kick and plan to use it for all my beers - Ales and Lagers. It's cheap and good and can be re-used 3 times which brings the cost down to less than a buck a brew.

[HogieWan]

Originally posted by toneyc

Edit: oops, in searching, I discovered that it was me that posted this link last December:

It was your original post that turned me into a dry yeast advocate. Properly rehydrated dry yeast has worked VERY well for me lately, but I feel the need to give liquid another go - eventually

[stardrive]

Thanks thekulman,
That's what I needed to know, I plan on giving it a try this weekend.

[JohnnyV]

I just tried my first brew that was made from a dry yeast - Safale US-56. I'm VERY impressed with the result and the yeast profile

[Spicoli]

Originally posted by JohnnyV
I just tried my first brew that was made from a dry yeast - Safale US-56. I'm VERY impressed with the result and the yeast profile


I just brewed last Saturday and used this yeast for the first time. I brewed a DUB-IPA that was at 1.075. I made a starter on Wednesday and bumped it up on Friday. I then pitched around 1:00 P.M. Saturday while the yeast was still fermenting and it took off like a rocket. I had to install a blow off the next morning.

I usually use Smack Packs but my LHBS guy told me he brewed a batch and pitched the 1056 in one carboy and the US-56 in the other and they performed equally as good. (flavor and all) So why not save the money?? So far I am inpressed.

[BitterRat]

Originally posted by thekulman
Yes, you can use Nottingham for Lager. Here is the website of the manufacturer and a quote regarding this topic:

http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-lalvin/nottingham.html

"Good tolerance to low fermentation temperatures, 14°C (57°F), allow this strain to brew lager-style beer. Recommended 14° to 21°C (57° to 70°F) fermentation temperature range."

Although a tip, don't start fermentation that low - for any Lager yeast. Pitch the yeast when it, and the wort are closer to the high end of the range and when vigorous fermentation starts - then lower it to your 60*F temp.
If you try to start it that low, fermemtation won't take effect fast enough.

I'm currently on a Nottingham kick and plan to use it for all my beers - Ales and Lagers. It's cheap and good and can be re-used 3 times which brings the cost down to less than a buck a brew.
Well, you might use Nottingham for lager, but there is no way I would. It is an ale yeast, it may give lager like results, meaning a clean fermentation, but it will not give a true lager. Lager yeast continues to work in very cold temps, most are suggested for temp ranges from 44-55ºF, not starting at 57ºF and up.And lagering takes place from 32-40ºF, Nottingham would simply dropout of suspension at those temps. This yeast will give something like Wy1007, but that is not lager yeast either. You might say pseudo lager for these.
As for starting lagers at low temps, Chris White of White labs doesn't see any gain in starting high and lowering the temp later. If you use enough yeast, it really makes no difference, wether you make ale or lager, hence the purpose of using starters for many yeasts. Not the best idea with dry yeast according to that article, but then you should use 2 pkts of dry if you start at a lower temp.

[HogieWan]

You can get two different SAFlager strains. I used one on my Vienna Lager and Grog can attest to the flavor profile.

Also, lager yeast can eat more kinds of sugar than ale yeast. I think this is what gives true lager a difference