Kit and such

[Enjoiskater]

well,I went the homebrew shop and picked up a kit

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/enjoiskater191/DCP_0003.jpg

which also came with:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/enjoiskater191/DCP_0004.jpg

The Brew shop guy forgot to put in the malt extract:(
but he called me and told me to pick it up tommorow(they had already closed for the day)

My First Ever brew shall be:

Classic Nut Brown Ale

2 Cans light malt extract
1 1/2 pounds crystal malt
3 oz Chocolate malt
3 oz Roasted Barley
4 ounces Malto dextrin
2 ounces of Fuggles Hops
1/2 Oz Kent Goldings Hops(finishing)
1 whirls-floc tablet
1 pack of Whyeast Liquit 1028-London Ale
3/4 Cup Dextrose for Priming

OG:1.055
FG:1.015
ABV:5.3%
IBU's:23
(i have no idea what these mean so if someone could please tell me that would be awesome)

also theres a few things that confuse me
Here they are:
The hops chart says to add the Goldings after the boil..Yet the instructions dont say anything about adding them..When should i add them.

another things is that i have 3/4 cup of dextrose for priming
AND 4 ounces of Malto Dextrin that says to add before bottling for more Body,i thought that thats what the 3/4 Dextrose was for..

If anyone can help that'd be great

Thanks
Pete

[gone_fishing]

Sounds good!
OG=Original gravity This is the specific gravity before fermenting

FG=final gravity. This is the gravity after fermenting is complete (though in the ales I've been doing it doesn't change much after the primary, so that's generally the FG I use.

Basically, OG is an indicator of how much sugar is in the wort, FG is after that sugar has become alcohol. You can compare the two numbers to get your alcohol %
(I donn't know the formula.. I cheat and use the calculator in Promash)

ABV= alcohol by volume

IBU= International bitterness units A measure of the bitterness from the hops. THere is also a HBU scale you sometimes see.

Follow the hops chart, that additon is for aroma

Malto Dextrose goes in the brew when you make it... dextrose goes in the bottling bucket when you bottle. This is what gives the yeasties enough food to produce the CO2 which crbonates it/

How'd I do, gang?

[Grog]

OG = Original Gravity. It's how we know how much sugar the is in solution before fermentation.

FG = Finishing Gravity. It tells us how much sugar was consumed during fermentation.

ABV = I know you know what this means ;)

IBU = Int'l Bittering Units. How bitter your beer will be. It means nothing unless you have something to compare it to. Find some IBU data from some of the commercial beers you like to drink and you will have a pretty good grasp for what to expect.

Finishing hops go into the brew pot as soon as you kill the heat.

The maltodextrin should go into the boil in the last 15 min. IMHO, but I am no expert as I have been away from extract brewing for 8+ yrs.

The dextrose is to provide the yeast enough food to carbonate your beer, the maltodextrin is <20% fermentable which is why it will add body to the brew.

Good luck on your new adventure and report back with the results please.

[Grog]

Originally posted by gone_fishing
How'd I do, gang?

I'd say you passed with flying colors :D !

BTW - The formula for determining ABV is:

OG minus FG mulitplied by 105 (ABW) multiplied by 1.25 (ABV).

(1.055 - 1.013) * 105
.042 * 105
4.41 ABW

4.41 * 1.25
5.51% ABV

From Al Korzonas' Homebrewing Vol. 1

[Enjoiskater]

that info REALLY helps,thanks alot

but i have ONE more question

The recipe from the Brew shop says to ferment for 7-10 days,whereas everything ive read online says to ferment for 2-3 weeks????? all these different instructions are confusing hahaha

[toneyc]

The 7-10 days is a minimum. Most of us leave the beer in the primary bucket for about 7 days, then transfer it to a second bucket for a week or two for aging and clarification. It gives you clearer, better tasting beer. It just takes a lot of patience.

I am a proponent of the 1-2-3 method, 1 week in primary, 2 weeks in secondary, and 3 weeks in the bottle before serving.

:)
Toney.

[Vienna Lager]

I'm with Toneyc on the 1-2-3 method.

It is wise to start off with good habits which lead to good beer.

[Mad Scientist]

Agreed as well, try the 1-2-3 method.

Start the habitnow of racking to secondary as well. they are not ex[pensive. you beer will be much better if you do a secondary.

[Derekt2]

Originally posted by Boerne Brew
Agreed as well, try the 1-2-3 method.

Start the habitnow of racking to secondary as well. they are not ex[pensive. you beer will be much better if you do a secondary.

I'm also a fan of the 1-2-3 Method: One day in the primary, two days in the secondary, three days in the keg and whammo! beer's on tap boys! And you don't even need to prime it b/c of the remaining reducing sugars. <g>

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donning asbestos undies and diving into the bunker <g>.

[JohnnyV]

Originally posted by Boerne Brew
Start the habitnow of racking to secondary as well. they are not ex[pensive. you beer will be much better if you do a secondary.

So very true. I picked up a 5 gallon glass carboy from my LHBS for 14 bucks - cheapest peice of equipment that lead to the biggest improvement in my beer!

[Mad Scientist]

Originally posted by JohnnyV
cheapest peice of equipment that lead to the biggest improvement in my beer!

Very true, I never considered that $$$part of it.....

[Mad Scientist]

Originally posted by Derekt2
I'm also a fan of the 1-2-3 Method: One day in the primary, two days in the secondary, three days in the keg and whammo! beer's on tap boys! And you don't even need to prime it b/c of the remaining reducing sugars. <g>

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donning asbestos undies and diving into the bunker <g>.

Laughing so hard I can't lob anything back....:D